Michelle Mannion soaks up the rich art and design culture of Sweden’s watery capital.
MODERNA MUSEET
The best way to see a city comprised of 14 islands is via the water, so begin by catching the hop-on hop-off sightseeing boat from Nybroplan, in central Stockholm. The boat costs Kr 40 (£4) for one stop or Kr 100 (£9.50) for a 24-hour ticket. Take a brief two-stop journey to Skeppsholmen and en route you’ll see the grand houses of Strandvagen, one of the city’s most exclusive streets, and the restored 17th-century warship Vasa, now a museum (vasamuseet.se – if you have time, jump off and have a look).
The peaceful green island of Skeppsholmen is home to Moderna Museet, an impressive art gallery showcasing works from the 1840s to the present. Here you’ll find pieces by Picasso, Pollock, Irving Penn (pictured, Mouth for L’Oréal, 1986), Warhol, Magritte and Bacon, as well as Dali’s mind-bending The Enigma of William Tell. Until the end of the year, there is a sizeable photographic exhibition. From October 8 until January 15, works by Turner, Monet and Twombly will also be exhibited. Open Tues 10am-8pm, Wed-Sun 10am-6pm; entry is Kr 100 (£10) or free with a Stockholm Card (Kr 425/£40 for one day). Visit modernamuseet.se
FOTOGRAFISKA
You’re not done with art yet – hop back on the boat and take it three stops to Fotografiska, passing by the Grona Lund fun fair, in operation since 1883 and home to heart-stopping rollercoasters and drop rides. Open since May last year, Fotografiska is housed in an art nouveau industrial building on the southern island of Sodermalm and plays host to some excellent temporary photo exhibitions. When I visited, a typically provocative Robert Mapplethorpe show was the main attraction, along with a fantastically clever series of shots by Chinese artist Liu Bolin – the “Invisible Man” – who appears camouflaged in each of his works.
From October 10 to November 13, Joanna Rytel’s The Seal will explore power, taboos, pornography and gender, while Johan Wik’s Untitled (Nov 14-Dec 11) will depict men having a fistfight. There is an attractive café and bar on the second floor with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on to the water. Open daily 10am-9pm; entry is Kr 110 (£10) or free with a Stockholm Card. Visit fotografiska.eu
VASTERLANGGATAN
Take the quayside walk along Stadsgardsleden to Gamla Stan, the old town – it takes about ten minutes. Suspended 33 metres above ground by the busy junction that links the two islands is Gondolen (eriks.se), a bar and restaurant that offers great views. In Gamla Stan, walk up the main road, Vasterlanggatan. It’s also the main tourist drag so expect hordes of visitors and shops selling Viking hats and “I love Swedish girls” T-shirts. But you’ll also find charming eateries, design shops and, at number 76, Kurt Svensson Konsthandel (kurtsvenssonskonst.com), which sells vibrant oil paintings dating back to the 1800s. Closed after 3pm on Saturdays, a note in the window with the telephone number says: “Don’t hesitate to call if you are in the need of spending money.” Don’t expect a bargain, then…
STOCKHOLM CATHEDRAL
Walk north on Vasterlanggatan then take a right at Storkyrkobrinken. Here, next to the mighty Royal Palace, you’ll see Storkyrkan, Stockholm’s cathedral and the scene of Crown Princess Victoria’s marriage last year. The oldest parts were consecrated in 1306, and in 1736-42 the exterior was rebuilt in Italian Baroque style. But it’s the inside that is really stunning. Under its high vaulted ceiling you’ll find an ornate 17th-century ebony and silver altarpiece, two huge paintings by David Klocker von Ehrenstrahl depicting the crucifixion and the last judgment, and a wonderful 15th-century oak sculpture of St George and the Dragon, the saint protecting Stockholm from the Danish beast. Take a look, too, at the Parhelion Painting, a celestial-looking depiction of the old town dating back to the 1630s. Entry is Kr 40 (£4) or free for prayer. Visit stockholmsdomkyrkoforsamling.se
BIBLIOTEKSTAN
Cross back to the city centre via Strombron bridge and walk up by Kungstradgarden (the King’s Garden) towards Bibliotekstan. As the city’s upmarket fashion district, this pedestrianised road and the ones that branch off it are full of brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Fred Perry, Hugo Boss and Agent Provocateur. For homegrown fashion and design, try J Lindeberg, Tiger, Acne, Filippa K and Design House Stockholm. Even if the quirky aesthetic of Urban Outfitters isn’t your thing, take a look at the store here anyway – it’s housed in a 1915 former cinema and many of the building’s original features remain intact, such as a high frescoed ceiling and wooden balcony. Some stores have maps that suggest themed shopping walks around the area. Visit bibliotekstan.se
NOBIS HOTEL
End with refreshments at the Nobis hotel, at the foot of Bibliotekstan on Norrmalmstorg square. Open since December last year, this luxury property is a member of Design Hotels and its grand buildings have a story to tell. In 1973 a bank raid took place here, giving rise to the term “Stockholm syndrome” after employees held hostage grew attached to their captors. Nowadays it’s home to a smart all-day bistro with a summer terrace, a sleek mirrored bar open in the evenings, and Caina, an excellent Italian restaurant (open weekdays for lunch, Mon-Sat for dinner). The lounge, housed in a soaring 28-metre atrium, is the highlight. Open to the public after 6pm, it’s a great place to sip a cocktail. Norrmalmstorg 2-4; tel +46 8614 1000; nobishotel.com, designhotels.com. Visit businesstraveller.com/tried-and-tested for a full review.
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