Singapore may not be a typical wildlife or walking destination, but Michele Koh Morollo reveals a city with a wealth of green spaces, each with their own character
While most travellers know Singapore as an urban jungle of skyscrapers and mega-malls, there is another side to the city that allows you to step away from the bustle and reconnect with nature.
If you have some spare time and are looking to stretch your legs, get some fresh air or enjoy the country’s biodiversity, then these spots are well worth exploring.
PULAU UBIN
This 10 sq km boomerang-shaped island to the north-east of Singapore is home to one of the last kampongs (traditional Malay-style rural village) in the country.
Exploring it is like travelling back in time to the Singapore of the 1960s. There are still plenty of villagers living here, and many still rely on subsistence farming and fishing, wells for their water supply and diesel generators for electricity.
Pulau Ubin was once a granite mining area that contributed to the livelihood of a few thousand settlers, so the terrain now comprises a series of undulating granite hills. Abandoned quarries create dramatic landscapes, while secondary forests and grasslands imbue the island with an unexpectedly wild frontier spirit.
When you get off the boat at Ubin Jetty, head west and you’ll arrive at Ubin Town, where you’ll find bike rental shops and stalls selling tasty barbecued meat skewers.
Stop for a snack, washed down by a fresh coconut juice, before exploring the island. Look out for the large stage in the centre of the town, where traditional performances of wayang – classical Javanese shadow puppetry – and Chinese opera have been regular fixtures for many years. The nearby Tua Pek Kong temple next door is also worth a visit.
If you want to get some exercise, walk or cycle along the peaceful roads lined with swaying coconut palms. To get a good 360-degree perspective of island life, join the Pulau Ubin Tree Trail, which will take you through old rubber and coconut plantations, past candlenut and attaps, and the home of a former village leader, before ending at a Tudor-style heritage house.
Alternatively, bring a book and a towel and simply unwind on one of the secluded beaches.
On the eastern tip of Pulau Ubin are the Chek Jawa Wetlands (open 8.30am-6pm daily; free entry), which are about a 40-minute hike from Ubin Jetty. This 100-hectare nature reserve encompasses a rich diversity of wildlife among its mangrove swamps, sandbars, coral reefs, coastal forest and seagrass lagoon, including pipefish and seahorses, monitor lizards, kingfishers, and even wild boar. Peer over the 1km-long boardwalk to look out for starfish and crabs – and maybe even a glimpse of coral.
How to get there
Head to Changi Village bus terminal, which is served by bus services 2, 29, 59 and 109, and then walk 100 metres to the ferry terminal. From there, you can take a ten-minute “bumboat” ride (S$2.50/£1.25) to Ubin Jetty. The vessel goes whenever it has a dozen passengers.
Ideally, start your journey in the morning and catch an early evening ferry back to the main island.
KRANJI COUNTRYSIDE
Beside the Kranji Reservoir lies Singapore’s last agricultural bastion. Kranji Countryside, in the north-west corner of the island, is a place where visitors can enjoy a small collection of farms, fisheries and historical sites, and experience an almost forgotten way of life.
Since the 1960s, rapid urban development has replaced much of the country’s arable land. As a result, only 1 per cent of the island nation’s 710 sq km area is used for farmland today, with agriculture accounting for just 1 per cent of labour activities.
To conserve and raise awareness of this small but precious aspect of Singapore’s heritage, a group of farmers formed the Kranji Countryside Association to promote local agriculture and environmental sustainability.
Their efforts have transformed the Kranji Countryside into a leisure and educational hotspot where you can learn about farming practices, enjoy good food and purchase produce at the quarterly farmers markets. Give yourself at least half a day here, as there is plenty to see and do.
There are close to 40 organisations at Kranji, including koi carp fisheries, farms that specialise in breeding frogs and crocodiles, orchid nurseries, agro-technology firms, dairies and organic vegetable growers. A dozen or so are open to the public (visit kranjicountryside.com for details).
Other places worth a stop include Bollywood Veggies’ Poison Ivy Bistro (tel +65 6898 5001; bollywoodveggies.com), which serves up wholesome farm-fresh food such as delicious homemade banana bread.
The Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve (open 7am-7pm daily; sbwr.org.sg) encompasses 130 hectares of mangroves, mudflats and rainforests, and is rich with wildlife, including endangered migratory birds such as the masked finfoot and Nordmann’s greenshank.
