BACKGROUND Originally a 17th-century palace, the building was the four-star Gladiatori between 2003 and 2009, and then rebranded the Palazzo Manfredi in 2010. Now a five-star property, the Manfredi became part of Relais and Chateaux earlier in 2013 and will see an extensive revamp completed by the beginning of 2014.
WHAT’S IT LIKE? The Palazzo Manfredi is an elegant boutique hotel with superb service. As it’s so small (five floors and 16 rooms) it doesn’t have much in the way of facilities, but its rooftop restaurant is a true highlight as it serves wonderful food and offers unparalleled views of the Colosseum just 190 metres away. Directly in front of the property are the archaeological remains of the Ludus Magnus – the ancient Roman gym where gladiators used to train, with secret passageways that led straight into the stadium.
Upon entering the hotel, a brown leather Chesterfield sofa sits against the back wall of the compact lobby, while the reception desk is to the right and a cozy living room area with bookshelves and a velvet couch is to the left. A tiny lift services the rooms or you can take the stairs.
The renovated rooms are far superior, featuring wooden floors, grey marble bathrooms, mood-lighting and walk-in showers as opposed to more old-fashioned bathrooms and dated classical décor. About half the bedrooms face the Colosseum, while those on the side of the building (above the entrance) can be a bit noisy with the windows open as there can be a lot of traffic.
Staff go out of their way to be helpful and welcoming – I was particularly grateful to them for arranging tickets for me to the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill so that I didn’t have to queue.
WHERE IS IT? On Via Labicana, in full view of the Colosseum. Rome Ciampino airport is 15km away, while Fiumicino airport is 30km.
ROOM FACILITIES I was staying in one of the old-style, standard category Prestige rooms, which was a bit disappointing compared with the new rooms. It wasn’t bad though, just a little outdated, especially the bathroom with it’s brass showerhead and taps, and rickety blinds. The floor was marble throughout, which meant it was cold to walk on, and the colour scheme was slate grey, beige and white, with splashes of red.
All guests get free wifi, a complimentary bottle of prosecco and access to an iPad. Flatscreen TVs, minibars and safes are also provided, and irons/ironing boards on request. There is turndown service in the evening with treats left on the bed. The décor varies from room to room, and some have unique features such as fireplaces.
Revamped rooms have walk-in showers and wardrobe areas that are hidden behind drapes instead of doors, while new suites have vinyl wallpaper, freestanding marble sinks, Philippe Stark audio system and ambient lighting. The top-category Colosseum suite even has a mini gym designed by Citterio and soft furnishings by Missoni.
RESTAURANTS AND BARS On the fifth floor is the rooftop Aroma restaurant and Lounge bar – the former faces the Colosseum, while the latter is at the back of the hotel. Both have glass walls and ceilings, which can be opened when the weather is warm. Between the two is an indoor area where a breakfast buffet is set out in the mornings – choose from salmon, cheese, fruit, pastries (the custard doughnuts are a must), yoghurt, bread and juice. Eggs, tea and coffee are made to order.
I had dinner here one evening as well, and it proved to be one of the high points of my trip, not only because of the picture-perfect setting at sundown, but because of the delicious, creative cuisine. Starters include roasted scallops with mint, fennel fondue and fried leeks (€32); and Zibello ham with fig and goats cheese flans (€30). I went for the courgette and aubergine terrine au gratin – warm, rich and melting with a crispy cheese topping – garnished with a ricotta-filled courgette flower (€28).
Primi piatti included black mezzelune pasta filled with fish ragout, asparagus and coriander (€30); while the secondi piatti di carne menu featured saddle of rabbit served with potato flan and herbs picked from the kitchen garden (€42); and secondi piatti di pesce medallions of monkfish with king prawn heart wrapped in nori (€42).
I chose the medallion of sea bass with an olive, Pachino tomato, oregano and lettuce parcel (€44), followed by the chocolate soufflé (€26) – hot, fluffy and beautifully paired with a glass of 2008 Giovanni Allegrini Recioto della Valpolicella Classico dessert wine, just bursting with black cherries.
A seven-course tasting menu costs €125 (or €195 with wine pairings). The attention to detail and warmth of the service made the experience very special, with staff happy to take time explaining dishes and wines, and making suggestions. Highly recommended.
BUSINESS AND MEETING FACILITIES Private events can be held in the rooftop restaurant and bar, with 40 people seated outside (a glass roof and walls can also be extended) and 20 inside. Alternatively, the entire area can host 90 people for a reception.
LEISURE FACILITIES None. Though the Colosseum suite has gym equipment.
VERDICT With its revamped rooms, stunning rooftop restaurant and views of the Colosseum, the Palazzo Manfredi is a tempting (though expensive) boutique option in the Italian capital.
FACT FILE
HOW MANY ROOMS? There are 12 rooms (25 sqm Prestige, Executive, Deluxe and Master) and four suites (35 sqm Junior, 50 sqm Family, 60 sqm Suite Ludus Magnus and 60 sqm Suite Colosseum).
HIGHLIGHTS Aroma rooftop restaurant, revamped rooms and free wifi.
PRICE Internet rates for a midweek stay in a Prestige room in October started from €480 per night.
CONTACT Via Labicana, 125; tel +39 6775 91380; palazzomanfredi.com
Jenny Southan
