BACKGROUND
Easy to spot with its balconies adorned with red awnings and pots of crimson geraniums, the Plaza Athénée originally opened in 1913. In the early noughties, it became part of the Dorchester Collection of luxury hotels and, last year, reopened after a €200 million restoration and expansion project that saw the addition of a ballroom and 14 new bedrooms, as well as a sparkling new look for the existing interiors. (It closed in October 2013.)
THE RESTAURANT
A little less formal than the glitzy Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Le Relais Plaza, which arrived in 1936 and has hosted stars such as Lauren Bacall and Ava Gardner, is described as a “chic grill room”. According to Dorchester Collection: “Under the direction of Bruno Moinard, Le Relais Plaza’s refurbishment predominantly consisted of redecorating a few elements of the restaurant such as the lampshade, crafted in folds of fibrous plaster, as well as the furnishings and the newly extended bar area.”
Headed up by Werner Kuchler, the restaurant manager, and chef Philippe Marc, Le Relais Plaza is an elegant ground-floor venue with frosted glass windows that mean outsiders can’t see in. Inside, though, it is great for people-watching: the anniversary seniors holding hands over starched linen; the businesswoman eating open-mouthed and alone; groups of giggling girls dressed up to the nines; and waiters with trolleys carving up fish, cutting off the heads.
There are parties of men in smart suits, and a family with a little girl hugging a Micky Mouse. A member of staff has bought her mother a low stool for her Chanel clutch. It’s wonderfully Parisian. There are cream leather banquettes, flickering candles and pink orchids, warm reflections in mirrored walls and the sound of a pianist playing familiar love songs. The conversation moves in waves around the room – a soothing indiscernible kind of noise – interrupted only by the clink of a glass.
THE FOOD
My companion, LJ, and I were seated at a corner table near the door, allowing for great views around the room. We were welcomed with a chilled glass of champagne and a couple of utterly moreish choux pastry puffs, warm from the oven. Then there was an amuse bouche of guacamole tart, and freshly baked bread rolls with salted butter. Simple pleasures…
Being a brasserie, meat features quite heavily on the menu – there is even a separate booklet on the table called Histoires in Carnées from Alain Ducasse, which aims “not to encourage the public to eat more meat but to distinguish and promote the very best”. It describes the meat served on the premises (Axuria milk-fed lamb, Mulard duck, Noir de Bigorre Gascon pork), where it is from in France and even who farmed it, with an illustration of their smiling face.
Dishes “from the farm” includes favourites such as steak tartare (€38), grilled Black Angus sirloin steak (€48) and veal escalope Viennese style (€48), while “from the sea” encompasses sole meunière (€72), anglerfish osso-buco (€46) and 30g of Cristal Gold caviar for €180.
I wanted something fresh and light to start, so opted for a heritage tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad, while my companion had delicate slices of Brittany artichokes with lamb’s lettuce and truffled vinaigrette. Other options were white asparagus from the Vaucluse region in a creamy hollandaise sauce, king crab with grapefruit and quinoa, and duck foie gras.
For the main, neither of us could resist the black truffle risotto, with which the sommelier recommended a bottle of the 2010 Domaine Gravette, Chateauneuf du Pape. The dish was rich and luscious, but overwhelmingly cheesy, detracting somewhat from what was left of the aroma of the truffle (which was not shaved at the table). At €72, it wasn’t cheap, either.
The risotto was still delicious, though, and of a good consistency, but I sadly couldn’t finish it (I shouldn’t have eaten all the bread). On the side, we had the “cook pot” of vegetables, although the waiter couldn’t tell us if the chopped up brown bits were nuts or mushrooms. (They were mushrooms.)
To finish, it was salted butterscotch “religieuse” (€18) – a cool, creamy confection, perfectly formed and topped with gold leaf – and soft chocolate cake. This came in a glass orb with a chocolate lid that had to be melted with a small jug of hot chocolate sauce.
VERDICT
After almost eight decades in operation, Le Relais Plaza has become adept at creating a mood of exclusivity, with prices to keep out the riff-raff. Unlike in London, which is seeing the stripping away of white linen tablecloths, the dining experience is formal, with waiters in white jackets eagerly topping up your glass and presenting dishes with a flourish. The food is refined but not to the point that you can’t stick your fork in and enjoy a good mouthful. And I was impresed by the care taken over the provenance of the meat. An excellent choice for business gatherings.
- OPENING HOURS 12pm-2.45pm, 7pm-11.30pm
- PRICES €48 and €60 set menus; average à la carte meal €90 (not including drinks)
- CONTACT Le Relais, Plaza Athénée hotel, 21 Avenue Montaigne, Paris; +33 153 676 400; dorchestercollection.com
Jenny Southan