Thinking of spending the night in the area? Check into the D’Kranji Farm Resort (dkranji.com.sg), which provides cosy villas with balconies, a “fishing village” offering prawn catching for S$18 (£9) an hour, and the Swiflet Garden Museum, where you can learn about the famous edible bird’s nest – a prized Asian delicacy.
For history buffs, the Kranji War Cemetery honours the thousands who died in the line of duty during the Second World War. This peaceful hilltop cemetery (open 7am-6.30pm daily; cwgc.org) has the names of nearly 4,500 individuals from all over the Commonwealth inscribed upon its graves.
How to get there
Take the MRT train to Kranji station, then catch the Kranji Countryside Express bus for S$3 (£1.50).
MACRITCHIE RESERVOIR PARK
A well-loved destination among Singaporeans, MacRitchie Reservoir Park (open 7am-7pm daily; free entry) is a slice of serenity in the heart of the city-state.
Constructed in 1867, it was Singapore’s first manmade water supply, built in response to the island’s growing need for fresh water.
It is a popular spot for walking, kayaking, picnics and marathon training sessions and is equipped with showers, lockers, food kiosks and eateries.
Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the tropical rainforest from the 250-metre high Treetop Walk – a freestanding suspension bridge between the park’s two highest points. Look out for squirrels, long-tailed macaque monkeys grooming their young, monitor lizards, and even flying lemurs and owls.
Fuel up on local favourites such as laksa or beef stew at Mushroom Café (tel +65 6254 7975), or enjoy a cocktail at Vava Bistro (tel +65 6353 3220; vavabistro.com.sg).
How to get there
Several buses stop on Lornie Road in front of the park. If you are departing from Orchard Road, take bus 132 or 167. Marymount or Caldecott MRT stations are the closest.
THE SOUTHERN RIDGES
The Southern Ridges is a 10km-long channel that connects a handful of green spaces, including Mount Faber Park, Telok Blangah Hill Park, Hort Park, Kent Ridge Park and Labrador Nature Reserve (many of which are open 24 hours and well lit at night time).
Hiking its full length is a great way to enjoy panoramic views of the city, harbour and Southern Islands. Henderson Waves, the highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore, connects Mount Faber Park to Telok Blangah Hill Park and is eye-catching not only for the spectacular views it provides but also its unusual wave-patterned structure.
The entire Southern Ridges walk takes up to five hours to complete, from Mount Faber Park to Kent Ridge Park, but there are shorter options. Eight trails take you through the various parks, each of which has its own character.
At the top of Mount Faber is the Sentosa Island cable-car station, and an entertainment and leisure complex called Faber Peak Singapore with restaurants, gift shops and viewing decks. Telok Blangah Hill Park was once a gathering place for trading communities, which flourished here in the early 19th century.
A symbol of the prosperity at that time is Alkaff Mansion, a regal colonial bungalow built by an Arab trader, which now serves as an event venue. Get a DIY foot massage as you walk on the reflexology footpath here, or simply enjoy a superb vista of the city from the park’s Terrace Garden.
Hort Park is a one-stop-shop for everything related to gardening, with interactive displays and regular horticultural events. The adjoining Kent Ridge Park has a total of 20 fitness stations, as well as various lookout points. It is also home to tembusu and acacia trees, many exotic species of birds and insects, and even wild orchids.
On the eastern side is a pond teeming with turtles and koi. Nearby lies the site where one of the last battles to defend Singapore during the Second World War was fought – the Reflections Bukit Chandu Museum (nhb.gov.sg) tells the story.
In Labrador Nature Reserve, you can hear the songs of 70 different bird species, including oriental magpie-robins and black-naped orioles, and maybe catch a glimpse of one of 30 species of butterfly that live here.
Take a walk along the Berlayer Creek Mangrove Trail and the foothill of Bukit Chermin Boardwalk to observe this spectacular coastal habitat, or examine various remnants from the war, such as artillery pieces and secret tunnels. Hungry? Tamarind Hill Restaurant (tel +65 6278 6364; tamarindrestaurants.com) serves exquisite Thai food.
How to get there
For information on how to access the various trails, visit nparks.gov.sg.
