London
The British capital is considered to be the international hub of bespoke fashion and its main thoroughfare, Savile Row, has undoubtedly become synonymous with the tradition of bespoke tailoring. One walk along Savile Row and you will see a host of world-famous houses, catering to the some of the most influential men. The likes of Joseph, Hardy Amies (remember Amies’ A to Z guide of men’s fashion?), Huntsman, and Richard Anderson line the street. However, enjoying pride of place at numero uno at Savile Row is the historic Gieves & Hawkes. Its imposing white building boasts a heritage that dates back to 1771. Today, the client list of Gieves & Hawkes reads like a who’s who of international society. Customers come here to enjoy the brand’s signature experience which includes high armholes, structured shoulders, double pleated trousers and double-breasted construction. While you’re at it, shop from a special accessories’ section curated by Ettinger accessories, which can be personalised on purchase.
Milan
Hailed as the fashion capital of the world, Milan is famous for its high-quality menswear offering. As you amble past the ritzy boutiques of Milan’s luxury district, Via Monte Napoleone, you will realise just how seriously the men here take their fashion. A host of legendary Italian names like Armani, Lanieri, Canali, Dolce & Gabbana and Sartoria A. Caraceni come to mind. If you are after a sharp Italian bespoke suit, head for a local favourite brand, Boggi Milano. This exquisite outlet that started off in 1939 as a humble tailor for Milanese men is now a fashion behemoth. Here at Boggi Milano you can enjoy its custom suit service, which is referred to as su misura (tailored). Boggi Milano works with a select set of Italian fabric producers to create typical Italian silhouettes. These suits are well-fitted, feature relatively more unstructured shoulders and pockets minus flaps. They have high buttons and the trousers are usually tight on the hip as well.
Paris
The French capital, a fashion mecca, has, since time immemorial, dictated the codes of style to the world. It is here that the culture of haute couture continues to prevail and set trends for the world over. In the very similar vein, Paris is a thriving hotbed of bespoke suiting. At the heart of the city’s upscale eighth arrondissement, the house of Dormeuil has been selling fine fabrics since 1842. Today, Dormeuil is not only renowned the world over for supplying suiting fabrics to bespoke tailors, but it also offers a bespoke suit experience to its customers at its Paris ateliers. This service is referred to as sur mesure (tailored) and has you sitting through a couple of highly detailed measurement and fitting sessions, before a second-skin-like French suit is prepared for you. Dormeuil’s offering, while firmly rooted in sartorial traditions, has also managed to successfully come up with a more modern and experimental offering, with bold colours, statement stripes and checks, as well as experimental textures. A truly Parisian experience!
Mumbai
The Indian business traveller who is looking for homegrown excellence will find an exquisite offering in Raymond, a brand that dates back almost a century. Raymond’s bespoke offering is now a viable option for discerning fashion consumers. Today, Raymond’s bespoke service is referred to as ‘Raymond Custom Tailoring’ and is available in select stores in India as well as a through a travelling tailor service, which you can book on their website. At Raymond, you not only enjoy a wide variety of in-house manufactured and imported fabrics but also the expertise of a team of specialised menswear stylists. These stylists have been trained keeping in mind Indian style sensibilities and are able to recommend and customise suits based on body type and lifestyle. The advantage that Raymond enjoys in its Indian stores is that it can effortlessly cater to Indian silhouettes in addition to western suits, the former largely being used as occasion wear, such as bundi jackets, bandhgalas and bespoke sherwanis.
Tokyo
If you’re in the Japanese capital anytime soon, you absolutely must visit Isetan Men’s. The pour homme offering of the iconic Japanese department store has an entire building dedicated to menswear. Ranging from fashion and footwear to accessories and grooming products, this eight storey building also features a fabulous suiting section (in addition to off-the-rack and made-to-measure selections). All the way from Naples in Italy, check out the Kiton space, which offers a host of exquisite Italian wool and cashmere fabrics, sourced from some of the most exclusive fabric-makers in rural Italy. These are then translated into an unparalleled bespoke experience, incorporating the Japanese meticulous eye for detail. Once you have selected your suit, you can put together an entire ensemble by heading for the footwear section, where you will find many Japanese luxury shoemakers, as well as the accessories section for things to go with your suit — silk ties, pocket squares, custom cufflinks and even quirky socks.
New York
At the heart of New York’s Manhattan borough, there is Madison Avenue, which is considered to be the nerve centre of American fashion. If you’re in the Big Apple, looking to get a customised suit, why not head to the flagship store of a quintessentially American brand — Brooks Brothers. A legacy label that banks largely on its sartorial heritage and unmistakable derby-meets-nautical vibe offers a splendid made-to-measure service with the help of its highly-trained crew of stylists and made-to-measure specialists, who focus on American-style suits. Buying an American-style suit from Brooks Brothers is particularly significant from the cultural point of view as they are considered to be the inventors of the American suit, characterised by a more relaxed fit, flap pockets, low armholes, single vents and a three-button construction. In addition, if you enjoy collecting accessories to go with your custom suit, Brooks Brothers specialises in fine-quality ties, tie pins, lapel pins and even bow-ties, if you’d like to ditch the formal look for a more quirky look.
Florence
Another Italian city that is considered to be a global hub of formal menswear is Florence. The fact that it hosts the bi-annual Pitti Uomo, the world’s most famous men’s fashion expo, exemplifies its tradition of bespoke tailoring. Florence insiders will tell you to avoid the larger brands and to hunt for smaller Florentine tailors that specialise in bespoke or su misura (tailored) suits, with high price points and rare fabrics. Most of these Florentine tailors work with local fabric producers and mills. The Sartoria Piero Cisternino specialises in both Florentine and Neapolitan suits, while the family-run Liverano & Liverano dates back to the 1950s and is frequented by many celebrities. On a more technical note, these Florentine tailors have a signature style where a single dart is created from the armhole to the pocket, representing a sense of symmetry between the lapel, which fuses with the collar. This is the Florentine touch!
