Like many great cities, Bangkok (or Bang Makok, meaning “olive plum river bank”) became the national capital as the result of a regime change. Back in the mid-18th century, before what was then a backwater hamlet was chosen as capital by general Phraya Chakri, the court of King Taksin was located for 20 years at Thonburi Si Mahasamut, on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya river.

Fleeing the Burmese armies, which had ransacked his former power base of Ayutthaya upstream, the luckless Taksin found this wealthy entrepôt ideally positioned – just an overnight boat ride from his previous court and close to the mouth of the ocean.

While Bangkok’s downtown area has developed rapidly into rows of towering concrete and glass, there are still pockets of unspoilt riverside communities in the Thonburi district, bustling with activity. It’s this that gives the five-star hotels, chic restaurants and elegant colonial mansions along the east banks of the Chao Phraya, from Taksin Bridge to Memorial Bridge, a view of one of the world’s most colourful vistas.

Over the years, the city’s infamous gridlocks somehow settled the monicker “the wrong side of the river” on Thonburi because of the amount of time it took to reach the downtown areas. Ironic really, considering that there was a time when most Thai residents lived, worked and died on the river, and the only buildings were the palaces.

However, attitudes to Thonburi are set to change, especially with the Bangkok Skytrain (BTS) extending its reach to the neighbourhood. (The start date has yet to be announced, but the infrastructure is ready.)

Unsurprisingly, the city’s real-estate developers have been quick to spot a prime opportunity. A number of projects have been sprouting up, the most prominent of which is The River residences at the curve of the Chao Phraya. Conceptualised by Hans Brouwer, a protégé of Sir Norman Foster, this address is intended to revive the cache of waterfront living. Henri Young, marketing director of Raimon Land, the enterprise behind The River, says: “We are building up The River as a destination in itself.”

To spark interest in the project, Raimon Land has been staging lifestyle events since last year in its showroom on the site, attended by the cream of Thai society. The tactic has obviously worked, with Young reporting that the inventory of 508 one, two and three-bedroom apartments, including a duplex and penthouse in the first South Tower, is practically sold out.

According to designer Brouwer, The River will be “all about views”. He says: “Located on the bend in the Chao Phraya river, the views across to the city skyline are very different from those up and down river. Building position and orientation were extensively studied to ensure unobstructed views from every unit to make the most of each view plane.

“As one goes up the building, the views of the river snaking its way up country or towards the ocean become more critical than those across to the city. So the changing nature of how these views affect each apartment was very important in how the design evolved.”

Following his blueprint, all the main spaces in the units – studies, bedrooms and living areas – look out onto the Chao Phraya. The public areas will be just as spectacular with a river-facing infinity pool, a landscaped podium and the Sky Gardens, a mid-level common section in each tower which includes a pool, a state-of-the-art gym, landscaping and a spa.

Asked how The River would integrate into the neighbourhood, Brouwer said: “We were very conscious about wanting to make this building and its facilities a part of the community. The waterfront part is accessible for both residents and other city dwellers, with the location of the restaurants and retail at that level.”

Brouwer said he was amazed that a site the size of The River (20,564 sqm) still existed in the centre of a teeming hub such as Bangkok. To him, this represents the potential for inner-city living, combined with the luxury of being on the water at a point where the river is over 200 metres wide. He added: “It’s this idea of being on the water, yet immediately accessible to the centre of Bangkok via ferries, the Skytrain and the Taksin Bridge, which is really quite unique.”

Brouwer isn’t the only one who appreciates Thonburi’s appeal. Thomas Hoeborn, general manager of the Millennium Hilton Bangkok, says: “The ‘wrong side of the river’ is being deleted from our vocabulary. More and more of our guests are finding that there’s nothing like coming in from the bustle of downtown to enter the serenity of our property.”

Since opening in 2006, the 543-room hotel has worked at ways to attract guests. Its Three Sixty Lounge on the 32nd floor is arguably the best aerie on this side of town, and at night, the panorama from your drinks table is magical. But Hoeborn isn’t resting on his laurels, with new projects such as the Cheese Room – for dairy aficionados – in the pipeline. “We want to create several corners of experience for the visitor,” he says.

Other five-star properties in the vicinity include The Peninsula, the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa, The Oriental, Shangri-La and Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Patravadi Mejudhon, veteran Thai film and stage actress, is a long-term resident and passionate supporter of Thonburi. Patravadi, who sports a distinctive silver crop of hair, oversees the Patravadi Theatre, Bangkok’s renowned performing arts centre.

The complex comprises a large, tented auditorium, kindergarten, art gallery, al fresco café and Studio 9 venue, showcasing a dinner-dance concept which allows emerging talent to shine. Nurturing the next generation of artists is what Patravadi, who began her career at the age of six, is firmly committed to.

