Wuhan: River city revival

New infrastructure and rail connections are boosting business in Wuhan, says Reggie Ho One of the most undervalued cities in China, Wuhan was once three separate jurisdictions located around the confluence of the Han and Yangtze rivers. Its history dates back some 3,500 years, longer even than the famous ancient capital of Xian. The city of Hanyang, now the southwestern district of Wuhan, was already booming during the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD), and by the Song Dynasty (960AD-1279AD) it had become one of the few Chinese seaports open to foreign trade. Unfortunately, almost all of the historic buildings from imperial times have been destroyed by war, and those you do see – such as the Yellow Crane Tower – are reconstructions. Wuhan has its own, smaller version of Shanghai’s riverfront Bund – Yanjiang Avenue – which was once lined with foreign banks and embassies. Many of these buildings have been preserved; some taken over by government agencies, others occupied by private businesses. Although it has lost its status as a leading economic hub, Wuhan is set to make a comeback thanks to recent developments in transport infrastructure. Located in Huangpi District, Wuhan Tianhe International airport lies some 26km north of downtown, and about 45 minutes from the centre of Hankou, Wuhan’s most established urban district. It has two terminals – the smaller International one opened in 2010 and is a simple facility, while the bigger Terminal 2, which opened in April 2008 at a cost of almost RMB3.4 billion (£355 million) and three years’ construction work, offers close to 15,000 sqm of space over three storeys. Its annual capacity is 13 million passengers and 122,000 flights. Terminal 3 is already planned, and when completed (before 2015) will be able to accommodate the A380. Air France is the only carrier flying nonstop from Europe. It operates three times a week from Paris CDG, with connecting flights available from the UK and mainland Europe. The best alternatives include Cathay Pacific and Dragonair via Hong Kong, Air China via Beijing, and China Southern via Guangzhou. Wuhan is not served by any Gulf airline. The city is now well connected with high-speed rail – a ride to Shenzhen takes four to five hours, with fares starting from RMB540 (£56). Wuhan railway station, however, is located to the east of Wuchang – one of the city’s three main districts – and quite far from the centre (about an hour). Located on the east side of the Yangtze river, in the year 221AD Wuchang was made the capital of Eastern Wu, one of the major states that formed the Three Kingdoms period of China. It was here that in 1911, a revolt broke out that led to the end of the Qing Dynasty. One of the district’s most notable features is the 33 sq km East lake, China’s largest urban lake, surrounded by parks and attractions. It has been linked to the much smaller Sha Lake by an artificial canal that is lined on both sides by a newly developed retail and entertainment district called Han Jie. On the Yangtze’s west bank, south of Hankou, is Hanyang, which has a history dating back 1,800 years to the Tang Dynasty (618AD-907AD), when it was an important trading port. More recently, it was the home of the Hanyang Arsenal, which produced and stored weapons for revolutionaries during the uprising against the Qing Dynasty, then for the Republic of China before the city was taken by the Japanese during the First World War. The Wuhan International Exhibition Centre and the Economic and Technological Development Zone are also located in Hanyang. Many French companies have operations here and, as a result, there is a sizeable expat community. Line Two of the Wuhan Metro opened last year to connect Hankou with Wuchang and, by 2017, the network is set to reach the airport. Upcoming hotels in the city include the Puyu – a sister property to the Puli in Shanghai, set to open in August – a Sheraton, due next May, and two Hilton Hotels and Resorts properties, expected to open late next year and in 2015 respectively. Regal Hotels is also scheduled to add a property in 2015.

