Rich in character and pedigree, heritage hotels serve to keep the allure of travel alive, says Margie T Logarta.

WHO says old is out? People are paying top dollar these days to stay in medieval monasteries and convents, ancient palaces and forts, historical figures’ summer homes and residences. The list of unique accommodation goes on.

After a surfeit of chain hotels, travellers have begun yearning for the out of the ordinary, especially when jumping on a plane has become so commonplace and easy that the prospect of going somewhere no longer thrills as much as it used to.

Since we can’t stand still, nor go radically forward – that is until space journeys are tried and tested – we can at least reach back into our past to a time when life was not so demanding and service ruled by guidelines set by headquarters. Luckily for the romantics among us, there are some things globalisation hasn’t influenced entirely, such as heritage hotels. Abundant in provenance and character, they continue to enrich our travels. We offer some fine examples.

THE ARISTOCRAT

The oldest five-star hotel in London, dating from 1837, Brown’s has just celebrated its year-anniversary after a multi-million-dollar renovation. Now part of the Rocco Forte luxury hotel group, the hotel has 117 rooms including 19 suites in 11 Georgian townhouses right in the centre of Mayfair, well connected with Green Park underground station close by (Piccadilly line down to Heathrow).

The contemporary but classical interior design is by Olga Polizzi (sister of the owner, Rocco Forte), and from the elegant English Tea Room to the late-night Donovan Bar, the hotel is a draw for the surrounding hedge funds and art galleries. The Grill serves a traditional English cuisine.

There are some distinctive meeting and banqueting facilities with six function rooms for up to 120 people, as well as a small spa. This is one of the very best hotels in London: superb service, intimate, but with excellent dining and drinking options, and a location that just can’t be equalled.

RATES: Rooms from US$694.25.

CONTACT: Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4B, UK, tel 44 20 7493 6020; www.brownshotel.com

Tom Otley

ROYAL RESIDENCE

CHAKRABONGSE VILLAS, BANGKOK

One of the unique features of Thailand is that it never experienced being colonised, and this translates into a host of architectural gems free from French, Italian or British influence.

A peek into some of Bangkok’s leafy sois and side streets often unveils a gorgeous period house, but many of them remain at viewing length only, unable to enter, let alone stay for a night.

However, a closer look along the Chao Phraya River reveals a regal residence that basks in the traditions and splendour once linked to the monarchies of Siam and old Russia, dating back to the 19th century or Rattanakosin period.

Chakrabongse House is named after its first resident, HRH Prince Chakrabongse Bhuvanath, the 40th son of King Rama V, who built it in 1908. It was inherited by his daughter, MR Narisa Chakrabongse, who restored it seven years ago and renamed it Chakrabongse Villas.

The intimate property has three choices of elegant accommodation – the Riverside Villa, the Garden Suite or the Thai House – complete with spacious balconies, exquisite tropical gardens and the Riverside Sala restaurant. For dining, orders have to be in by 2pm on the same day so the chef can go shopping for the best ingredients. Such is the individual approach of this hotel – truly a place for connoisseurs of the fine life and Thailand’s colourful past.

RATES: The three residences are available from US$230. A maximum of 80 people can be accommodated for functions.

CONTACT: Along the Chao Phraya River, tel 66 2 224 6686, www.thaivillas.com

David Johnson

THE MUSEUM HOTEL

GRAND HOTEL, TAIPEI

You can almost imagine the Generalissimo (Chiang Kai-shek) and his elegant wife Soong May-ling standing by the entrance beaming as you arrive at their hotel. This palatial structure, after all, was built in the 1950s to accommodate foreign dignitaries and personal guests of the colourful couple.

Boasting what is said to be the world’s largest Chinese classical-style roof and enormous vermillion columns in its vast lobby that could rival those found in any imperial setting, the hotel is an extravagant showcase of Oriental symbolism and grandeur. It contains numerous objets d’art, paintings, carvings and frescos displayed in the public spaces that you wouldn’t be blamed for feeling you had checked into a museum, which it could very well be.

Built on the site of an old Shinto shrine overlooking Keelung River, the hotel commands sweeping views from its guestrooms and restaurants. It was expanded several times before reaching its present size, taking up 9.4ha. The main building was completed on Double Tenth Day in 1973 (October 10, Taiwan’s national day). A disastrous fire in 1995, however, destroyed the hotel’s upper storeys, requiring it to close down for works until 1998 when it reopened.

With 489 spacious guestrooms occupying eight floors (each designated a Chinese dynasty) with the Prestige Rooms for business travellers. A lounge offers breakfast, evening cocktails and a meeting place.

