Once China’s fourth largest city, Wuhan has been overshadowed by rapid development all around the country. But it is determined to reclaim its rightful status, writes Claire Lin
The city of Wuhan consists of Wuchang, Hankou and Hanyang. Each of these three towns differs in historical background, scale of development and pace of life, and it’s only less than a century since they became integrated as Wuhan.
Wuhan is well situated, but its urbanisation has been relatively slow. Lying in the heartland of China, where railways, sea routes and highways all come together – it is even called the “Thoroughfare Leading to Nine Provinces” – such a strategic place should have allowed the city to thrive easily. However, locals lament that due to national government policies, regions like the Pearl River Delta, the major cities in eastern and northern China, and even Chongqing and Chengdu have all seen greater economic growth. In contrast, Wuhan, which they say possesses more favourable conditions than any other city in central China, has only very recently caught on to the need for development.
Right location, right talent
Thanks to its strategic location, a pool of quality graduates and low operating costs, Wuhan has begun to see an influx of multinational companies that consider the city their gateway into the China market, especially the hinterland market that represents hundreds of millions of consumers.
Apart from domestic enterprises, French companies in particular are tapping into Wuhan – it is now the biggest investment market for them outside France. Singaporeans, who are known for their business acumen, are also making their presence felt in Wuhan’s High-Tech Development Zone. As a result, Singapore Airlines is set to fly directly to Wuhan, while Air France, which has long incorporated the city in its planning in China, may also offer direct flights by next year.
Li Gang, executive assistant manager of Hotel Novotel Wuhan Xin Hua, says that compared with other Chinese cities, Wuhan is undervalued and therefore many companies are rushing in to get a head start on their rivals. For instance, Wuhan probably accounts for the biggest domestic investment of Wanda Group, with 10 projects being developed. And, Hong Kong-based New World Development has built several department stores and office towers in Wuhan.
The city has also gained a reputation for innovation and technology. First and foremost there is “Optics Valley”, namely Wuhan East Lake New Technology Development Zone. Other notable centres include the Optoelectronics Industrial Park, Biomedicine Industrial Park, Software Park, and the Electrical and Mechanical Industrial Park. With a thousand high-tech firms having set up branches here, the goal of having “Silicon Valley in the US, Optics Valley in China” seems to be taking shape.
The most significant event occurred when global pharmaceutical giant Pfizer picked Wuhan for the establishment of its research centre in China, which raised the profile of Optics Valley in biotechnology circles. Subsequently, other players moved in, including GlaxoSmithKline of the UK and Bayer AG of Germany. Many other international manufacturers have also now arrived, such as Schneider and Siemens (from Germany); Ford, Microsoft, DuPont, Lucent, IBM, HP and Mobil (from the US); Alcatel and Alstom (from France); the UK’s Unilever; Korean company LG; as well as a host of Japanese and Taiwanese companies. The dynamic business climate that has resulted has made Optics Valley a distinctive and independent district in Wuhan.
On street level
Tasting local food and visiting famous streets are two of the must-do activities for any traveller to Wuhan. Hubu Alley is what the locals recommend, for the street is lined with stalls offering all kinds of snacks, a perfect example of the local snack culture. However, the Wuhanese usually eat snacks in the morning, known as guozao, so you should visit then rather than at night to avoid disappointment. There’s an abundant choice of snacks, notable examples being hot dry noodles, bean curd sheets, dumplings and glutinous rice doughnuts. However, the most popular is duck neck, whose mundane look belies its popularity. It can be found everywhere, in particular at its birthplace on Jingwu Road, where over 30 stores specialise in this delicacy. The demand for this snack is so great that a whole industry has developed ranging from duck rearing to final processing, and there is apparently even a “Duck Neck Association”.
Wuhan’s hot dry noodles are also worth a try. Like zhajiangmian (fried sauce noodles), these noodles are known for their elastic texture, and taste good when mixed with condiments like sesame sauce, spring onion sauce, turnip and sesame oil, and vinegar. For this, food locals like to go to the old store Songlinji, but if you cannot eat on-site, you can take home the instant noodle version. Another place renowned for gourmet food is Jiqing Street, located at Jiangan District in Hankou. A local saying goes, “Morning at Hubu Alley, night-time at Jiqing Street”, and people go there for supper amid crowded tables and a boisterous atmosphere.
