Features

Hong Kong restaurants: The great outdoors

25 Nov 2011 by BusinessTraveller

Hong Kong might be an urban jungle but al fresco oases can be found all over town, says Reggie Ho. At this time of year, the weather in Hong Kong is at its best – the temperature stays mostly in the high teens and low 20s, and humidity is generally mild. People in the city take advantage of it in different ways. While those who enjoy nature head for the territory’s abundant country parks, urbanites flock to the al fresco food and drink venues in town. European-style streetside cafés and bars are rendered impossible in Hong Kong because of overbearing licensing laws, but in recent years, more and more restaurants are opening upstairs locations with outdoor terraces. Many hotels have also turned their open-air spaces into dining and drinking areas. Ironically, it was another law that encouraged these places to flourish – in January 2007, statutory no-smoking regulations were extended to cover restaurants. But patrons can still smoke when seated in an outdoor area, so any eatery that offers one has the upper hand. Here are some venues that have opened or been revamped in the past year.

Riva And The Deck

This fine-dining restaurant on the 27th floor of the Park Lane hotel has been around for decades, but its outdoor area, which seats 35 guests, opened in August. The disused roof space has now been transformed into the Deck, a drinking venue with a commanding view of Victoria Park, Hong Kong’s largest urban green space. The décor consists of wood-panelled flooring and sofas, and there are tall tables and high chairs for smaller groups. What’s great about it is the feeling of openness – the glass fence is just tall enough to ensure safety, but does not obstruct the view. As we went to press, permission was being sought to allow food to be served here, but in the meantime, those dining inside happily make this place their postprandial hangout. After 8pm on Fridays and Saturdays, a minimum charge of HK$188 (£15.50) applies, except to guests. Drink prices are the standard for a four-star hotel, with a glass of wine starting from about HK$80 (£6.50).

Open 12pm-12am. Park Lane Hong Kong, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay; tel +852 2839 3327; parklane.com.hk

Armani/Prive

The three-storey Armani lifestyle complex has changed its food and drink outlet every few years – first it was the bright and airy Emporio Armani Caffe, then the more Sex and the City-like Armani bar. Now it has become a double venue – Armani/Aqua and Armani/Privé. The first is a restaurant offering Italian and Japanese cuisine, managed by the Aqua Restaurant Group, the company behind heritage hotel Hullett House in the Tsim Sha Tsui commercial district, and other bars and eateries in Hong Kong, Beijing and London. The second is a bar with an outdoor terrace. Design-wise, it is not all that impressive, with the interior looking much like any other club you might find in the city. The service wasn’t perfect either when I visited on a Saturday afternoon, as I was given the wrong drink. But the location makes it all worthwhile. You are in the middle of Central District, and everywhere you look are shiny skyscrapers and elaborate shop fronts for international luxury brands. The crowd, it goes without saying for Armani, also tends to be good-looking, with a mix of locals and expats. Expect to pay about HK$124 (£10) for a drink.

Open Mon-Sat, second-floor bar 4pm-late, third-floor terrace 5pm-late; closed Sun. Chater House, 8 Connaught Road Central; tel +852 3583 2828; armaniprive-hk.com

Assaggio Trattoria Italiana

Located on the sixth floor of the Hong Kong Arts Centre in Wan Chai North, east of Central District and where the government headquarters and the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre are located, this venue was once home to a restaurant called Open Kitchen. Now, Miramar Hotel and Investment Company, which owns the Mira hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui, has turned the space into a stylish trattoria with brick walls, dark wood and an open kitchen offering counter seating. The décor is deliberately aged to create a rustic feel and the restaurant claims to offer an atmosphere more akin to a market, but you really won’t be fooled into thinking you’re in small-town Italy. With dinner easily ringing up over HK$750 (£61) per head with wine, it’s a rather upmarket trattoria experience. The food is good – both the pasta dishes and pizzas are recommended, and if you still have room, there is a range of seasonal secondi piatti to choose from. The outdoor terrace has been transformed from a dusty fenced-in area into a well fitted-out wooden deck with high tables and big umbrellas. There are five tables outside, each seating up to six people, and from here you can see Victoria Harbour and the iconic seagull-shape Convention Centre.