RATES: Rooms start from US$117.23.

CONTACT: 1 Lane 1 Chang Shan N Road, Sec 4, Taipei, Taiwan 104, tel 886 2 2886 8888, www.grand-hotel.org

IMPERIAL RETREAT

HOTEL DU PALAIS, BIARRITZ

Long before tourists lounged around the outdoor heated seawater pool, this 158-room resort, built in 1854, belonged to royalty. Specifically, Napoleon III and his elegant consort and fashion trend setter Eugenie de Montijo, the last Emperor and Empress of the French, who summered regularly here.

Now, it is owned by the city of Biarritz, which tastefully refurbished the former Villa Eugenie, installing modern comforts such as air conditioning and satellite TV.

There are three restaurants on site: La Villa Eugenie for fine dining, the oceanview La Rotonde for lunch and dinner with music, and the informal L’Hippocampe for poolside lunch. Sports enthusiasts can take advantage of facilities such as pools for adults (with cabanas) and children, two beaches and a pitching green. Alternatively, they can go surfing, horseback riding, deep-sea fishing or play tennis, squash or golf in any of 10 local courses. Eight meeting rooms for up to 250 are available.

RATES: Rooms from US$410 can be booked from the Leading Hotels of the World website.

CONTACT: 1 Avenue de L’Imperatrice, 64200, Biarritz, France, tel 33 5 5941 6400, www.lhw.com

COLONIAL CHIC

LA RESIDENCE HOTEL & SPA, HUE

Governing a colony like Annam in central Vietnam was tiring work, and the French governor needed a place to retreat to at the day’s end. Today, his former abode, La Residence & Spa in Hue along the fabled Perfume River, continues to offer sanctuary to guests in love with the past but can’t do without the state-of-the-art comforts of the present.

Opened two years ago after an extensive renovation that brought to the fore splendid art deco features, this 1930s structure has been described as an “architectural gem” by many. Most of the 122 rooms have irresistible views of the river banks and Hue’s iconic Citadel beyond, with the Signature Suites located in the original mansion building. The top categories feature colonial themes such as Monuments d’Egypte and Voyage en Chine and seductive terraces as well.

The conference and banquet hall can accommodate 120 people. Wi-Fi and internet access is free throughout the property.

RATES: Rooms from US$110.

CONTACT: 1 Le Loi Street, Hue, tel 84 54 837 475, www.la-residence-hue.com

A TOUCH OF GLASS

LIASSIDI PALACE, VENICE

The 600-year-old palazzo has been revived as a deluxe retreat in the heart of one of the world’s most romantic cities.

From arrival to departure, the experience is destined to be unforgettable, from the water taxi service that drops off guests at the entrance leading to a flower-filled courtyard and onward to the grand lobby with its soaring ceilings, Gothic windows and marble floors. Guestrooms are just as captivating, blending the modern with traditional Venetian touches of Murano glass and art deco detailing. Amenities include air conditioning, satellite/cable TV, bidet, Frette linens, weighing scales and safety deposit box among others.

F&B options are few, just breakfast and the bar, but Venice is rife with eateries waiting to be sampled. Also, don’t expect the usual facilities of pool or fitness centre (but which are available nearby). Best to make your exploration of the city your main exercise on this trip. You won’t regret it.

RATES: Rooms from US$444.83 from the Small Luxury Hotels of the World website.

CONTACT: Castello, Ponte Dei Greci 3405, Venice 30122, Veneto, Italy, tel 39 041 520 5658, www.slh.com

PRINCELY ABODE

MAISON SOUVANNAPHOUM, LUANG PRABANG

The former residence of Prince Souvannaphouma, who resided there in the 1960s, can be yours for a few days.

The hotel, a collection of royal chambers of varying sizes and personalities, offers Old Asia charm mingled with contemporary chic (internet access is free). Twenty-four guestrooms and suites look out to lush lawns and the poolside restaurant, Elephant Blanc, whose menu highlights Laotian, French and Indochinese cuisines. The Angsana Spa rounds up the experience with therapies aimed at restoring soul and synergy.

Maison Souvannaphouma is centrally located and within walking distance of must-see attractions such as the Mekong River and Wat Xieng Thong Temple.

RATES: Rooms from US$120 for a minimum two-night stay from the Small Luxury Hotels of the World website.

