BACKGROUND
The Holborn Dining Room is part of the new Rosewood hotel that opened last October (click here for a review), although the eatery launched a few months later, in February this year.
The “classic British brasserie” is owned by Des McDonald, former chief executive of the Caprice Group and head chef of the Ivy, and the grand, historic venue, which dates back to the early 1900s, was once the East Banking Hall of Pearl Assurance.
The kitchen is headed up by executive chef Lee Bull, who previously worked as the head chef of Le Caprice and Scott’s, while Jon Spiteri (Quo Vadis and St John) is the charismatic head maître d’. Behind the bar is Goran Mulabdic, of Brasserie Zedel and the Ivy.
THE RESTAURANT
The imposing Edwardian Belle Epoque buildings of the Rosewood, just a short walk up the road from Holborn Tube station, are arranged around an elegant courtyard, just off the street. The Holborn Dining Room is at the front, with direct access from the pavement. (On the opposite side of the entrance is the Rosewood’s sumptuously cosy Scarfes bar.)
For me, the interior design of Holborn Dining Room was a standout part of the experience. The smart red leather banquettes and booths, dark wood tables, reading lamps, marble columns, golden lighting and long bar with sit-up crimson stools created an old-school New York vibe. It’s the kind of place you could imagine Don Draper from Mad Men might like. And it’s also proving popular, it would seem, among London’s after-work crowd too, who congregate for lashings of wine and pricey, posh pub grub.
The expansive space can seat more than 180 diners, including an aged copper and patina brass counter for up to 35 people, and the Terrace, where up to 50 people can relax with a drink or cigar outside.
There is also a charcuterie bar with strings of garlic and salami and giant legs of ham hanging from hooks. The Holborn dining room is a sophisticated, modern venue ideal for business people who are bored of fancy plates of Michelin-star haute cuisine.
However, it is not without it’s faults, primarily centering around the service. While waiting staff are friendly and polite, eagerly topping up water glasses and ready to take orders, they don’t quite go the extra mile in the way you might hope from a five-star hotel restaurant.
As a consequence, I left with the impression it was more of a very upmarket diner, rather than a fine-dining establishment. (Not an issue, it’s just a case of managing one’s expectations.)
For example, I ordered a gin and tonic, and despite there being an extensive gin menu of more than a dozen labels (I didn’t notice until after), I wasn’t asked which brand I preferred. I could have enquired, but I didn’t really think of it in the moment, as I had only just sat down and was engaged in conversation with my companion.
A similar thing happened with the wine – we asked for a recommendation, informing the waiter that we were tempted by the 2012 Domaine Colombier Chablis (£41) but as it was a safe bet we would be curious to try something different if he could suggest something.
He obviously didn’t know what to propose, saying “So you like Chardonnay…” and asking “Do you want something French?” We said we didn’t mind, and he paused and then said that the “Chablis is good”. So we went with that.
If there had been a sommelier on site, he didn’t offer to call him or her over. It wasn’t a problem, but these days one is so used to coming across staff who are knowledgeable about wine, it is surprising when you find someone can’t talk you through the winelist.
Overall, I had a thoroughly enjoyable evening, being welcomed by a beaming Jon Spiteri at 7.30pm, and departing at 11.30pm. It certainly is a place you can unwind and sit back.
THE FOOD
The varied menu covers charcuterie, hot and cold counter dishes (most of which are available as both starters and mains), crustacea, “hot kitchen” mains, sides, afters (old fashioned English puddings) and high tea. (You can view it online here.)
I decided to start with the HDR Waldorf salad (£8.75), as I knew the main would be quite filling and didn’t want to spoil my appetite. Curious as to its origins, I Googled “Waldorf salad” on my iPhone and discovered it was created in the late 1800s at the Waldorf hotel in New York, and consisted of apple, celery, mayonnaise and lettuce (the walnuts became a popular addition later).
The HDR version had no mayo or celery, instead incorporating bitter leaves and vinaigrette with finely chopped apple, lightly caremlised walnuts (a welcome note of sweetness) and a few pieces of blue cheese. It was decent enough, though not wildly exciting.
My guest ordered the scallops “a la plancha” on a bed of spiced lentils (£17.50), which he described as “nice” and devoured in a matter of minutes. Other starters that caught my eye included fried squid with Gentleman’s Relish (anchovy paste) mayonnaise (£8.75), griddled prawns with lemon and garlic butter (£15), and chicken salad with avocado and smoked bacon (£9.25).
If you are in to crustacea, you can choose from the likes of mixed oysters (£18.50 for six), shellfish cocktail (£13.50), potted shrimp (£12) and Kings Sturia caviar (£26 for 10g).
For the main, I wanted to sample a true British classic, so went for the fish and chips with mushy peas (£17). The curved fillet came in a beautiful crisp golden batter and was melded in place on the white plate by a smear of mushy peas (I would have like more). A perfect portion of chunky chips came in a pot on the side, as did a ceramic pot of tartar sauce, but Heinz Ketchup arrived in the bottle. (Charming to some, crass to others.) Sadly, I was piecing a slice of lemon to go with the fish.
Mr Morgan had ordered one of the specials – the grass-fed strip loin steak with béarnaise sauce (£28.50), which was disappointingly luke warm. He joked that it was probably because they were waiting for my fish to fry – my plate came out so hot that the waiter had to warn me not to touch it. In actual fact, it took quite some time for the dishes to come out of the kitchen – I think we waited at least 30 minutes for each course so it was a good thing we weren’t in a rush.
Other mains included the Angus beef and stilton pie (£16.50), the smoked haddock with poached egg and mustard sauce (£17.50), Suffolk lamb chops with bubble and squeak (£23.50), the HDR beef burger with club sauce (£13.40) and an obligatory mushroom risotto (£15.50) for vegetarians.
Dessert went down very well – we both went for steamed treacle and whisky pudding with homemade vanilla custard (though the Bakewell tart sounded amazing too), which was exceptional. Even better than how grandma made it.
VERDICT
Had I not loved the glamorous, relaxed dining environment, had such good company and enjoyed my food, I might not have rated the Holborn Dining Room so highly, as there were definite glitches in the experience. But on the night, I felt forgiving, so they weren’t perceived to be problematic. I am not sure my guest was as impressed though, at least with his main. Given the menu is so wide-ranging and the ambiance so inviting, I’d definitely go back. And I think he would too.
FACT FILE
- OPENING HOURS Mon-Fri 7am-11.30pm, Sat 8am-11.30pm, Sun 8am-10.30pm.
- PRICES Charcuterie board £18.50, cold starters £7-£14.50, hot starters £6-£17.50, mains £10.50-£38, desserts £5-£11. Sunday roast set menu £24 (two courses), £28 (three courses). House wine £5 for 125ml glass, £23 for bottle.
- CONTACT Rosewood hotel, 252 High Holborn; tel +44 (0)20 3747 8633; holborndiningroom.com
Jenny Southan