Open 11.30am-11pm. Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, Wan Chai North; tel +852 2877 3999; assaggio.hk

T Garden

Nathan Road is the artery of Kowloon Peninsula and there is never a dull moment walking along this thoroughfare, with commercial activities of all kinds buzzing day and night. But while the Tsim Sha Tsui section of the road is tree-lined and feels very cosmopolitan, with five-star hotels and boutiques, once you go north of Austin Road into Jordan, things become a little more chaotic. There are about a dozen bars on the little streets and in the upstairs of commercial buildings, but if you want a decent place to go for a cocktail, head to one of the hotels in the area. Langham Hospitality has rebranded one of its four-star properties here from Eaton Hotel to Eaton Smart, and part of the HK$10 million (£815,000) project was to make the public areas more slick and tech-smart. Another delightful result is the T Garden, the outdoor area of the T Bar. It has a Zen-like feel, with graphite flooring contrasting with bamboo trees and limestone screens to create a sense of intimacy. A stone eagle statue on one side represents the name of the hotel’s parent company, Great Eagle. Although this is the lobby level, you are actually on the fourth floor, so there is no problem with traffic noise. If you sit facing the hotel, you can admire the vertical garden in the lobby through the glass wall. Wines, beers and cocktails cost from HK$50 (£4), and snacks are available, including Italian- and Spanish-themed sharing platters (HK$98/£8 each). T Garden is open to all customers of the food and drink outlets on the same floor.

T Garden open 7am-1am, T Bar open Mon-Thurs 3.30pm-1am, Fri-Sun 4.30pm-2am. Eaton Smart, 380 Nathan Road, Kowloon; tel +852 2710 1866; hongkong.eatonhotels.com

Sugar Bar, Deck and Lounge

On the rooftop of East, a sleek, 32-floor hotel, this bar became an instant hit when it opened two years ago. The name of the property relates to its location in Quarry Bay, a district on the east side of the urban strip along Victoria Harbour. The area has been developed and branded Island East by Swire Properties, one of Hong Kong’s most influential developers (East is owned by subsidiary, Swire Hotels). On one side is Taikoo Shing, a premier residential neighbourhood, and on the other is Taikoo Place, a relatively new business district favoured by advertising, public relations and publishing companies. Many customers of Sugar are the young and fashionable types from these offices. After only two years, the management decided to remodel completely Sugar’s outdoor area. Previously, there was a counter at the far end that felt cut off and obstructed the view. The space has now been opened up, with plants used to create semi-private areas. Seating mostly consists of lounge chairs and huge square-shaped sofas where customers can sit, lean or even lie down, and a pop-up bar can be assembled when needed, adding flexibility. But what’s impressive about the new set-up is that more people can enjoy the view of the harbour. The bartenders can whip up great cocktails (from HK$95/£7.50), including original creations, and a dozen wines are available by the glass (from HK$80/£6.50). Small bites on offer include chunky Cajun fries and crispy fried spiced beef balls, while heartier options include pizza, satay Malay boleh (meat with a peanut dip) and Mexican braised beef nachos. There are platters for sharing, priced at HK$120-HK$180 (£10-£14.50).

Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am, Sun 1pm-11pm. East, 29 Taikoo Shing Road, Island East; tel +852 3968 3738; sugar-hongkong.com

Wet Deck

Since the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong opened in March 2011, its Ozone bar – one of the world’s highest, on its 118th floor – has attracted much attention. While it is a nice place to hang out, the outdoor terrace is rather narrow and surrounded by beams and a glass fence, so you don’t really feel as if you’re in an open area. Not content to let its newer neighbour monopolise the limelight, W Hong Kong has opened “the highest poolside bar in Hong Kong” on its 76th floor – the Wet Deck. Opened in summer 2011, it has become a popular venue for parties. The venue features a two-storey mosaic wall and offers sweeping views of the harbour and the modern architecture of West Kowloon. It is a great place to eat, with dishes on offer including spicy Thai beef salad with chilli lime dressing, Peruvian swordfish ceviche, miso marinated cod fillet and W beef burger. They are reasonably priced, from HK$45 (£3.50) to HK$280 (£23), with cocktails from HK$100 (£8). As the venue is often booked for private functions – it can host 200 people – it’s advisable to call ahead. With its closing time being earlier than other places, it is better to come for post-work drinks or a casual dinner than late-night drinking, except when there are special themed parties, which often last until midnight.