The home of the Terracotta Army has modern aspirations to match its historic splendour, says Reggie Ho.

The capital of Shaanxi province in north-central China, Xian is perhaps best known for the Terracotta Army. Discovered here in 1974, the thousand-strong horde of sculptures dates back to the third century BC and was created for the first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang. The city was the ancient seat of government for 13 Chinese dynasties, including the Han and Tang, both of which ruled for much longer than the Qin and are regarded by historians as having defined modern Chinese culture.

Xian has many well-preserved historic sites, including the most complete ancient city wall in China, but it has also made remarkable progress in terms of modernisation and economic development. Last year, it beat Chongqing and Beijing to win a US$7 billion Samsung project, the South Korean conglomerate’s largest single overseas investment. Xian Aircraft Industrial Corporation serves the country’s military as well as producing aircraft components for Boeing and Airbus, while the city is also a leading producer of textiles, chemical products, pharmaceuticals and building materials.

Xian Xianyang International airport, 47km from the city centre, opened its new Terminal 3 in May last year, upping its total area to 45,000 sqm and capacity to 123 slots. China Eastern, Shanghai Airlines, China United Airlines and China Southern were among the first to use this new facility. Other than Korean Air and Asiana, the 20 or so carriers serving the airport are all from Greater China, including Hong Kong and Taiwan.

At about 12 sq km, the walled city is only a small part of what makes up urban Xian today. The sub-provincial city boasts nine districts and four counties, with a population of 8.5 million, and an urban area of 826 sq km.

Although much of Xian has been modernised, there are still a number of old neighbourhoods with houses built during the Ming Dynasty, many of which have been converted into hostels, shops and cafés. Traffic can be a little chaotic, especially inside the wall.

The first metro line, running from north to south, opened in 2011. If all goes to plan, there will be three lines by 2016, with more planned. For now, the system’s reach is limited and taxis are still the best bet for getting around.

Time-out tips

  • Beiyuanmen, north of the Drum Tower, is commonly known as the Muslim quarter and is home to street stalls and small restaurants serving specialities such as gosh nun (a round pie with a mostly mutton filling). If you want to enjoy the local cuisine without having to battle the language barrier, Shang Palace at Shangri-La’s Golden Flower hotel is worth a special visit. One of the must-try dishes is Shaanxi liang pi noodles with chilli sesame sauce.
  • The Terracotta Army (bmy.com.cn) is about 30-45 minutes’ drive from the city. It’s easiest to book a tour via your hotel. Open 8.30am-5pm; entry is ¥120-¥150 (£12-£16) depending on the season.
  • Qujiang New District (qujiang.com.cn) used to be a large garden complex in the Tang Chang’an City, encompassing imperial garden Furong Park and a lagoon. For three centuries of the Tang Dynasty, it was where the literati gathered to discuss ideas. One of the centrepieces is the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which is open to the public. Tang Paradise is a theme park featuring computerised fire and water shows, dining and retail options.
  • For an insight into one of China’s most powerful dynasties, visit the Tang Dynasty Show (tangyuegong.com). The performance can be enjoyed with a pre-show dinner. Dialogue is in Chinese, but the visual feast alone makes it worthwhile. Prices are ¥220 (£23) per person (¥500/£53 with dinner).
  • Beside the wall’s South Gate (Nan Men), on Shun Cheng Nan Lu, is a row of contemporary bars – the Belgian Bar (belgian-bar-xian.com) is popular with expats.

Where to stay

Hilton

This city-centre 309-room property combines modern design with traditional touches such as Tang Dynasty motifs. All the facilities expected of a five-star hotel are provided, including Chinese and international dining options, a gym, pool, spa and an executive lounge.

Dongxin Road; hilton.com

 

Shangri-La

The Goa Xin Hi-tech Development Zone, 7km south-west of the walled city (a 25-minute drive away), is where you’ll find the city’s Shangri-La. Its 395 rooms offer views of the city or landscaped gardens. From the imperial-style entrance, one enters a world that is recognisably Shangri-La, with plenty of wood and marble columns, a Horizon Club, and international, Chinese and Thai restaurants.

Keji Road; shangri-la.com

 

Sofitel

Located on Renmin Square in the heart of the walled city, the Sofitel is part of a complex that was once reserved for government officials and dignitaries. It includes Mercure and Grand Mercure properties, and the People’s hotel, built in 1957 in a mix of Chinese and European architectural styles and due to be fully renovated as a super-luxury option. All of the properties share a garden. The Sofitel has 414 rooms, suites and apartments, three bars, and Mediterranean, Moroccan, Brazilian and Japanese restaurants.

Dongxin Road; sofitel.com

Westin

Situated in Qujiang New District to the south of the city walls, the 329-room Westin has four floors above ground, with a design that maximises natural light. The basement levels house the restaurants – there are Cantonese, Japanese and international options – and the owner’s art collection.

Ci En Road; starwoodhotels.com