CONTACT: Rue Chao Fa Ngum, Banthatluang, PO Box 741, Luang Prabang, Laos, tel 856 71 254 609, www.slh.com

SHANGHAI BEAUTY

OKURA GARDEN HOTEL, SHANGHAI

Vintage French architecture and modern design mesh seamlessly in what was the former French Club (circa 1926), and is now the 500-room Okura Garden Hotel.

Surrounded by 2.82ha of gardens, where tennis, petanque and soccer was played and Mao Zedong once strolled around, the place is redolent with memories. Of the two domed pavilions which occupied a corner of the greens, only one remains.

However, many of the original features of the building such as the metal railing of the staircase in the east entrance lobby, nude female sculptures crowning the columns in the second floor and the balconies were preserved, recreating a piece of Shanghai’s heyday.

Guestrooms feature plush furnishings in neat neutral tones and contain the prerequisite business tools.

Managed by the prestigious Japanese chain, Okura, the Japanese restaurant is expectedly tops, and Yamazato is. But no less so is the Cantonese outlet Bai Yu Lan with its Hongkong chef.

Meetings are perfectly catered to in the Grand Ballroom, silent witness to some of Shanghai’s most glittery events. Its elliptical, sunken dance area with a sprung floor still exists, although is now protected. Stunning is the oval, stained glass installation in the centre of the ceiling shaped like the bottom of a boat. A business centre on the 26th floor attends to corporate travellers’ needs, including translation and ticket bookings.

RATES: Rooms from US$253.33 from the Leading Hotels of the World website.

CONTACT: 58 Mao Ming Nan Lu, Shanghai 200020, China, tel 86 21 6451 111, www.lhw.com

BEAUTIFUL BUILDING

THE PENINSULA NEW YORK

Beaux-Art buildings in New York are what add to its distinctive visual character, and The Peninsula, sister to the Hongkong matriarch, is one of these beauties.

Originally The Gotham Hotel, which made its debut in 1905, and remains one of the first hotels in the city to use steel-frame construction. Its facade with limestone carvings, copper cornice and Doric columns complemented the neighbouring University Club, which was also trend setting then.

It went residential until 1978 when it surfaced as Maxim’s de Paris. The Peninsula Group took over in 1988, reopening it as the US flagship. Ten years later, the hotel underwent a total makeover, which introduced contemporary furnishings and modern technology that served only to highlight the existing design elements.

The Peninsula is known for its efficient rooms, and those at The Pen New York have all the tech perks, from the bedside control panel to the “smart” switch for setting mood lighting. Fax machines are also programmed to give off signals in the bedside controls and at the door if a message arrives.

RATES: Rooms from US$975.

CONTACT: 700 Fifth Avenue at 55th Street, New York, NY 10019, USA, tel 1 212 956 2888, www.peninsula.com

UPDATED LANDMARK

POLONIA PALACE HOTEL, WARSAW

At 90, this Warsaw landmark, known for having welcomed various politicians, artists and celebrities, is still going strong, thanks to a major – but sensitively conducted refurbishment – that eased it into the 21st century. Located on one of the city’s most important streets, it’s near the Central Railway Station and the Palace of Culture and Science Convention Center.

Spread over seven floors are 206 guestrooms and suites, including one English period-style apartment, reflecting subtle colour tones. Overall, the feeling is one of inviting warmth. Amenities include a room safe able to take in a laptop, blackout window drapes, double glazed windows, high-speed internet access, satellite TV with radio and bill view function among others.

Meetings of up to 250 people can converge in six venues that are equipped with high-tech features to create successful product launches, gala dinners or boardroom meetings. A business centre, located nearby, is open 24 hours.

Polish with a Mediterranean twist is available in the main restaurant, while pastries are Cafe Strauss’s specialties. Bojangles Bar has the drinks and space for small meetings.

RATES: Rooms from US$195.45 from the Worldhotels website.

CONTACT: Jerozolimskie 45, Warsaw City, mazovia, Poland, tel 48 22 318 2800, www.worldhotels.com

BACK ON THE SCENE

RAFFLES BEIJING

Since 1900, this iconic property – known in the past as Grand Hotel de Peking – has played a significant role in the Chinese capital’s social life. Mao Zedong, Chou Enlai, Liu Shaoqi, Deng Xiaoping, giants of Chinese history, and other renowned figures have, one time or another, enjoyed its quality service.

Located at the crossroads of the bustling Changan Avenue and commercial district of Wangfujing, it recently went through an epiphany with the help of another legend Fairmont Raffles Hotels International.

Imbued with a refreshed persona, the hotel now features 171 spacious guestrooms, including a Presidential Suite, measuring 884sqm, five Grand Hotel Suites and nine Personality Suites. Each of the Personality Suites is named after various luminaries.

