Bracing fresh air and spectacular panoramas await the intrepid business traveller, who ventures beyond the CBD and usual lifestyle precincts. All of the experiences written by the Business Traveller team in the foloowing report are easily accessible by car, train or bus. The health and psychic rewards are inmeasurable.
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
After breakfast, we started from Kadewatan to enjoy an amazing view of the cliff leading to Ayung River and the forest. At the T-intersection past Cahaya Dewata Resort, we made a left to Jalan Campuhan. One of the pioneers of the Ubud art scene, Suteja Neka set up his incomparable Art Museum in the area. In the neighbourhood as well is Chris Salans’ Mozaic Restaurant, the first Southeast Asian establishment granted entry to the prestigious Les Grande Tables du Monde. Almost immediately opposite is Indus Restaurant, host of several Ubud Writers and Readers Festivals in the past.
Tucked in a small alley off Jalan Campuhan is Pura Gunung Lebah with its bright red and gold statues. Jalan Campuhan also leads to the Ubud’s main road where the Pura Agung, its main temple and Ubud Palace are found. The two attractions are separated by Jalan Suweta, where Ibu Oka, home of the world-famous suckling pig, is located.
Walking along Monkey Forest Road is not unlike walking in most urban areas, where banks, boutiques and cafés stand cheek by jowl, so move on quickly to reach the crossroads and then turn left toward Tegalalang. This is the place to spot and pick up unusual crafts. The artisans here are more than happy to tell you the story behind any item you are buying.
Peckish by now? We recommend you drop by Bali Buddha in Jalan Jembawan, two blocks east. Try its system-cleansing lemongrass-ginger drink. Everything here is organic, almost vegetarian, save for a few meat dishes like fish balls and beef burgers. The tofu and cashew curry on brown rice and mushroom pizza are the must tries. For dessert, order the carrot or chocolate mousse cake.
FITNESS LEVEL: Anyone with lots of curiosity and appetite for fun will enjoy this.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? Be sure to slap on the sunblock as Bali’s sun rays can be fierce.
GETTING THERE: If you stay in Ubud, you can start from your hotel, or have the hotel driver drop you off if you stay down south. Bali is pretty safe, so you can rest easy about walking by yourself.
Linda Salim
Yunmengshan, Beijing, China
About an hour’s drive from Beijing, Yunmengshan (“Cloud-Covered Mountain”) is renowned for its ranks of craggy rock formations, pierced by fast-flowing steams and decorated with overhanging cypress trees in a Chinese watercolour landscape. With one of the region’s most diverse environments, Yunmengshan has something to offer everyone from young families and neophyte hikers to more experienced camping and hiking enthusiasts, who quickly come to appreciate the fresh air, tranquillity and expansive, cloud-filled skies.
The main hike along a well-maintained trail to Yunmengshan’s highest peak (1,414m) is relatively easy and takes around four to five hours, depending on speed and stamina. The climb offers an array of spectacular sights, with boulders resembling giant marbles, cascading waterfalls, gushing streams and limpid pools.
The quietest and luckiest may catch sight of grazing deer, and in spring and autumn the surrounding vegetation is a profusion of colour.
It’s worth persevering to the top of the mountain, commonly known as “Little Huangshan” after the famous peak in Anhui Province, as the views are breathtaking. On a clear day those with a keen eye should be able to pick out the skyscrapers of downtown Beijing, believe it or not.
Yunmengshan is quietest on weekdays, but even on weekends, there’s enough space to give everyone a sense of seclusion.
The park is open from March through November, with April/May and late August/September the best months for a visit. Those on a day trip from Beijing should leave early to allow time for a comfortable ascent/descent, alternatively there is a modern hotel at Yunmeng Mountain Village with decent rooms and dishes featuring local produce.
FITNESS LEVEL: Yunmengshan caters to hikers of all abilities with a wide range of trails of varying length and steepness. The main hike to the top of the mountain is not that demanding and can be completed in around five hours at moderate pace with regular breaks. There are great views along the way, so even if hikers don’t reach the top, the effort is definitely worthwhile.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? Sturdy, worn-in hiking shoes are recommended, as are multiple layers of clothing (including rainwear) that can be added or removed according to temperature and bodily exertion. There are plenty of excellent picnicking spots, so pack lots of food and drink.
GETTING THERE: By car, take Jingshun Lu for about 30km to the Kuliushu Roundabout and then Jingmi (Beijing-Miyun) Road toward Miyun until the Yingbin Roundabout. Take National Road 111 and follow the signs. If you are going by bus, No. 936 travels direct from Dongzhimen long distance station to Yunmengshan. A taxi ride for an entire day will range from CNY400/US$57 to CNY600/US$86 (per car).
