Two sides of Thailand

It came as no surprise when Bangkok was named Best Leisure Destination in Asia-Pacific at the recent Business Traveller Asia-Pacific awards. Frequently named one of the world’s top tourist destinations, this steamy metropolis is heaving with luxury offerings, from world-class spas to prime golfing resorts. The city is also a heady mix of old and new, with ancient temples dotted between sleek shopping malls, and Michelin-starred restaurants lined up against stylish nightclubs. While tourism wobbled slightly during the military coup in May this year, it wasn’t enough to dissuade visitors for long – and this year Bangkok was listed as the top overnight destination in the world in the Mastercard Global Destination Cities Index 2014 (see Datazone p33). The thriving Southeast Asian city is also a dynamic business hub, so if you’re in town for work, why not hang around for a few days once meetings are wrapped up? Otherwise, hop over for a long weekend of pampering and blow the budget.  

Before you can get stuck in to your luxury escape however, you must contend with the notorious Bangkok traffic. Getting from the airport to your destination is something worth thinking about in advance. The Airport Rail Line is the fastest option (THB45/US$1.5 for a 30-minute journey to the city centre), or public taxis are popular for door-to-door service (THB250-400/US$7-12; around 40 minutes depending on traffic). But to kick things off in style, consider a private limousine transfer, an option offered by many five-star hotels. I tested the St Regis Bangkok “Fast Track” service, where a personal escort met me directly off the plane at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport, whisked me through security and deposited me into a sleek air-conditioned Mercedes Benz S Class with complimentary bottled water. The service doesn’t come cheap (THB5,000/US$150 for two), but if you value comfort over cost, this is the best option by far. 

The route from the airport to the city is hardly picturesque, but there are some interesting sights that provide a window into Thai culture: giant billboards, for example, ask people to “stop disrespecting Buddha” with tattoos or figurines and hint at the deeply religious nature of the country. There are magnificent temples dotted about all over the city, and many of those pictured on the back of Thai Baht coins are located in Bangkok, such as the most sacred Wat Phra Kaew, Temple of the Emerald Buddha (featured on one Baht coin) or the stunning Wat Arun (pictured on the ten Baht coin). There are also many smaller shrines that provide an authentic insight into Thai culture. One busy tourist-friendly example is The Erawan Shrine on Ratchadamri Road, close to a number of five-star hotels including the Four Seasons, St Regis Bangkok and its namesake, the Erawan Hotel. Surprisingly in a country that is over 90 per cent Buddhist, it’s actually a Hindu shrine, but the four-faced Brahma God, Than Tao Mahaprom attracts a constant stream of locals and tourists alike, while a traditional Thai dance troupe perform in the background throughout the day. Guests are encouraged to join in with the ceremonial offerings, so after purchasing some incense and floral garlands, say a prayer or make a wish to Brahma’s first face on a topic regarding your career or academic pursuits, place your candle, hang your flowers and pay your respects. Repeat with faces two to four – but change the category of your entreaty. For the second face, consider issues like marriage, love and prosperity; fortune and wealth are dealt with by the third face; and approach the fourth face for health, family and harmony matters. 

If you’d rather worship at the house of fashion, Bangkok is home to a number of high-end shopping malls. Siam Paragon is one of the most popular megamalls, and houses more than 250 stores, top international brands, the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia and a 16-screen cinema (991 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan, accessible via Siam BTS Skytrain; siamparagon.co.th). 

For a truly extravagant spree, check out the recently opened Central Embassy Mall. This futuristic shopping mecca is home to an awe-inspiring line up of luxury stores, including Gucci, Prada and Ralph Lauren, plus a selection of fine-dining restaurants while you can check in at the Park Hyatt, a lavish six-star hotel, from 2016. It’s a shopaholic’s paradise, and yet by some miracle, is one of the few places that's devoid of crowds – a welcome respite in a city as frenetic as Bangkok (1031 Ploenchit Road, Pathumwan; accessible via Chit Lom or Ploenchit BTS Skytrain stations; centralembassy.com). 

