Carlyn Law meets with unexpected adventure in the backwoods of Laos.
There we were – five of us crouched between cold dusty jagged walls in the pitch-black hole. Aided by two weak flashlights, we felt our way in the dark and soon found ourselves flat on our bellies dragging our body weight forward inch by inch. I bit my lips stifling a scream, as my heart started pumping.
Sandwiched between slabs of stones wasn’t my idea of fun, especially since I suffered from a mild case of claustrophobia. Nonetheless, it was unexpected adventure that found us deep within the majestic limestone mountains of Vang Vieng in central southern Laos. Also known as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, it is situated in the heart of Indochina, landlocked between Thailand, Myanmar, China, Vietnam and Cambodia.
Yes, you’d think I’d be silly to counter fate by going on an ill-informed caving exploration, but we were up for adventure transfixed by the languid, lush beauty of this backwater mountainous region. Some 160km north of the Laotian capital Vientiane, Vang Vieng is a rustic backpacker’s stopover that’s fast gaining popularity with eco-travellers and hackneyed city-dwellers. I was particularly lured there by picture-perfect postcards of its stunning landscape and promises of delicious organic offerings, but not in my wildest imagination, caving.
So after a four-hour drowsy coach ride from Vientiane, I was in Vang Vieng pillion-riding helmet-less on the back of a rented motorbike with my shoeless good pal Andy, both of us possessed by an incredulous sense of freedom. Earlier at our hotel, we had seen tour brochures advertising a host of activities, from caving and trekking to kayaking and river “tubing” excursions (imagine floating down the Nam Song river in a fat rubber tube and getting high on Beer Lao at riverside bars), but we threw caution to the winds and decided to explore the countryside guided by a hand-drawn map. After all, we were feeling rather spirited after a successful morning cycling trip to the town’s only organic farm 3km away on rented bicycles. Here, the air was clean, the sun shone bright and clear, the streams pristine and greenery luminous all around. We felt safe and carefree.
We retracted that notion later as we slithered out of Keo Kham cave alongside its resident guide (US$1 per person) and two other accidental Thai tourists, all of us sweaty, dusty but immensely relieved. Sure, caving is not for everyone, but I’d rank it as one of the highlights in Vang Vieng.
Plus, getting to the caves was half the fun as we ventured deeper into the tranquil fertile peaks on extremely bumpy dusty paths. Each time a heavy vehicle passed by, we held our breath and squinted our eyes, engulfed in a gust of red grime.
At the mouths of the caves, there was bound to be a bored caretaker collecting a small entrance fee. We didn’t visit every grotto as there were easily more than 10 identified ones, spread across 2km to 16km from Vang Vieng. Chang Cave is supposedly one of the more interesting picks where one climbs nearly 150 steps to be rewarded by a cool spring inside. Another is Pou Kham, nearly half an hour’s spine-shuddering ride away that houses a reclining Buddha.
On the way back, we rode into a vast, dry lemongrass field for a final glimpse of the looming mountains against a glorious sunset. The fading golden rays cast a beautiful silhouette across the breathtaking panorama. I gleefully jumped off the bike to shoot a herd of brown cows and a buffalo luxuriating in the cool Nam Song river alongside jovial bathing natives.
This petite town was a real gem, spread across three parallel stark roads, a disused air-strip and a network of humble low-rise quarters. It seemed lost in time, save for the invasive telltale signs of the 21st century such as the shoddy internet cafés and cable televisions blaring away at each restaurant.
We bypassed the loud, homogenised fast food and space pizza joints for a taste of the heavenly Pad Lao, vegetables tofu curry and mulberry shake at the modest yet charming Organic Farm café – a case in point to demonstrate that originality and freshness are worth sustaining in this new age of easy convenience. Despite its humble disposition, Laos unexpectedly won us completely. We think we’ll be back there pretty soon.
FACT FILE
GETTING THERE: Vang Vieng is accessible by road, four hours from Vientiane or seven hours from Luang Prabang. A reliable bus or coach service booked via your accommodation is cheaper at US$6.50 per pax than private taxis.
WHERE TO STAY: Pick from budget guesthouses to deluxe riverfront properties such as The Elephant Crossing and Ban Sabai Bungalows with rooms starting from US$25. Book via www.vang-vieng-hotels.com
EXCURSIONS: Trips can be arranged through your hotels and tour operators. Do not explore caves alone and make sure someone knows your whereabouts. Check out the Vanviang Organic Farm at www.laofarm.org
MOTORBIKE RENTAL: Shop around for rates at the rental shops. Bicycle rental from US$1.
WEATHER: May to October is wet while November to April is dry in Laos. Temperature varies according to altitude and may dip as low as 15ºC in mountainous regions. Best time to visit is the cool months of November-February.
CURRENCY: Keep small denominations of both local kip and US dollars in ready supply.
LANGUAGES: Lao and Thai are commonly used. Most tour operators speak basic English or in some instances French. If all else fails, try a grateful smile and memorise basic greetings such as Sabbai Dee (hello), Khopjai (thank you), Gahluna (please) and Laa koon (goodbye).
VISA: Best to check with your local embassy before departure. www.visit-laos.com