Many local agencies also offer tours to Yunmengshan. Park tickets: CNY46/US$6 for adults and CNY23/US$3 for children. tel 86 10 6162 2381
Daniel Allen
Aberdeen Reservoir, Hongkong
Savour the sights and sounds of Aberdeen Valley and its two reservoirs through gaps amid the greens as the tarmac footpaths make way for forested trails. The vegetation gradually thins further uphill to reveal Aberdeen Harbour and Ap Lei Chau, an island mass shaped like a duck’s tongue that’s known for its typhoon shelter and massed buildings near its tip at South Horizons.
At the end of the trail, Black’s Link offers panoramic views of Deep Water Bay and Lamma Island, all the way out to open sea. It’s best to make the trip in the late mornings when the temperature level is just nice.
FITNESS LEVEL: The trail spans over a total of 6.5km with a balance of ups and downs on mostly flat terrain, but there are some gruelling 200 steps up Black’s Link to scale before you finally reach the ending point. You don’t need to be a hiking veteran to conquer the trail, but it’s a plus if you had either lots of stamina and leg power, or any prior hiking experience. Leisure hikers are advised against going altogether.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? A bottle of water and a route map in your backpack are definite musts. Do also have a watch to keep track of progress, an umbrella to deal with wet weather, and insect repellent. For added luxuries, throw in a portable music player to keep your spirits up. A short-sleeved T-shirt, a pair of loose-fitting long trousers, thick socks and hiking boots are your best bet to a comfortable hike.
GETTING THERE: From Causeway Bay MTR station, flag a taxi and head for Aberdeen Country Park (nearest to the visitor centre). The journey costs HK$60 (US$7.70) and takes approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
Kenneth Cheong
Moganshan, Shanghai, China
As vast and featureless as it is – unless you count infinite factories, endless roads, and the great throbbing city of Shanghai itself as “features” – the Yangtze River Delta has to end somewhere. And so it does – it ends at a ring of mountains near Hangzhou, a couple of hours from downtown Shanghai. And here, in these blessed green hills, sits Moganshan, a cool, bamboo-clad oasis that draws Shanghailanders like butterflies to a fresh flower.
Modern-day residents of Shanghai are not the first to notice the airy charms of Moganshan. In the early 20th century, the city’s upper crust flocked to the mountain, where they erected an astonishing variety of villas, plantations, clubs and other playgrounds, all built from the signature local stone. And there they sit, patient graceful structures in various stages of gentle decay, that add enormously to the overall appeal of a hike in Moganshan. Even today, Moganshan is chiefly famous for three highlights: ancient villas, soft white clouds and wild green bamboo.
The entire mountain is generously laced with stone paths and steps and various wild walkways, and hiking on Moganshan is mostly about serendipity: turn here, and find an old mansion or a quiet clear pond; turn there, and find a restful pagoda with fine views of the scattered foothills.
Serendipity aside, most walkers will want to see Sword Pond Waterfall, a deep gorge sliced in the vertical rock and filled with charming ponds and wooden patios, and they will want to hike to the top of the mountain to admire the sights. So plan a loop, walk to the summit and to Sword Pond, and maybe to the Mao Museum – yes, Mao slept here – and White Cloud Castle, where Chiang Kai-shek honeymooned with Soong Mei-ling, and later met Zhou Enlai. Just for fun, compare the displays dedicated to Zhou with the ones dedicated to Chiang.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? The best time to visit Moganshan is in autumn, when the skies are clear, the maple leaves are red, and the air is filled with the sweet evocative smell of Osmanthus. Anybody can walk easily in Moganshan in a pair of good sneakers.
GETTING THERE: There are many routes to Moganshan. It’s a three-hour drive from Shanghai, but some visitors take a train to Hangzhou and proceed from there. Log onto www.moganshanlodge.com/howtogettoMoganshan.htm for more information.
Brent Hannon
Blue Mountains, Sydney, Australia
The Blue Mountains, Sydney’s main rural tourist attraction, is tantalisingly close to Australia’s biggest city and anchored by Blue Mountains National Park (within the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage area).
The locals love it – despite its multiplicity of tourist buses – because it’s possible to feel alone with nature (most tourists don’t hike, settling for cable car rides, views and lunch). A latticework of dozens of walks totals 140km of pathways. Walks start from all mountain villages. Hikers are spread across wide areas on walks ranging from half-hour ambles to one-week off-path challenges for the seriously fit. Climbers, cavers and cyclists also enjoy the variety in the terrain.
We have sampled many of this area’s well-signposted walks in the past. Our favourite is the Echo Point-Prince Henry Cliff Walk-Gordon Falls route, 5km each way. Start walking at, say, 10am and you should be back where you started – by the same route – around 3pm.