TIME-OUT TIPS

One of the best places to visit is the 118-metre-high Moshan Hill, located on the southern shore of East Lake. This green park has lots of trails to explore, and is peppered with pagodas and Chinese structures. The entry fee is RMB60 (£6), plus RMB20 (£2) to visit the old-style Chutian Tower, where there are exhibitions and dance performances. A RMB120 (£12.50) package also includes a chairlift to ascend the mountain and a slide down to the river’s level. Yellow Crane Tower on Sheshan (Snake Hill), near the Yangtze in Wuchang, is a city landmark. Built in 1981, it’s a reconstruction of a tower destroyed during the Qing Dynasty. The site includes a park, pavilions, a rare stone museum and the Millennium Bell. The tower has a calligraphy room where visitors can try their hand at the ancient writing technique. Wuhan is not particularly known for shopping, but Baocheng Road near the Dorsett Regency hotel has a vibrant night market. For an upmarket experience, Wuhan Tiandi, a sister project to Xintiandi in Shanghai, features international brands as well as local ones, such as Woo (shanghaiwoo.com). It may once have been just one passage, but Hubu Alley now refers to a whole area of lanes selling Chinese street snacks, such as wontons, beef noodles, and mianwo (a savoury deep-fried doughnut). If you feel adventurous, try a grilled frog on a skewer. Hubu Alley is on the Wuchang side, near the riverbank and Wuhan First Yangtze Bridge. Along the riverfront in Hankou, between the Second Wuhan Yangtze River Bridge and Wuhan Yangtze Tunnel, is the upscale Kanglong Taizi restaurant (226 Yanjiang Ave Jiang’an; tel +86 27 8271 2228). Dishes include deep-fried lotus root with goose liver, Wuchang fish braised in a spicy sauce, and pig’s trotter in a sweet-savoury Yangzhou sauce (all RMB38/£3.95). A number of bars are frequented by the city’s expats, one of the most popular being Brussels Beer Garden (brusselsbg.com), near the Shangri-La. Its arched ceiling is decorated with football team banners and jerseys, and a big TV shows important games, while a patio at the back looks out to Xihu (West Lake). An extensive range of Belgian beers is offered, as well as choices from other countries and a range of cocktails. A pint of Vedett costs RMB45 (£4.70). Yanjiang Avenue, the Bund of Wuhan, is lined with nightlife options. Next door to the Marco Polo hotel is Soho China (158), part of a nationwide nightclub chain and located in a classical 1920s building. The crowd is mostly young Chinese, and a gin and tonic costs RMB40 (£4). One and Night bar in Wuhan Tiandi is a happening place, filled with well-dressed, trendy locals and usually buzzing even when most other places are quiet. Cocktails cost about RMB55 (£5.70).  

WHERE TO STAY

Dorsett Regency Wuhan

For first-timers, this modern hotel can be hard to find as it is “hidden” in a mixed-use building in a busy part of town, but the riverfront, shopping malls, night markets, and Jiang Han Lu station are all in walking distance. The 319 units include apartments, suites, business, deluxe and superior rooms, and there is a gym and banqueting space. dorsettregency.com

Marco Polo Wuhan

The service at this classy 365-roomer is reliable, while its riverfront location is great, surrounded by heritage buildings from Wuhan’s heyday. Adhering to the Hong Kong group’s brand standards, there are Club floors, Café Marco for international food, a Cantonese restaurant, gym and pool, as well as nine function spaces and two ballrooms. marcopolohotels.com

New World Wuhan Hotel

This Hankou property has 327 understated, stylish rooms and all the trimmings of an international-standard business hotel, including a 440 sqm pillarless grand ballroom. The Chinese restaurant is an ideal place to sample Cantonese, Sichuan and Wuhan cuisine without having to battle the language barrier outside. wuhan.newworldhotels.com

Shangri-La Hotel Wuhan

Located near the Wuhan Library in Hankou, the 442-room Shangri-La opened in 1999 and is one of the city’s most established international hotels. A recent renovation project has made it look as good as new, and the décor is unmistakably Shangri-La. Its ballroom holds 1,800 guests, while the yakitori restaurant Tori-ji is known for its teppanyaki. shangri-la.com

Westin Wuhan Wuchang

This property is situated along the Wuchang riverfront and some of the 305 rooms offer a view of the sparkly cityscape across the water. It features a glittery lobby, an executive lounge with a 180-degree view of the Yangtze and Hankou, a 1,488 sqm grand ballroom and a sizeable landscaped garden outside the hotel’s café, Seasonal Tastes. starwoodhotels.com