While Queensland’s Gold Coast is experiencing a development boom, you only need take a couple of steps off the beaten track to reach a more primitive Australia. And while it’s beautifully elemental, there’s everything from jet boats to seaplanes to add an extra dimension of amusement.
The Sir Henry Morgan has had a chequered history. The 25.84-metre, three-masted schooner was built in New Zealand, sold by her bankrupted owner to a drugs dealer of some renown, reincarnated as a floating brothel in Sydney, and nowadays – rather more in keeping with her elegant lines and trim design – sails out from The Spit just north of Surfers Paradise to South Stradbroke Island, which lies just below Brisbane.
The views from on deck, and hanging over the water on the bowsprit, stretch over magnificent new residential developments like Sovereign Island, and up to the hills beyond, which seem to dwarf the pockets of civilisation along the coast.John Masefield’s lines – “I must go down to the sea again/to the lonely sea and the sky/and all I ask is a tall ship/and a star to steer her by” – could hardly be more resonant.
Ferries, jet skis, cabin cruisers and dinghies heeled over at 45 degrees criss-cross the tall ship’s wake, and as additional entertainment the Morgan’s speed boat is on hand for parasailing. Harnessed to a parachute, parasailers are reeled out toward the heavens for what can only be described as a bird’s-eye view as the boat hurtles through the water; the crew expertly guide the parachute back on board for a dry landing, though “tea-bagging” – a mischievous dunking – is not unknown.
Stradbroke – universally referred to as Straddie – used to be a single island until a ship carrying a cargo of dynamite ran aground in 1896. The subsequent explosion created a new cove, and the relentless waters of the Pacific Ocean subsequently split Straddie into north and south. Sir Henry anchors at McLarens Landing, where lunch is served and there’s a host of diversions on offer, including banana boats, jet skis and seaplane flight-seeing trips.
But to get a real taste of this marvellously undeveloped islet, the best move is to board a Toyota Land Cruiser for a four-wheel drive tour to the Pacific coast. The island’s thick with wildlife, from kookaburras and 1.8-metre monitor lizards to the highly poisonous brown snake, while a couple of tame wallabies lollop around McLarens, politely begging for lettuce from the lunch buffet though disdaining too much mayonnaise.
It takes perhaps 10 minutes to motor through the wooded interior to reach the beach which runs the length of South Straddie – firm and crisp enough to be taken at speed, and nigh deserted apart from the occasional beach fisherman, kitesurfer and lone individual in search of the solace provided by long hikes on the edge of nowhere. Back at McLarens, lunch is a gourmet affair, with steaks, fish and chicken piled high on the barbecue,and the chef’s brigade working at top speed to satisfy appetites sharpened by the sea air.
Perhaps, the greatest charm of the great Straddie escape is the ease and demeanour of the staff. Safety briefings on board are delivered with splendidly laconic, iconic Ocker humour.
(“There are 85 lifejackets on board, and – sorry ladies – they’re all orange.”), and while the diners are seated at the large square al fresco tables, a couple of the deckhands pick up guitars to provide impromptu entertainment.Ben, the seaplane pilot - flowing blonde locks,bright blue eyes,epaulettes and bare feet – helps clear the tables, and the owner, Margaret Nicholls, wanders back and forth chatting as if she were holding a lunch party for a large bunch of friends she happens not to have seen for a long time.
A day’s voyage aboard Sir Henry is by no means all over-the-top luxury. Comfort, fun and exploring the natural beauty are the watchwords. There’s no pressure to join in the optional extra activities, and you can just as easily find a quiet corner on deck, or on the beach, and revel in the great Queensland outdoors.
Come late afternoon, docking back at The Spit – with theme parks and high-rise condos scattered left and right – excites a vague longing that more of the Gold Coast isn’t like Straddie, and a huge sense of appreciation that the island is almost as untouched as when Captain James Cook sailed past centuries ago.
BASICS
A day aboard the Sir Henry Morgan costs US$65.75, which includes lunch. For more information browse www.tallship.com.au