If more indigenous goods are what you’re after, head directly to the Chatuchak market (BTS Skytrain to Mo Chit station, exit 1; open Sat and Sun 9am-6pm; chatuchak.org). Shop for handcrafted woodwork and dazzling silks amid a colourful maze of more than 15,000 stalls. Pack water and sunscreen, as it’s at least a half-day affair. 

If shopping isn’t your idea of heaven, perhaps Bangkok’s luxury golf courses will fit the bill. Golfing is a popular draw for weekend visitors with good reason. There are more than 40 pristine courses in gorgeous surroundings, and it’s relatively cheap compared to many Asian destinations. 

One example is the Summit Windmill Golf Club, located next to the newly opened Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Golf Resort & Spa, and 15 minutes to Bangkok city centre (789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Road, Km 10.5, Bangpleeyai, Bangplee, Samut Prakan; summitwindmillgolfclub.com). Designed by legendary golfer Nick Faldo, the 18-hole course features man-made lakes, rolling hills and landscaped gardens. For a slightly different experience, the par-72 championship-level course also offers nighttime golfing under floodlights (last tee off 8pm). With its proximity to the new hotel, which has a designated business centre, it’s an ideal location to add a bit of leisure to the end of a work trip (Green rate: THB1,500-4,000/US$46-122, closed on Mondays). 

After a day of temples, shopping or golf, it’s time to refuel. The problem is, virtually all food in Bangkok is a must-have, from the aromatic food stalls dotted about the balmy streets to the air-conditioned bliss of Michelin-starred restaurants like Nahm, for traditional Thai dishes in an upscale setting at the Metropolitan Hotel. If you’re in the mood for something a bit edgy, try the Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7; namsaah.com). This quirky little 20^th century villa with bright pink walls has an interesting history with decor to match. Comical sketches of Thai erotica are hung alongside antique mirrors and other eclectic decorations on brightly coloured walls. The Asian gastro bar concept was cooked up by Thailand’s first international celebrity chef, Ian Kittichai (of the acclaimed Kittichai Restaurant and Ember Room in New York, to name a few). Also on the managing board are nightlife experts Justin Dunne (ex-manager of famous nightspots Bed Supperclub and Ku De Ta) and Fred Meyer (international DJ manager). The result is a cool, intimate vibe with spectacular food and whimsical cocktail offerings. 

Remember to save room for dessert. And by dessert, we mean Bangkok’s amazing nightlife.  From the giddy views of stunning rooftop bars like Vertigo (61/F Banyan Tree hotel, 21/100 South Sathon Road, Sathon), to hot new hangouts springing up all over town, there is a diverse choice of cool venues. One such establishment is Maggie Choo’s, where an underground cabaret joint is hidden behind a secret curtain. The mood is a 1930’s Shanghai speakeasy; complete with glamorous cheongsam-clad girls perched on delicate swings and a live jazz band featuring class acts. It’s a chic, sexy atmosphere with a hint of mystery and the cocktail menu is exciting, with options such as a candyfloss martini to enjoy on plush leather sofas. Quirky smoking vaults at the back of the room add a memorable twist (320 Silom Road, basement of Novotel Fenix; Open daily 7.30pm-2am/3am Fri-Sat; Prices around THB340/US$10 for a cocktail or THB165/US$5 for a bottle of beer). Another upmarket hotspot is the W Hotel’s Woo Bar. Don’t be put off by the ‘hotel lounge’ tag, as true to its brand, this is an edgy, sociable space that attracts a fashionable, jet-setting crowd. The arty design, omnipresent purple glow and resident DJ add to the cosmopolitan vibe. The menu offers a range of signature cocktails and some light bites. Don’t be surprised to spot a few celebrities as glitzy fashion and music events are regularly held here (106 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak; whotelbangkok.com/woobar).

As the Chess song goes, “One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble.” After two, you are definitely ready to retreat from the buzz and seek a bit of solace. Luckily, Thailand is home to a number of beautiful islands, all promising paradise settings – the perfect place for a little R&R. An hour’s domestic plane ride and you can be a world away in one of these little jewels, like Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan or the perenially popular Phuket, the largest of the Thai islands.