India has classified Amritsar as a city in the state of Punjab, but its personality is the reflection of a township. Acres of arable land moves below me as the airplane descends into Amritsar. Buildings aren’t taller than three storeys; the only infrastructural development is two short bridges; the distance between the airport and the Golden Temple holds the key commercial and tourist hubs of Amritsar; and the drive between them is flanked by rice fields on both sides, for the most part.