While elegance of the past clearly defines the ambience permeating the hotel, the needs of the present – catering to the corporate traveller – are fully understood. Essential work tools such as Wi-Fi, high-speed broadband and plasma TV are provided everywhere. Residents can also experience four distinctive F&B choices: Jaan Restaurant for contemporary French cuisine, East 33 for Chinese and Italian, La Vie for high tea and the Writers’ Bar for cocktails and after-dinner cognac.

There are five venues to meet in and highly professional staff to make sure events run impeccably, just as everything else does in the rest of the hotel.

RATES: Rooms from US$263.67.

CONTACT: 33 East Changan Avenue, Beijing 100004, tel 86 10 6526 3388, www.beijing.raffles.com

LIFTING THE VEIL

RAMBAGH PALACE, JAIPUR

It’s no wonder the beauteous Maharani Gayathri Devi of Jaipur was not at all pleased when she learned her husband, Sawai Man Singh II, had turned over the stately Rambagh Palace – her home for many years – to outsiders to run as (gasp) a hotel.

Her loss has been the gain of the world’s travellers, who have been allowed a glimpse of life behind the high walls and a world of landscaped gardens, exquisite antiques and rich tapestries and paintings, where a retinue of retainers stands silently by to do one’s bidding.

Each of the 73 guestrooms and 17 suites may hark back to a bygone era, but in-house services respond to present-day needs with 24-hour room service, valet service, business centre with internet access, secretarial service, currency exchange, bookings and meeting venues. However, esoteric requests for an astrologer or folk dancers will also be entertained. This is India, remember, the land of fantasy and fascination.

RATES: Rooms from US$640 (mid-December) from the Leading Hotels of the World website.

CONTACT: Bhawani Singh Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India, tel 91 141 221 1919, www.lhw.com

FIT FOR A POPE

RELAIS LA SUVERA, SIENA, TUSCANY

Imagine waking up to interiors done by Baldassarre Peruzzi, one of the Renaissance period’s foremost architects, or supping in the presence of heirloom antiques and objets d’art. Guests staying at the 32-room Relais la Suvera (“suvera” meaning sovereign) do precisely just that.

This estate in Tuscany has a long and colourful lore behind it, starting in the High Middle Ages when it was owned by the powerful Countess Ava Matilde de Franzesi until the Republic of Siena presented it to Pope Julius II in exchange for sacral favours.

Besides being known as an astute politician, the Pope was also an avowed art connoisseur, who commissioned Raphael, Michelangelo and Bramante to create their immortal works for the Vatican. For La Suvera, no one would do but Peruzzi, who planned the clever juxtaposition between the severity of a medieval fortress and the sumptuousness of Renaissance aesthetics.

Fortunately, today’s culture lovers can experience the enchantment of the papal villa due to the preservation efforts of the Marquis Ricci family, La Suvera’s present owners. They have even created a museum that’s building up a collection of artefacts related to La Suvera’s lineage.

Modern amenities in the guestrooms include air conditioning, satellite TV, minibar, personal safe and Tuscan herbal products with olive oil as their base. The Oliviera Restaurant showcases Tuscan cuisine as well as wines from the estate whose vines are cultivated organically.

RATES: Rooms from US$466.40.

CONTACT: 5030 Pievescola, Siena, Italy, tel 39 05 7796 0300, www.lasuvera.it

RESTORED CHARM

THE SHELBOURNE DUBLIN, A RENAISSANCE HOTEL

Dating from 1824 and recently reopened (March this year) as a Renaissance hotel after a E100 million (US$134.88 million) renovation, the Shelbourne once again is the centre of attention in Dublin.

Standing on St Stephen’s Green, it’s a clever upgrading because it retains a lot of the familiar layout while in fact transforming a product that for a long time had been relying on some extremely faded charm.

Familiar landmarks such as the Horseshoe Bar remain, with its white bar counter, dark red wall coverings and distinctive shape. The Lord Mayor’s Lounge serves afternoon tea and quiet evening drinks and is perfect for all-day lounging; the old Shelbourne Bar and the restaurant has been replaced by the No. 27, while the new Saddle Room is a modern steak and seafood restaurant.

As a result of the makeover, the number of rooms has been increased to 265 rooms and 19 suites, 11 of which are named after famous guests.

There are 12 conference and banqueting suites including the Constitution Room – with a draft copy recently purchased on display, and some of the original chairs from 1922 (including Michael Collins’). The new ballroom is large (350 guests for dinner), and the spa will be opening later this year.