Echo Point is in Katoomba (ask directions at the railway station) with panoramas taking in the Jamieson and Megalong Valleys along with rock formations called the Three Sisters. Another prime look-out, at nearby Blackheath, boasts vistas of a rock formation called Govetts Leap. This particular walk is famed for its lookouts. Weekdays are quieter than weekends, but year-round, any day is good except when it’s raining heavily.
Gordon Falls isn’t the most impressive of waterfalls, but its wild setting is memorable. Trails yield vistas of native Australian blue-gum trees and dramatic cliffs. In a few places, it is possible to rock-hop across streams or climb up steps.
FITNESS LEVEL: This “medium” hike suits average fitness.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? Hiking boots are suitable but not essential (many use running shoes). T-shirt and shorts are appropriate summer gear, a sweater (remove if you’re hot) and jeans on chilly winter (mid-year) days. Sunhat and sunscreen are recommended all year. Tote a big bottle of drinking water. Carry a mobile phone (you’re in range; 000 is the Down-Under equivalent of some countries’ 999 emergency number). Many hike alone (you’ll probably encounter others), otherwise take a buddy. Tour operators run group walks (ask at your hotel).
GETTING THERE: Take a train from Sydney’s Central Railway (roughly hourly, most taking under two hours). Beyond suburbia, trips become scenic on their final 30 minutes’ climb. Or, rent a car to drive the 106km from downtown Sydney to Katoomba (1,017m above sea-level) where parking is safe.
Chris Pritchard
Yangmingshan, Taipei, Taiwan
Looming over the top of Taipei, and visible from just about everywhere in town, is the capital city’s dominant piece of geology: the tree-covered, jade-green peaks of Yangmingshan National Park.
There is no Yangmingshan itself. That’s the name of the area. The tallest peak is Qixingshan, or Seven Star Mountain, which looms 1,120m above the Taipei basin, and the second tallest is Mt Tatun, a bit further to the east, a pair of mountains that are the best hikes in the park.
So pack some water and food, grab a towel and a couple of raw eggs, and let’s hit the hills.
The trail to the top of Qixingshan is typical of Yangmingshan, with its steep stone steps, ultra-thick forests of banyan, camphor, oak, persimmon and maple, plush profusions of bamboo, and giant stands of primordial fern. After a sweaty hour of churning upward through the dark forests, the trail emerges into a bright meadow filled with silvergrass, and dotted restful pagodas and platforms that are perfect for having a snack and admiring the fantastic views.
The route down – one of them anyway – leads past Matsao Hot Springs, a yellow gash in the mountainside that bubbles with boiling water and sulphurous steam. Break those eggs, cook them for a few minutes, and enjoy as that’s what everyone else is doing.
Mt Tatun is a longer, less crowded walk, but like Qixingshan, it rewards the quiet, careful observer. The beautiful Formosan Blue Magpie frequents these deep dark woods, and frogs, salamanders, turtles, snakes and cicadas abound. In the springtime, the area comes alive with colourful exotic clouds of wild butterflies.
From atop Mt Tatun, as from Qixingshan, the views are magnificent: here, the world-weary urbanite can gaze upon the blue oceans to the west, the sprawling Taipei basin and the Keelung river to the south, and the green-clad flanks of the mountains themselves.
And then, when you’ve had enough, pull out that towel, order a cup of tea, and slip into one of the area’s many refreshing hot springs. You’ve earned it.
FITNESS LEVEL: Any moderately fit person can hike freely and safely in Yangmingshan.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? The best times to visit are spring and autumn. Bring a good pair of boots and a raincoat – northern Taiwan is one of the rainiest spots on earth. Any moderately fit person can hike freely and safely in Yangmingshan, but it’s always wise to bring a friend and a cell phone in case of an accident.
GETTING THERE: Follow Zhongshan North Road to Tienmu, then follow the signs to Yangmingshan National Park. Qixingshan is on the branch of Route 2 that heads to Jin Shan.
Brent Hannon
Mt Takao, Tokyo, Japan
Just 50 minutes west of Tokyo’s sprawling Shinjuku station, Mt Takao (also known as Takaosan) is one of Japan’s best city escapes. With a combination of easy access, interesting temples and great greenery, hikers feel a world away from the bustle of Tokyo life.
There are six routes up and down the sacred mountain, all easy to follow and most beginning just a few minutes from the station gates. The number one trail includes Yakuoin Temple built in 744 AD. It is the perfect place to catch your breath and enjoy the ornate carvings among the trees.
At the 600-metre-summit, enjoy views of the park below and the city beyond. Takao’s cable-car makes the mountain a popular location for those seeking the view without the climb, and the result is extremely busy national holidays and peak (spring and autumn) weekends. Try and visit midweek and you’ll find you have the mountain more to yourself.
