Features

Warsaw

29 Feb 2012 by BusinessTraveller

Rose Dykins finds harrowing history, posh dumplings and pianos that play themselves in the Polish capital.

Uprising Museum

Begin at Warsaw’s Uprising Museum on the western side of the city centre. Above the entrance are the words of politician and resistance member Jan Stanislaw Jankowski: “We wanted to be free and owe this freedom to nobody.” Formerly a red-brick power station, the 2,000 sqm structure commemorates the city’s uprising against Nazi occupation on August 1, 1944. The dark, cavernous museum sets a solemn mood as you make your way through the exhibition halls. Video footage of the rebellion is mixed with interviews with Warsaw citizens who witnessed it.

Particularly moving is the Miasto Ruin (City of Ruins) film, a 3D reconstruction that illustrates the full wrath of the Nazi reaction. To give a sense of scale, in 1944 Warsaw had a dwindling population of 900,000. After the uprising, the capital was left with only about 1,000 people hiding among its remains. Open 8am-6pm Mon, Wed and Fri, until 8pm on Thurs; 10am-6pm Sat-Sun. Entry is 14zl (£2.80), Miasto Ruin 2zl (40p). Grzybowska 79; 1944.pl

Palace of Culture and Science

Turn right at the crossroads outside the entrance on to Grzybowska. Turn right again and walk for a couple of minutes to the tram stop on Towarowa, then take tram number 22 or 24 heading towards your destination, Centrum. After ten minutes you’ll approach the towering Palace of Culture. Constructed by Stalin in 1955 while Poland was under Communist rule, the menacing structure now houses museums, theatres and conference space for more than 3,000 delegates.

It costs 20zl (£3.90) to ascend to the 30th floor of the 231-metre-tall tower (open 9am-6pm daily) – the tiny lift is operated by a woman who sits inside, day in, day out. Once at the top, head to the western side for a view of one of Polish-American architect Daniel Libeskind’s works in progress, Zlota 44 – a high-rise apartment tower with a curved side that exaggerates its stature, currently surrounded by cranes. From the opposite side, you’ll see the new Warsaw stadium in the distance. Parade Square 1; pkin.pl

Nowy Swiat

Head back to Centrum and continue on the 22 or 24 tram to Museum Narodowe, which takes a couple of minutes. You’ll see an Empik Café on the street corner – head towards it, then turn on to Nowy Swiat. This street makes up part of the Royal Route, the path Poland’s kings took through the city to the Royal Castle. Nowy Swiat is also the city’s major shopping street and is lined with popular fashion brands, quirky independent stores, jewellers, cafés and bookstores (Leksykon at number 41 has its own cat sitting among the tomes, though it’s not very friendly). If you fancy a light snack – or a strawberry margarita – stop at Restaurant Frida, a Frida Kahlo-themed restaurant with lively music, colourful Mexican décor and nachos for only 12zl (£2.40). Ul Nowy Swiat 34; restauracjafrida.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Follow the Royal Route north on Nowy Swiat, then turn right at Swietokrzyska. Continue on to Tamka and you will soon see the Fryderick Chopin Museum to the right. Open since 2010, the 200th anniversary of the birth of the Polish composer, its flawless classical exterior looks like a stately home and inside there are spiral staircases and marble floors. Upon entry, visitors receive a micro-chipped ticket that allows them to interact with the exhibitions, which range from an audio narrative about Chopin’s life to videos about his lovers and muses.

In the dimly lit basement you’ll find a row of desks that look like pianos and stools. Upon each is an interactive book – turn the pages and new images and songs are projected on to them so you can enjoy Chopin’s nocturnes and mazurkas. You can also place a songbook on to a grand piano’s music stand, which initiates the projection of a video performance of the song you’ve picked. Open daily 11am-8pm; closed Mon. Entry is 22zl (£4.30). 1 Okolnik Street; chopin.museum/en

Royal Castle

Double-back to the junction of Nowy Swiat and Swietokrzyska and turn right on to Krakowskie Przedmiescie. If you have time, take a right when you see the wrought-iron gates to Warsaw University and ask for directions to the library’s garden, opened in 2002. Pyramid-shaped grass mounds, glass domes with creepers and the sound of water trickling against pebbles make this a tranquil space. Otherwise, keep walking until you reach the Old Town Square. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this colourful cobbled district was rebuilt just as it was before the uprising, funded by donations from citizens and the Communist authorities.

Zamek Krolewski, the Royal Castle, was reconstructed between 1971 and 1984. It is filled with royal treasures that were either cleverly hidden during the Second World War or guiltily returned afterwards. Buy a ticket for the “Castle Route”, which takes you through the decadent rooms of the king’s apartment, including the throne room, where 86 hand-embroidered silver eagles adorn the scarlet royal seat. Open Tues-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 11am-4pm. Entry is 22zl (£4.30), free on Sundays. Plac Zamkowy 4; zamek-krolewski.pl

Belvedere restaurant

If you have time to squeeze in one last stop, take a 15-minute taxi ride to Belvedere, located in an orangery in the Royal Bath Gardens and surrounded by Grecian statues and rose bushes. The restaurant is divided into two parts – one has a jungle feel, with rich greenery, and the other is more like a wedding marquee, with a white canopied ceiling. In the evening, both have a warm, candlelit atmosphere as the clientele unwind over delicious Polish food. I enjoyed a crayfish broth with uszka dumplings (36z/£7), and trout with mushrooms rolled in cabbage (49z/£9.70). Finish with a slice of apple pie and Calvados ice cream (28z/£5.50) – the strong yet sweet spirit complements the tart filling. Open 12pm-11pm daily. Agrykoli 1; tel +48 22 558 6700; belvedere.com.pl

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