The picturesque quarter where the Patravadi Theatre sits is close to the majestic Wat Rakhang temple. It is an arty, laid-back neighbourhood with a feel not unlike Soho or Greenwich Village. The boutique hotel Ibrik and a contemporary craft shop are also found here. So it’s hardly surprising that Patravadi has chosen to stay and create in this environment. She grew up on the water’s edge in an elegant house, born to a well-off clan who had traditionally served as faithful royal retainers.

As a youngster, she witnessed a flurry of cultural presentations at the nearby temple. She recalls seeing “a lot of activities taking place in Thonburi, from Thai classical dance to Chinese opera and folk music like likay”.

Likay is a combination of dance, classical song and acrobatics, similar to a Broadway musical, replete with dazzling costumes and dramatic moments. Patravadi’s likay performances have been acclaimed throughout the kingdom. Today, sadly, there are only a handful of likay artists left.

King Taksin was responsible for Thonburi’s reputation as a cultural hub. When he moved the royal palace from the decimated Ayutthaya to Bangkok in the late 1800s, a royal court culture naturally thrived.

Patravadi recounts that Thonburi became very famous for a wide variety of attributes, including Thai classical music, arts and crafts and delicacies such as the popular fried bananas and glacé fruits.

Since only the best artisans were entitled to serve the royal family, the area bustled with workshops, featuring foundry workers casting brass Buddha statues, blacksmiths forging the noblemen’s swords and daggers, musical-instrument makers, and the wood carvers who fashioned the intricate khon masks used in Thai pageantry.

With the way things are shaping up in historic, charming Thonburi, it looks like it won’t be long before the district regains its rightful share of the limelight.

Top five business hotels

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Despite a total facelift, this 38-year-old icon continues to combine unique Thai hospitality with the facilities for a discerning international clientele. The Dusit Club rooms and Dusit Grand rooms offer high-speed internet access,  oversized workdesks, wall-mounted LCD TVs, pillow and bath menus, and 24-hour butler service, as well as access to the Dusit Club Lounge, with drinks and snacks throughout the day and free use of a meeting room for one hour. Located next to the Sala Daeng Skytrain station and Silom subway, as well as a wealth of shopping and dining options, this 517-room property also offers guests a choice of 13 on-site restaurants and bars, including D’Sens and the ever-popular Benjarong Thai restaurant.

And with the Devarana Spa, you need never step out of the Dusit Thani.

CONTACT 946 Rama IV Road; tel +66 2200 9000; dusit.com.

Grand Millennium Sukhumvit

The latest major player in Bangkok’s hospitality portfolio, this 325-room property has an excellent location by the Asoke Skytrain station and Sukhumvit subway. Interiors have plenty of natural light, thanks to a soaring atrium, contemporary furnishings and high-tech detailing such as the mini-LCD screens in the corridors. Four room types, all with wifi access, are available: Deluxe (38 sqm), Executive Club Room, Executive Suite (60 sqm) and the Presidential Suite (200 sqm). Dining options include a tapas wine bar, noodle corner and a Japanese/Italian restaurant.

CONTACT 30 Sukhumvit 21 (Asoke) Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana; tel +66 2204 4000; grandmillenniumskv.com.

Holiday Inn Silom Bangkok

This 1970s property has emerged from a multi-million baht refurbishment project a vastly different creature. Guestroom and public areas were redone, introducing brighter solid hues and more streamlined furnishings. The Premier and Executive Club rooms are more luxurious, featuring 32-inch LCD TVs, broadband internet and separate baths and showers. Innovative dining options include The Brasserie and Hari’s Bar, while events space includes two ballrooms: the Crystal Ballroom (which can accommodate up to 280 delegates) and the Silom Ballroom, divisible into three, and able to take up to 850 people for a reception.

CONTACT 981 Silom Road; tel +66 2238 4300; holidayinn.com.

InterContinental Bangkok

Located at the crossroads of one of the city’s most exciting leisure precincts, the Intercontinental is undergoing an extensive refurbishment which will reach completion by the end of the year and will see all 381 rooms and suites equipped with workdesks with ergonomic seats, iPod docking stations and rainforest showers. On the fourth floor, US$4 million has been spent on a state-of-the-art meetings venue – besides the Grand Ballroom (accommodating up to 1,000 people), there is also an exhibition area for 1,500.

CONTACT 973 Ploenchit Road, Patumwan; tel +66 2656 0444; intercontinental.com.

Hotel Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport

It’s located between two runways, but this 612-room hotel is so well soundproofed that sleeping isn’t a problem. With all the amenities of a deluxe resort, from stylish guestrooms with all mod cons to a swimming pool with lush landscaping and a French-style spa, guests can escape from the pressures of the road. Of the six bars and restaurants, The Square is open 24 hours, and there are also extensive meeting facilities.

CONTACT 999 Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, Moo 1, Nongprue Bang Phil, Samutprakarn; tel +66 2131 1111; novotel.com.