Indonesia, an archipelago of some 18,108 islands, was not only a great trading hub of several centuries but the crossroads of cuisines brought over by merchants, seafarers and colonisers as well. Tasting Indonesia is also to savour the herbs and spices that led the West to blaze new sea routes to lands and cultures so different from its own.
Indonesian food has always been best when prepared at home. Outside of this, the visitor could only head for the swanky restaurants of deluxe hotels – or at the other end of the spectrum – in the humble roadside stall called “warung”. Fortunately, the dearth in between is now being filled up by a brace of restaurants that pride themselves on serving hearty local fare presented innovatively and in settings intended to showcase Indonesian heritage and design.
Here are some of the tables we tried.
TAO BAR & DAPUR BABAH ELITE
Jl Veteran I, 18-19 Jakarta Pusat tel 62 21 385 5653, www.tuguhotels.com
The cuisine of the hedonistic Peranakan (halfbreed culture resulting from unions between the Chinese settlers and native Javanese women) is lavishly showcased in this most atmospheric establishment.
Located near the landmark Monas monument on a street called Citadel during the Dutch administration, this restaurantcum-bar contains stunning pieces from the astounding private store of renaissance man Anhar Sejadibrata.
As Anhar explains, he needed a place to exhibit his collection, (make that collections), and hence, Dapur Babah, as well as sister restaurant, Lara Djonggran. (See the following entry.)
“I knew they want to be liberated (from storage), and this is the best way,” is the unique explanation of the lawyer-businessman, who also owns the boutique hotel chain Tugu, which boasts properties in Blitar, near Surabaya, and in Bali.
Dapur (“kitchen” in Bahasa Indonesia) Babah strives to recreate the home of is the tremendously wealthy Oei (Wee) family of Java, as well as the culinary productions of their bedienden (housemaids), who,Anhar and his daughter Annette, the restaurant manager, believe were the unsung heroes.“The lives of bedienden are not (sic) less important than the lives of the actual Java Babah families, themselves…”, it is written in the restaurant flyer.
The establishment boasts several interesting seating areas such as the corner presided over by the large portrait of sugar baron Oei Tiong Ham’s porcelain-skinned and highly ambitious mistress.According to Annette Anhar, regular customers feel “lucky” in this spot. The semi-open terrace at the back, inspired by the clan’s kitchen, is for those who prefer fresh air. It’s replete with glass lanterns, vintage utensils, and even a deity regarded by the Babah cooks as their traditional protector. Groups of 20 can be accommodated in the elegant “Megawati Room”, inaugurated by the former lady president.
For starters, the Loempia Semarang (spring rolls of Semarang) gets your appetite going. To share, you can have the Nasik Opor Ajam Babah Masak Ketjap (tender chicken in Babah stew with soy-marinated roe, served with chilli shrimp paste, steamed rice and shrimp crackers on the side),Nasik Pindang Tjoemi-Tjoemi Boengkoes Daoen Djati (rice platter with special Babah squid “Pindang” recipe with tofu, baby eggplant, spiced satay, chilli shrimp paste, prawn crackers and wrapped in a teak leaf) or Bebek Goring Boemboe Lengkoeas (half-fried duck marinated in a special galangal sauce). For dessert,Annette will recommend her grandmother’s Ontbijkoek Kenari (Nyonya Babah pal sugar cake) or the Wedang Ronde (Babah-style sweet ginger dessert with little rice flour balls). Forget your diet.
A three course meal for four persons is from Rp300,000 to Rp400,000 (US$53 to US$71). Open daily 1100 to 2400.
LARA DJONGGRANG
Jl Cik Di Tiro, Menteng, Jakarta Pusat tel 62 21 315 3252, email [email protected]
A sister property of Dapur Babah Elite, this gem of a restaurant sets the stage for the timeless legend of love and filial loyalty as epitomised by Lara Djonggrang, a Javanese princess whose father was slain by Bandung Bondowoso, the son of King Prabu Baka. Enraged when she spurned his advances, Bondowoso turned the maiden into stone so she could give herself to no other. Touched by her selfless act, the gods sent a mythological lion to take her to the heavens where she finally found peace.
With items (large and small) from the priceless collection of Anhar Sedjatibrata, culled from around the archipelago and his countless trips to far-flung places (such as Syria and Tibet), the interiors recreate the heyday of Prambanan. It also immortalises Lara Djonggrang’s story with two statues, depicting her refusal to marry her evil suitor and her journey to the afterlife. The menu is inspired by the frequent journeys of King Hayam Waruk, who ruled the Kingdom of Majapahit in the early 14th century. Taking up to 10 months at a time, these expeditions saw hundreds of troops and palace maids following the monarch and his consort on horses and elephants. Just because the court was away from the palace didn’t mean it sacrificed the pleasure of good meals. In fact, the coastal villages always presented the king with lavish spreads, which undoubtedly amazed the nobility. Lara Djonggrang’s piece de resistance is the Pasar Nelayan Kampong Tugu, which arrives in a huge boat-shaped container featuring grilled or steamed fresh prawns, cockles, squid, green mussels, crab and fresh catch of the day – and lobster if one wishes.
