Features

Taste: Washington DC

31 Oct 2013 by GrahamSmith
Kate Parham samples a quartet of restaurants in America's capital

OLD - The Bombay Club

This elegant Indian restaurant, located close to the White House, opened its doors in 1988. Its founder is Ashok Bajaj, an Indian immigrant who has helped put DC’s food scene on the culinary map with eight restaurants across the city. Expect live piano music and chivalrous service from smartly dressed waiters who carry plates of authentic dishes with modern twists, such as flash-fried rocket with date-tamarind chutney, pork chop vindaloo, and tangy mustard scallops garnished with tomato and coriander. Groups should opt for the Club thali (US$22), a platter chock-full of spicy curries and sweet rogan josh served with lentils, raita and piquant rice. Open Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm (Fri-Sat until 11pm, Sat dinner only, Sun until 9.30pm). 815 Connecticut Avenue; tel +1 202 659 3727; bombayclubdc.com

NEW - Table

Belgium native Frederik du Pue came to the US to serve as a chef for the Delegation of the European Union, and later started a catering company, 42 Degrees, cooking for events at DC’s many embassies. In January, he struck out on his own and opened his first restaurant in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Shaw. Table is an intimate, cosy eatery (think warm wood, herbs growing in pots and an open kitchen) and is housed in a former taxi repair garage. The focus is on local, seasonal dishes with a handwritten menu that changes almost daily. Favourites include scallop ceviche with sweetcorn flan and plantain chips, crispy duck with rum-raisin figs, and ravioli stuffed with escargot bathed in ratatouille coulis. Expect to spend about US$55 for three courses (before wine). Open Mon-Thurs and Sun 5pm-10pm (also 11am-2pm on Sun). Fri-Sat until 11pm. 903 North Street; tel +1 202 588 5200; tabledc.com

BORROWED - Dukem

Washington is home to a wide variety of cuisines, but, believe it or not, Ethiopian is one of the most prevalent – the city has more Ethiopian eateries than any other outside of Africa. At the intersection of Ninth and U Street lies Little Ethiopia, where injera, a slightly spongy flatbread, and wot, a hearty stew accented with chillies, reign supreme. Dukem is a local favourite – diners can choose from three levels of heat at this eat-with-your-hands hotspot, and live Ethiopian music packs the house on weekends. Most diners opt for the lamb tibs (US$16.50), where the meat is grilled and marinated in a secret homemade sauce, while vegetarians will love the combination platter. Cool things down with a glass of honey wine (US$7). Open 11am-2am (3am Fri- Sat). 1,114 U Street; tel +1 202 667 8735; dukemrestaurant.com

VIEW - 2941

Bigwig politicos and humble citizens alike frequent chef Bertrand Chemel’s Falls Church address. A quick 15-minute cab ride from DC proper, it’s well worth the trip for the postcard-worthy lakeside views this tucked-away oasis offers – the restaurant is surrounded by waterfalls and koi ponds, and features world-class artwork. If you can tear your eyes away, you’ll find a bustling bar and recently redesigned menu – fresh and approachable fine-dining that showcases updated US classics with a French or Mediterranean slant (try the American wagyu steak tartare with basil-mint aioli, or pan-seared halibut crusted with black garlic). A five-course tasting menu is US$85 (wine pairings are an extra US$45). Open Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-9.30pm; Sat 5.30pm-10pm. 2,941 Fairview Park Drive; tel +1 703 270 1500; 2941.com
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