FITNESS LEVEL: Low to medium, depending on the route taken. Each hiking trail is detailed on the map with approximate walking times. If a two-way hike doesn’t appeal, take the cable-car down again.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? In Japan, even the mountains are well equipped. At the base, there are shops and toilets and at the top, vending machines and a small selection of cafés serving simple Japanese fare. One of the nicest is a noodle café, which serves delicious, steaming bowls in a matter of minutes. All this means that, as long as you wear proper walking shoes, baggage can be kept to an absolute minimum.
GETTING THERE: From Shinjuku station, take the Keio line to Takaosanguchi. It takes 50 minutes and costs ¥370 (US$3.60).
Kate Graham
ELSEWHERE...
Uetliberg-Felsenegg, Zurich, Switzerland
A themed walk, along a stunning ridge of hills at Uetliberg. The Planetenweg (Planet Walk) follows the Solar system, with scale models of the planets along the way, starting at Uetliberg with the Sun the path blazes all the way to Pluto. Every metre you walk is the equivalent to one million kilometres in the Solar System, so you need not feel too guilty if you only get to Jupiter before you turn back.
The walk takes you along the ridge, through forests and open farmland to Felsenegg, where you can take the cable car down to Adliswil station and jump on a train back to Zurich. It’s best to go early, as the area is popular with locals and when I was tramping through the forest, I was happy to only have the odd deer spring into my path, for company. The good thing about the walk is that you can judge how far you have to go – if you don’t fancy walking all the way to Pluto, head back to the Top of Zurich Hotel (uphill, back where the Sun is) where you can climb a metal structure for great views or take a bite to eat at the restaurant.
FITNESS LEVEL: The first few minutes are quite steep, but then it becomes a gentle undulating walk.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? Take your camera and binoculars. You will get good views and there is plenty of wildlife to look out for on the way, including deer and birds of prey. Take waterproofs and something warm as the ridge is nearly 900m above sea level and it can get quite chilly.
GETTING THERE: From Zurich, take the S10 from Platform 2 at Hauptbahnhof (leaving every half an hour). The journey takes 20 minutes. Uetliberg is at the end of the line and the train stops next to a small café and shop. Walk up the steep steps, and along a gravel road, until you reach the driveway of the Top of Zurich Hotel. This is where you start the Planet Walk.
Felicity Cousins
Diamond Head Trail, Honolulu, Hawaii
Resting within a now-extinct volcanic crater, the trail was originally built in 1908 as part of the island chain’s coastal defence fort, with traces of an underground command centre in the crater’s interior. Look out for shiny calcite crystals embedded within the rock formations as you trek along a route with many switchbacks in between. You’d need to tackle the inclines and stairways while nearing the top, but the staggering views of the shorelines of Oahu from the observation post will be worthwhile returns for the effort made.
FITNESS LEVEL: Based on an easy-to-moderate difficulty scale, the 2.25-kilometre round-trip hike should not be too taxing for leisure hikers. Just take it slow while climbing up the various flights of stairways. The whole journey back and forth should be completed in about three hours, including rest breaks and stoppage times to marvel at the views.
WHAT TO BRING/WEAR? Have a bottle of water, sunblock and a torchlight to find your way about in the 68.5-metre tunnel, just in case the lights go out. Do bring a camera along to capture the breathtaking spectacles at the summit.
Temperatures in Hawaii’s tropics can reach highs of 28ºC to 32ºC, so a simple T-shirt and shorts will suffice if you decide to go in the mornings or early afternoons, where there are lesser crowds. However, you will need to tread on rough terrain, so don’t compromise on your footwear.
GETTING THERE: Hire a cab and direct the driver to the parking lots in Diamond Head State Monument, where the start point is. The park is open daily from 0600 to 1800 and visitors are required to pay a US$1 entrance fee. tel 1 808 587 0300, www.hawaiistateparks.org
Kenneth Cheong
SAFETY ALWAYS
- Bring a map with detailed route markings of your intended hiking trail. The signposts at forks may prove tricky and throw you off course.
- Choose your hiking boots wisely – one with deep corrugated soles that can provide optimal grip will reduce the chances of slip-ups.
- Have ready a bottle of mineral water to keep hydrated. Average trails are lengthy and go beyond the mere hour to complete, so it’s recommended to have the fluids to help stay refreshed throughout.
- Outfit yourself accordingly in case of wet weather. Have an umbrella and poncho on standby in your backpack.
- Forget the valuables. Bring minimal cash for transportation and meals.
- Pack a small first-aid kit to cope with potential injuries.
- Bring a buddy along if you can. Some sections of trails are relatively unfrequented and may be dangerous for lone hikers, especially women.
- It’s advisable to bring a mobile phone in case you need to contact someone during emergencies, but remember there could be bad reception in the more mountainous areas.