A three-course meal with rice for four persons is Rp300,000 to Rp4000 (US$53 to US$71). Open daily 1100 to 0100.
KEMBANG GOELA
Plaza Sentral, Parking Lot, Jl Jend Sudirman Kav 47-48, Jakarta 12930, tel 62 21 520 5651
When five lady friends who like to cook and eat get together, can a restaurant be far behind?
Kembang Geola (pronounced “gula”), a fine dining Indonesian restaurant, located in, of all places, a parking lot, is the result of such synergy.
Featuring starched table linens, fine silverware, sparkling glassware and waiting staff in designer duds, the restaurant is a favourite of corporates and expats during weekdays, and Indonesian families on weekends (reservations are always a must). The white minimalist interiors are given a touch of warmth, courtesy of the vintage Dutch cabinets and sideboards (all for sale) scattered around the dining room, and the handsomely carved sliding door, separating the front section from a larger area in the rear (good for private banquets), salvaged by one of the art loving ibus (Bahasa Indonesia for “woman”) from a hotel that was due for demolition.
Indonesia’s colonial past is remembered in the menu with selections such as the Sosis Sinyo Lindo (a long sausage) and Ayam Mevrouw Lientje (chicken).
Two private rooms are available, the smaller for 10 people and the larger for 16. A meal for four is from Rp480,000 (US$53). Open daily 1100 to 2300.
PAYON
JL Kemang Raya No 17, Jakarta 12730, tel 62 21 719 4826
The mother and son team of Ibu Mega and graphic designer Emir Hakim is responsible for the culinary sanctuary (a former empty lot) known as Payon in the trendy Kemang area.
Coming in from Jakarta’s infamous traffic gridlocks, visitors are welcomed by gentle lighting and sensuous gamelan music. Taken from the Sanskrit,“payon”denotes a place to take shelter and sustenance.
Apart from sharing a passion for food and their heritage, the pair also filled, what they believed, was their capital city’s lack of stylish venues to showcase traditional Indonesian cuisine.
Says Australia-trained Emir: “We, Indonesians, don’t really entertain at home, except for family and relatives. Before we opened, there was no place (with ambience) where we could take overseas guests to sample our cuisine.
“We also wanted to remind people how beautiful our food is.”
Authenticity is what Payon aims for daily, trying to keep the character of each Javanese selection offered – dishes from the eastern portion being spicy and rich,while the western portion being subtle and sweet. Besides the main restaurant, which follows the bones of a typical Javanese house with high ceilings, thatched roof and an absence of air conditioning, guests have the option to dine in the lehesan, a sit-on-the-floor venue that replicates eating at the Kraton (royal palace) in Yogyakarta, according to Emir. After meals, visitors are encouraged to browse through the shops set around a sunken landscaped pit used for small performances. Among Payon’s specials are the Ikan Layur Goring Kering (deep-fried Layur fish with hot chilli sauce), Lencak “Payon” (sautéed soya bean with traditional herbs, spices and chilli) and Iga Bakar Payon (grilled ribs in hot sweet soya sauce, chilli with lemon).
The Hakkim’s second restaurant, simply called Dapur (“kitchen”),will open soon in an old colonial house not too far from Payon. The menu will feature dishes heavily influenced by the cultures that Indonesia came in contact with through the centuries – Chinese, Dutch, Malay and the Middle East.
A meal for four persons is from Rp200,000 to Rp250,000 (US$35 to US$44). Open daily 1100 to 2300
CHICKEN TO SQUAWK ABOUT
Ayam Goreng Ny Suharti (Mrs Suharti’sstyle chicken) is Indonesia’s version of KFC, and the bouffant-haired Madam Suharti, whose portrait adorns the packaging, is its local Colonel Sanders. The recipe originated from Central Java, where the ibu (a former of respect for women in Bahasa Indonesia) hails from. The first time we were served a Madam Suharti, we thought it looked like roadkill – a flattened half-chicken marinated and deep fried to such intensity its skin had turned to pure crumbs. Yum!
Madam Suharti outlets are plentiful in Jakarta and no-frill affairs. Besides chicken, there are also traditional Central Javanese delicacies such as the package consisting of Nasi Gudeg (rice with sweet jackfruit), Gulai Ayam (a sort of chicken curry), Sambal Krecek (beef skin and tofu in spicy coconut milk), Telur Pindang (egg) and sambal (chilli paste).
Despite the proliferation of KFCs and McDonalds, Madam Suharti commands a not inconsiderable and loyal following. Don’t arrive too late at the restaurant, especially on Sunday nights, they have been known to run out of the famous chicken specialty.
Madam Suharti has also received a challenge from an unexpected quarter –her ex-husband, who set up his own chain after the split, using exactly the same recipe diners swear. In place of his former spouse’s face on the box, it’s a chicken. Go figure.
PRICE: Rp50,000 (US$5.60) for a whole chicken with rice and around Rp32,000 (US$3.58) for a Nasi Gudeg package.
Jalan Radio Dalam, 44 Jakarta Selatan
