Restaurant check: 28-50 Maddox Street

28-50 Maddox Street

BACKGROUND
This wine workshop and restaurant is named after the coordinates where most of the world’s vineyards are found. With three locations across London, the venues serve modern European fare alongside an extensive wine list designed to pair with the food.

WHERE IS IT?
We visited the 28-50 on Maddox Street, located off Regent’s Street and five minutes’ walk from Bond and Oxford Street. Other locations are in Marylebone and on Fetter Lane.

THE BAR
As you enter, a zinc-clad champagne bar curves to the right, next to which sit a collection of blue, leather barstools with wine glasses and champagne flutes hanging from a rack above. A row of dark wooden tables extends the length of the restaurant along a wall of exposed brick. The bar’s wine theme is further emphasised by a wall of artisanal wine boxes stacked on an iron frame, enlivened by vintage pendant lights.

The bar is spread across two floors, with the basement level currently decorated with holly wreaths and spruce – aptly named “The Winter Lodge”. There is an impressive wine display lodged next to the open kitchen, which also features a separate bar and glistening glassware.

THE RESTAURANT
It’s a small, cosy space with horseshoe booths and small groups of tables lit by candles. The walls are decked with wreaths of dried orange slices and cinnamon sticks, while large glass vases filled with pinecones and oranges decorate the bar.

28-50 Maddox Street, mulled wine.jpg

During the holiday period, the Winter Lodge has a seasonal bar menu available all day. I sampled the mulled wine, a sharp and tangier version than I’m used to, made without added sugar by the restaurant’s in-house Master Sommelier Clement Robert. To pair with the wine, we opted for a dish of roast chestnuts (£4.50), served warm with a side of smoked cinnamon butter.

We also tried a dish of suckling pork belly bites with cranberry sauce (£6.50) – the crackling was brittle but delicious, and the citrusy mulled wine balanced out the rich slices of pork.

The dishes that we tried were hearty and sufficient for two. Other dishes on the menu include crispy pork crackling (£3.50) and mini bratwurst with sauerkraut and mustard (£6).

28-50 Maddox Street bratwurst

For dessert, there was a selection of chocolate and cinnamon Madeleines with creme anglaise (£6.50) or a large mince pie with baked vanilla custard (£4). We opted for the chocolate Madeleines which came straight out of the oven, served with custard sauce.

THE DRINKS
From the décor to its food pairings, the venue is clearly focused on the wine offering. Though it has a moderately-sized list (30 wines), each wine is available in different glass sizes, (75ml; 125ml; and 250ml), with the price of a bottle starting at £21. The champagne bar has over 40 varieties, four of which are available by the glass, from £10.

There is also a list of seasonal cocktails, offering the classics and a few more unusual sherry and port-based options, such as the PXpresso Martini, made with Pedro Ximenez sherry, espresso and vodka (£9) or the Douro Breeze made with Graham’s Tawny 10-year-old port, amaretto and lemon juice (14.50).

THE SERVICE
Efficient and friendly, staff are knowledgeable about the wine and well-briefed on which dishes will pair well with which wines.

VERDICT
A lovely concept for the festive period and a great after-work drinks or pre-theatre stop thanks to its central location.

  • Opening hours
    12.00 -11pm Mon-Wed, Thurs-Sat 12pm-midnight; closed Sunday. Food is served from 12pm-11pm.
  • Contact
    17-19 Maddox St, Mayfair, W1S 2QH; tel: +44 0207 495 1505; 2850.co.uk/maddox

Annie Harris


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