Features

Taste: Hong Kong

30 Nov 2012 by BusinessTraveller
Reggie Ho tries out a quartet of restaurants in the city-state.

OLD

Lin Heung Lau

Originally a pastry shop in Guangzhou (then Canton) in the 1880s, Lin Heung Lau later became a famous Cantonese eatery and expanded to Hong Kong in 1918. This branch is still managed by the founding family and serves authentic dim sum early morning to late afternoon. Be prepared for chaos – reservations are not taken and you’re likely to be sharing a table with strangers. Once you have an order slip, you must also chase the dim sum trolleys or tussle with the crowd at the kitchen door to get the more popular dishes, such as har gow (shrimp dumplings), char siu bao (roast pork buns) and what devotees say is the best ma lai gao (Chinese sponge cake) in town. Dinner is full service, and courses are bigger and more expensive, with braised stuffed duck a signature.

  • Open daily 6am-11pm (dim sum served until 4pm). 160-164 Wellington Street, Central; tel +852 2544 4556

NEW

Boqueria

The first overseas branch of a US chain of tapas bars that started in New York, this new addition to the foodie LKF Tower opened in September and offers a tempting taste of Barcelona. The open kitchen, high chairs, Moorish tiles and hanging legs of Iberico ham nod to the market after which the restaurant is named. Staples such as gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns) and seafood paella cooked in lobster broth are done well. More unusual dishes include dates wrapped in bacon and stuffed with almonds and Valdeón cheese – delicious. The wine list is modest but well chosen, and prices are reasonable.

  • Open Mon-Wed 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm; Thurs-Sat 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm until late; Sun 6pm-11pm. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central; tel +852 2321 8681; boqueria.com.hk

BORROWED

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

The only three-Michelin-starred Italian restaurant outside of Italy, this sophisticated establishment is the creation of brilliant chef-owner Umberto Bombana, who headed up Toscana in the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong before the property relocated to Kowloon. The masterchef has always been respected but it seems that with Otto e Mezzo he has been able to shine even more, as one can see in dishes such as Tajima short rib and beef tenderloin with red wine and plum sauce, and homemade tagliolini, Boston lobster, bottarga, rucola and hot peppers. The space is decorated with Bombana’s own collection of art, including Warhols and Picassos, and the “ageing cellar” of ham and cheese is also a stand-out feature. Prices are high, but the two-course set lunch is good value at HK$380 (£31).

  • Open Mon-Sat 12pm-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm; bar 12pm-late. Shop 202, Landmark Alexandra, 18 Chater Road, Central; tel +852 2537 8859; ottoemezzobombana.com

VIEW

BLT Steak

The initials stand for “Bistro Laurent Tourondel”, after the celebrity chef who imported his successful American steakhouse concept from New York to Hong Kong in early 2009. The menu features prime cuts (starting at HK$278/£23) from the US and Australia, with the usual sides of grilled asparagus, creamed spinach and potato gratin alongside black truffle mac and cheese, and jalapeno mashed potato. There are also poultry and seafood dishes, and a global wine list with many by-the-glass options. The food has won praise, but many frequent BLT for its fantastic waterfront location and open-air ambience. If you can, book a table on the outdoor deck, from where you can admire a view of the harbour and skyline. There is a brunch buffet on weekends.
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