RATES: Rooms from US$357.43.

CONTACT: 27 St Stephen’s Green, tel 353 1 663 4500, www.theshelbourne.ie

FAMILY TRADITION

HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF LUZERN, LUCERNE

Built in 1845, this historic jewel has had some interesting check ins ­– Tolstoy wrote one of his works here; Wagner completed Tristan und Isolde in one of the guestrooms; Ludwig II enjoyed its hospitality; the star-studded guest list is impressive.

The same clan that has run it for five generations remains involved in its management. “A long history awaits you here,” owners Michael and Patrick Hauser write in the hotel’s website (www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch). “A history, which is also our family history.”

Completely renovated in 1999 to cater to a new generation of celebrity and burgeoning ranks of corporate travellers, the hotel boasts 107 guestrooms, including 21 suites, all with high-speed internet access and views of the lakes and mountains or the courtyards of Lucerne’s Old Town.

Two restaurants serve local fresh fish and seafood, while the Schweizerhof bar is stocked with fine cigars and whiskeys. A sun terrace is open during the summer.

Function rooms accommodate between 10 and 450 delegates.

RATES: From US$302.24 from the Preferred Hotels website.

CONTACT: Schweizerhofquai, Lucerne, CH-6002, Switzerland, tel 41 41 410 0410, www.preferredhotels.com/schweizerhof

PLEASING SYNERGY

THE WESTIN SYDNEY

Is there life after serving as the General Post Office? Most definitely, and the Westin Sydney is a perfect example.

The 416-room hotel in the prestigious Martin Place incorporates one of Sydney’s most recognisable Victorian landmarks (built 1865) into its contemporary design, resulting in an eye pleasing synergy. A four-storey enclosed glass roof courtyard brings together these diverse buildings – the new tower and the vintage structure with its iconic clock tower.

In the new 31-storey block are guestrooms with spectacular views of the city, while the Post Office wing contains the Heritage Rooms.

Standard amenities include the Heavenly bed, expansive bathrooms with separate rainforest showers and deep soaking tubs, BOSE sound system and 37-inch flat-screen TVs among others. Westin Workout rooms (with certain equipment like treadmills) are also available.

Mosaic, Westin’s signature restaurant in the courtyard link, specialises in Mediterranean dishes. In addition, there are 14 other F&B options in the 1 Martin Place. complex for guests with adventurous palates.

RATES: Rooms from US$291.32.

CONTACT: 1 Martin Place, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia, tel 61 2 8223 1222, www.westin.com.au

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, RAFFLES

Not everyone gets to observe a centennial birthday – like Singapore’s Raffles Hotel in 1987, when it was declared a national monument – much more a 120th birthday. Raffles Hotel will mark its hundred and two score milestone on December 1. This was the day, in 1887, when four Armenian brothers (Martin, Tigran, Aviet and Arshak Sarkies) opened the doors of what has come to stand “for all the fables of the Exotic East”, to quote Somerset Maugham, who was no stranger to the hotel or its impeccable service.     

But when one reaches that certain age, why delay the celebrations, which is what the management of the hotel had in mind when it launched a series of events/promotions aimed at keeping awareness of the Grand Dame’s legend and achievements high throughout the year. This included the Passport Programme recommending 120 things to do at Raffles, which promised participants a chance to win stays at Raffles hotels in Dubai, Beijing or Singapore, if they accomplished 12 designated activities before September 30; luxurious stays in a Grand Hotel Suite and Personality Suite; shopping rewards at the Raffles Hotel Arcade, educational history tours and drawing competition for schools and charity groups.

Festivities will culminate in an Open House Gala Reception at the Palm Court in the middle of this month when the public will be able to tour areas exclusive to guests. It was in September 1991 when the curtain rose on an impressive restoration that took two and half years, revealing elegant public spaces and a collection of suites and restaurants all sensitively planned to launch Raffles Hotel into a new era. The public was pleased, accolades have been pouring in since and the guest roster – always luminous in the past – has remained just as bright as heads of state, dignitaries, rock stars and royalty checked in, wanting to renew their acquaintance with a familiar friend.

The magic of Raffles Hotel endures. Says Diana Ee-Tan, managing director, Raffles Hotels & Resorts: “For over a century, Raffles Hotel Singapore’s heritage, unique residential charm and its gracious service have enchanted travellers the world over. The hotel embodies the romance of travel, and with her timeless style, she will continue to be a treasured landmark and legendary icon for many decades to come.”