Features

Taste Guangzhou

30 Nov 2014 by Valerian Ho

OLD

PANXI RESTAURANT

The Cantonese restaurant takes its name "Panxi" after one of the five little rivers near the restaurant, but the standout feature of this popular eatery is the large garden and courtyard overlooking Liwan Lake. Together with Bei Yuan Cuisine and Nan Yuan Jiu Jia, it is one of the three biggest garden restaurants in Guangzhou. 

In fact, it was once an imperial garden of the Southern Han kingdom, during the Five Dynasty and Ten Kingdom period. In 1947, Li Wen Lun opened a store on the site, selling local food. The small shop subsequently underwent renovations and new management, before being named a heritage site under state protection by the Guangzhou government in 1995. 

Overall, the 12,000 sqm area resembles an ancient Chinese palace. There are several indoor dining areas, with long Chinese-style corridors, fake rock mountains and fish pools decorating the connecting passages. However, we chose to sample the dim sum while enjoying a boat ride on the lake. This included the restaurant’s signature rabbit-shaped shrimp dumpling (RMB23/US$3.80) and an almost savoury water chestnut cake (RMB8/US$1.30). RMB10 (US$1.60) is needed for a 15-minute ride on the Liwan Lake, while longer rides will cost RMB50 (US$8.20).

 

NEW

WILBER’S

If you’re looking for privacy, consider Wilber’s – one of the newest restaurants in Guangzhou. The three-storey restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored colonial-era villa and surrounded by trees, creating a natural, secluded area for guests. 

The architecture is from the 1920s, and the restaurant still features the old-style windows and stairs. The owner has also added some of his favourite decorations, including Broadway pictures on the wall alongside lyrics composed by Stephen Sondheim. There is also a leafy patio area on the top floor.

The restaurant serves European dishes and changes the menu regularly. We sampled the five-course set menu (RMB350/US$57) and started with foie gras en torchon with fig jam, followed by oxtail broth with beetroot and yoghurt. For the main course, the rib-eye steak served with dauphinoise potatoes and roasted bone marrow was a delightful pairing of complementary textures; tender rib-eye; smooth potato; and the jelly-like bone marrow.

After dinner, why not grab a drink at 29 Bar on the ground floor? Over a hundred wines are available, or alternatively, have the bartenders stir up your favourite martini (RMB45/US$7.40 to RMB78/US$12.80). You could also take your drink outdoors and chill out under the shade of the trees.


VIEW

THE RIVER OYSTER BAR AND GRILL

It’s not always about height when it comes to spectacular city views; enjoying a peaceful riverside vista can sometimes be a superior alternative. The River Oyster Bar and Grill, situated on the banks of Zhujiang River, is one such place. The Western-style restaurant occupies part of the 20,000 sqm Party Pier area, which features over 800 metres of shorelines and is a hotspot for parties, food and fun, while the views also draw painters hoping to capture the beauty.  

Pride of place is a triangular oyster bar, showcasing a wide range of oysters from as far afield as France and New Zealand, while the dining area itself has been designed with floor-to-ceiling windows.  The restaurant only opens in the evening, meaning guests can enjoy night views of the Zhujiang New Town, Haixinsha Asian Games Park and Guangzhou Tower. 

The menu changes every three months, and we sampled the current four-course set dinner (RMB460/US$75). Highlights included the starter of corn and crabmeat soup, which was very tasty with well-matched ingredients. The chef also added a spoon of caviar, increasing the freshness of the whole dish. The main course was a generous helping of porcini risotto with perfectly grilled tiger prawns and Parmesan cheese. Generally, the restaurant provided good, unhurried service, giving you time to finish one dish before the next was served. 

After dinner, you can grab a glass of wine at the oyster bar, however it is recommended to go up one more level to the rooftop bar and chill-out with friends.

 

BORROWED

NOBLE RESTAURANT AND BAR

In a cosmopolitan city like Guangzhou, you will find a wide range of restaurants specialising in international cuisine. In Zhujiang New Town, in the central business district of Tianhe, is a particularly great French restaurant – Noble Restaurant and Bar, which has become a favourite lunch or dinner option for those
who work nearby.

The restaurant is elegantly designed and filled with authentic French-style decorations. Though it’s often busy with people dining and chatting on closely set tables, the atmosphere remains comfortably cosy rather than overcrowded. There is also an outdoor area, which is a pleasant place to have dinner overlooking the colour-changing Guangzhou Tower during the cooler months. 

The menu changes every three months and offers a wide range of French dishes. We tried a six-course menu (RMB458/US$75). You can see the chef’s diligence in the artful presentation of each dish. The starter was a chilled seafood platter, offering oysters, sea whelk, and New Zealand scampi that tasted like it had just been plucked out of the sea. The pan-fried duck liver with stewed pear and red wine sauce was tender and delicious. There is also a bar area where you can enjoy a drink after dinner.

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