Features

Taste: Water of Life

16 Nov 2017 by Neha Gupta Kapoor
The Laphroaig Distillery on the Isle of Islay

Scotch whisky is a quality spirit that can easily be a collector’s item. Neha Gupta Kapoor gives an overview of its origin, importance, production and availability in Scotland

The roots of Scotland’s national drink — whisky — can be traced to much before the fifth century, before distilling was known to the Scottish. During that period, it was consumed in its potent form as medicine, believed to be able to cure colic, palsy and smallpox amongst other illnesses. Known as the  “water of life”, it was also believed that if taken regularly, whisky could prolong one’s lifespan.

Then came the monks who along with Christianity, in the 15th century, brought the knowledge of distilling with them to Scotland. It wasn’t until the 17th century that taxes were imposed on the production and sale of whisky.

Scotland’s national tourism board, VisitScotland states:  “The first official recording of distilling stretches back to 1494, when Friar John Cor of Lindores Abbey in Fife was granted the king’s commission to make acqua vitae, Latin for water of life. The first official taxes on whisky production were not imposed until 1644, causing a rise in illicit whisky distilling in the country. Around 1780, there were about eight legal distilleries and 400 illegal ones. In 1823, Parliament eased restrictions on licensed distilleries with the Excise Act, while at the same time making it harder for the illegal stills to operate, thereby ushering in the modern era of Scotch production.”

Today, Scotch whisky is enjoyed in over 200 countries around the world. The Scottish Government states that the food and drink sector, which is one of the top five export industries of the country contributes  “nearly £16.5 billion worth of turnover annually”. A report published by The Scottish Government on January 26, 2015 states that in 2013, the export of whisky made up 85 per cent of the country’s total export of food and drinks. The government also says that today, “with its worldwide acclaim as the  “Home of Whisky”, Scotland exports 38 bottles of whisky overseas every second.”

Springbank Distillery in Campbeltown

REGIONS

Like wines, whiskies of Scotland are grouped by region. The five Scottish whisky-producing regions, each unique from the others, are known for their signature flavour characteristics.

Campbeltown

In the 19th century, this town on the beautiful peninsula of Kintyre was known as the  “whisky capital of the world”, with 34 distilleries. Today, Glen Scotia (glenscotia.com), Mitchell’s Glengyle (kilkerransinglemalt.com) and Springbank (springbankwhisky.com) are the only active distilleries here. All processes involved in the making of their aromatic Scotch whiskies, from malting to bottling, are done in Campbeltown. While flavours may differ from one distillery to another, they commonly have a strong hint of peat. Tours are conducted at all three distilleries and need to be booked in advance.

Highlands

It’s not just the mysterious lochs, intriguing past and unparalleled scenery that make the Scottish Highlands a popular visit. This enormous region, with over 40 distilleries, has given us some of the most popular malts such as Glenfiddich, The Macallan, Balvenie, Glenlivet, Glenfarclas, Glen Moray and Aberlour. The Spey valley of the Scottish Highlands is popular amongst those looking for a busy whisky trail. The region’s varieties give out characteristics from mellow to dramatically flowery, and possibly every flavour in between. There aren’t many distilleries in West Highland and their malts have a smoky characteristic to them. North Highland malts are light bodied with spicy notes, a few have saline taste. Whiskies from Central, South and East Highland are known for being slightly fruity. Overall, the Highlands whiskies tend to have a dry finish.

The Lagavulin Distillery on the Isle of Islay

Islands

The popular whisky producing Isles of Scotland are Mull, Skye, Orkney, Arran, Jura and Lewis. They aren’t separated from the rest of Scotland’s whisky producing regions because of the flavour, but strictly for having geographical differences. And so, the whiskies produced in the Islands aren’t tied together by a common thread. They’re as diverse as those in the Highlands. However, they’re known to be slightly more peaty than the Highlands malts.

Islay

Pronounced  “Isle-aah”, it is located in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. If it is a holiday you’re looking for, you may want to prepare yourself for the Atlantic Ocean winds, salty spray and rains. Having said that, it is these conditions that give the whiskies produced here a pronounced flavour, which mostly involves peat. Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bunnahabhain, Bruichladdich, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin and Laphroaig are the eight distilleries of Islay. VisitScotland says,  “The resulting ‘peat reek’ gives the island whiskies a smell and taste that has variously been described as iodine, seawater and even kippers! Islay malts are undoubtedly an acquired taste, and their presence adds instant depth of character to a blend.”

Lowland

Most of the Lowland’s distilleries produce malts to be included in blends, but a few are bottled as stand-alone single malts. They are mellower in comparison to the Highlands’ malts. Newcomers find it easier to take to the produce from this region as the peat content is significantly low and the notes are gentler.

BARS AND RESTAURANTS

VisitScotland recommends three bars in the land of whiskies — each one with an impressive malt collection.

The Craigellachie Speyside

The closest neighbours to this 26-key property are Macallan and Aberlour, popular amongst whisky drinkers. This boutique hotel in Speyside in the Scottish Highlands would be a good start to your whisky trail. The Quaich bar here is recognised as one of the leading whisky bars in the world with a collection of over 900 whiskies lining its walls. They’re served in cocktails, on the rocks or straight up. The bar even hosts tasting sessions on request and subject to availability of staff.
craigellachiehotel.co.uk

The Pot Still Whisky Bar

This one in Glasgow will sit well with whisky lovers, offering over 700 varieties of whiskies and cask ales. With a collection this large, this specialist in malts and blends says it prides itself  “on finding every customer their perfect dram. With our expert staff on hand to guide you around the array of whisky from every corner of the world we are sure you will find the dram that fits”. The Pot Still Whisky Bar hosts whisky tasting sessions through the year and has facilities for private sessions too. The shop sells whisky and related memorabilia, clothing and accessories.
thepotstill.co.uk

Whiski Rooms

This all-day eatery in Edinburgh specialises in  “all things Scottish”. It is divided into a bar, bistro, and a  “specialist” whisky shop and tasting room. When dining here, the staff are happy to recommend whiskies to pair with the Scottish food ordered. The shop has a friendly policy:  “try before they buy”. Live music in the evenings makes this a fun place for some Scottish revelry. If travelling with a group, booking a whisky tasting session in advance would be a good idea. The introductory tasting is priced at £22.50/1,919 per person. Other tastings include pairing with cheese and chocolate — both for £25/2,985 per person. It also has provisions for corporate groups. whiskirooms. co.uk.

NEW DISTILLERIES OF 2017

R&B Distillers 

This is the first legal distillery in Raasay, situated between the Isle of Skye and the mainland of Scotland. It is known for its handcrafted whiskies. It has overnight facilities — Raasay Distillery’s Borodale House — for members of the distillery’s Na Tusairean Club.
rbdistillers.com

The Borders Distillery

The only surviving distillery to operate in Scottish Borders closed its shutters permanently in 1837. This Lowlands area survived a 180-year long distillery-draught, which has ended this year. A former factory in the town of Hawick has been restored to produce blended Scotch whisky that goes by the name of Clan Fraser. Tours to start shortly.
clanfraserwhisky.com

The Clydeside Distillery

The pump house on River Clyde, in the heart of Glasgow is home to this distillery that produces single malt Scotch whisky. It promises to take visitors back to when distilling first began. Guides will share interesting information on the role Glasgow and the pump house have played in making whisky a global success.
theclydeside.com

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