Sadly, the street’s popularity has dropped somewhat due to recent redevelopment work, but the revamping of Jiqing Street will hopefully bring the customers back in numbers. The redevelopment project will be completed in three phases, and is the largest historical and cultural refurbishment in Wuhan. Amenities like an ethnic creativity zone, themed shopping area, interesting bistros and tea houses will all be available.
For those who like modern dining experiences or sumptuous banquets, Wuhan Tiandi is the hot new pick. Adjacent to Beach Park and developed by the Hong Kong-based Shui On Land, it models itself after Xintiandi in Shanghai, combining upmarket retailers, restaurants and entertainment venues. The eateries there are mid- to high-end and of East-meets-West style, with many offering alfresco areas. Youngsters like going to the CGV Xingxing International Cinemas nearby. And contemporary architecture aside, Wuhan Tiandi also boasts nine refurbished historic buildings.
Ugur Lee Kanbur, general manager of the Westin Wuhan Wuchang hotel, has only recently come to the city, but his liking for adventure has already taken him to every corner of Wuhan. He recommends Tanhualin as his favourite haunt. This small lane is flanked by Chinese and foreign historic buildings, allowing a glimpse of the old Wuhan. Since it contains 50-plus century-old buildings and architectural relics, and is close to the Hubei Institute of Fine Arts, the Wuchang government has earmarked RMB130 million (US$20.4 million) to transform Tanhualin into a cultural and arts village. Today, the area is dotted with artists’ workshops, galleries and creative boutiques, whose innovative items can present delightful surprises.
The Bund in Wuhan is another attraction. As we all know, Tianjin, Shanghai and Guangzhou each boasts many foreign-style buildings because they once were home to concession areas. What is less well known is that Wuhan opened Hankou for trade in 1861, so it also contains many old foreign edifices that remain today. Adjacent to a thoroughfare overlooking the Yangtze River, the Bund in Wuhan was a concession of five nations, namely Britain, Germany, Russia, France and Japan. Later, many consulates and banks established themselves here, making this riverside area a thriving commercial hub with exotic colonial-style buildings. Some of these buildings have now been retrofitted as banks and restaurants.
Because of their similarities in geography, the Bunds in Shanghai and Wuhan are often compared. For instance, Hanzheng Street is said to resemble Nanjing East Road Pedestrian Street. In terms of the number of old buildings, the Wuhan Bund is on a par with its Shanghai counterpart. However, the buildings on the Shanghai Bund are packed together, while those on Wuhan’s Bund are more spread out, punctuated by modern buildings and therefore losing a sense of unity. Nevertheless, locals always come here for a stroll, and the area has a relaxing atmosphere.
Sightseeing highlights
Wuhan does not promote itself much. As a result, many people know little about the city prior to visiting it. However, a tour around Wuhan soon dispels this uncertainty over its tourist credentials, for there are many sightseeing spots and much interesting history.
Wuchang, situated on the east side of the Yangtze River, has long been regarded as the main tourist area of Wuhan, as it boasts attractions like Yellow Crane Tower, East Lake, Moshan Mountain, Wuhan University and Hubei Provincial Museum. Yellow Crane Tower is the most famous, for many old poems praise its beauty. However, the Tower has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, with the current one being completed in 1985 – this saw the addition of elevators and a Millennium Bell outside. How it differs from the ancient tower is hard to tell, but its observation deck provides a wonderful bird’s-eye view of the city.
In recent history, Wuchang is significant for its role as the cradle of the 1911 Revolution, which celebrates its centenary this year. A stone’s throw away from Yellow Crane Tower is the Memorial Hall of the Wuchang Uprising, which was the catalyst of the Revolution. Alongside the opening of the Wuhan–Guangzhou High-Speed Railway, the Wuhan government has launched a centenary-themed tour, which consists of a tour in Zhongshan, Guangdong (birthplace of Sun Yat-sen) and another in Wuhan (home to the Uprising). This initiative has proven popular among tourists – last year’s tourism figures for Wuhan saw an increase in Guangdong and Hong Kong travellers, owing to the opening of the high-speed railway.
