I’m a gold card member of Skywards and use EK at least once a month. The service is indeed very mixed and inconsistent, the food (like most airline food) pretty mediocre.
On the other hand I find the hard product good, the lounges uncrowded, schedules flexible (8 flights a day from London), timekeeping reliable and the fares competitive.
Everyone should of course vote with their feet, however the EK business model clearly works as the flights always seem quite full and Emirates has just announced a profit of $845m for the last financial year compared to losses for many carriers.
As Senator says, SkyTrax isn’t really much of a guide, they were thoroughly discredited last year by the Advertising Standards Authority and I doubt are quoted by anyone (apart from BeckyBoop).