For leisure outings, the most popular spot is East Lake. This is China’s biggest lake within an urban environment – it is six times bigger than Hangzhou’s West Lake, although the latter is more famous. Mao Zedong once lived by East Lake after the establishment of the People’s Republic of China; he stayed here longer than anywhere else except Zhongnanhai. The East Lake Hotel, a long-time favourite of government officials, is also located here. The lake area is evolving fast – construction work is under way to connect East Lake with other lagoons, and Wanda Group has invested RMB50 billion (US$7.8 billion) to develop a complex between East Lake and Sand Lake (Shahu), which will feature a world-class aqua theatre, movie-themed park, a promenade that houses international retailers (Han Street), a river with sightseeing boats (Chu River), a museum of Chinese modern history, as well as a gallery, hotel and luxury homes. It is said that this project is the largest property development in China, and Han Street is expected to open by year-end. Additionally, the Shenzhen Overseas Chinese Town has invested RMB4.5 billion (US$0.7 billion) to build a Happy Valley here, which will comprise a theme park, hotel and entertainment facilities. Scheduled to be completed by early next year, this will be the fifth Happy Valley in China.
Thanks to its cherry blossoms, Wuhan University is also a tourist spot, and the fact that many buildings there are designated as historical relics may also contribute to its popularity. Every year, when the cherry blossoms emerge, people arrive to take in the view. Also much visited is Hubei Provincial Museum; admission is free, and it is known for its wealth of relics, totalling over 200,000 items. The museum’s most precious treasure is Bianzhong (Chime Bells), with the ticket for a bell show costing RMB15 (US$2.4).
At the crossroads
Prior to the Reform and Opening-Up Policy of 1978, Wuhan, as the birthplace of the Revolution of 1911, was the fourth greatest city in China, a metropolis on the Yangtze River. Speak to local Wuhanese today, and they will voice disappointment at their city’s current lesser position of prominence. However, they are keen to change that as soon as possible.
Today, Wuhan is developing at warp speeds, with work being carried out at over 1,000 construction sites. It is reported that the city recorded over RMB100 billion (US$15.7 billion) of investment in infrastructure last year, the biggest in its history. It is still the “Thoroughfare Leading to Nine Provinces”, and coupled with the opening of the high-speed railway, Wuhan now offers easy access to all major cities in China, cementing its role as a railway hub.
The list of infrastructure projects is mind-boggling. Wuhan is building highways to shorten travel times to eight neighbouring cities to within one hour, thereby enhancing the core city’s interaction with peripheral conurbations. In addition, there will be one new metro line completed every year starting from 2012, the goal being to build eight of them by 2017; property developments are already booming along the lines.
On top of that, there will be 10 cross-river bridges in the future, coupled with 100km of new expressways and elevated bridges in coming years. Finally, tens of billions of renminbi will be invested to build a Wuhan Newport, which will serve as an inland shipping hub to reinvigorate the river freight industry along the mid-stream section of the Yangtze River.
On the aviation front, Wuhan is striving to become the fourth major air transportation centre in the country, behind Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. In order to stake its claim as the biggest aviation hub in central China, the city is building an airport that will be able to handle up to 38 million passengers per year and allow for the landing of the biggest aircraft, the A380. This airport will cover a total area equivalent to 14 soccer fields. Moreover, the city will see the construction of the 606-metre-high Wuhan Greenland Center, the second tallest building in China and the world’s third tallest. This new landmark will feature an art gallery, a 360-degree panoramic theatre, a private clubhouse for entrepreneurs, a five-star The Ritz-Carlton hotel, serviced apartments, offices, and a convention and exhibition centre. It will open up a new CBD in Wuhan.
For decades it has been the dream of the Wuhanese to showcase their merits and make their city central China’s economic powerhouse. With pride and vision, it seems Wuhan is set to dazzle in the not-so-distant future.
