Features

Plunge Perfect In Palawan

31 Aug 2007 by business traveller

In the middle of the Sulu Sea, Wolfgang Krueger mingles with a vast variety of marine life and finds camaraderie in close quarters after shared stories and cold bottles of beer.

As our Airbus A320-200 prepared to land at the Puerto Princesa Airport in Palawan, I peered out of the window and saw a runway which seemed more like a dead-end street than a full-fledged landing facility. But we made it, and were even greeted by a brass band once we emerged into the sunshine – just a typical welcome in the Philippines’ “Last Frontier”.

Palawan, southwest of Manila, boasts a wealth of unique attractions, from pristine beaches to breathtaking treks, romantic resorts to two of the five UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Philippines, one of them my prime reason for being here.

The Tubbataha Reef Natural Park is the most biologically diverse coral reef system in this archipelago, comprising a near-pristine coral reef with perpendicular walls, an almost undisturbed reef crest and reef edge, two coral islands, and extensive lagoons with sea grass and coral beds. The name Tubbataha is said to have been derived from the local Samal language, “tubba” (meaning long) and “taha” (related to shore, reefs or lagoon).

This 33,000-hectare sanctuary is home to marine turtles, including hawksbill and green sea turtles, which nest along the beaches. It’s located some 92 nautical miles southeast of Puerto Princesa City and, as you may have guessed by now, only accessible by boat. A solitary ranger station on the southern tip of the north atoll is the only sign of human habitation in the vastness of the Sulu Sea. Due to prevailing rough currents, boats can only sail in the area from mid March to early June, and yes, these are usually booked by divers. Given the short season and limited number of park entry permits, I reckon there are only about 1,000 divers who manage to explore these atolls every year.

The dive boats (also known as live aboards) are no luxury cruise liners, and one must be prepared to tolerate somewhat cramped surroundings, albeit with air conditioning and warm water. I chose the Oceanic Explorer, operated by the Expedition Fleet, and while it was not the most luxurious nor the largest of the wide range of vessels available, it did the job and the staff provided the famous Filipino hospitality. On this trip, we were 14 divers, including one of the country’s most popular actresses – who turned out to be a wonderfully down-to-earth person – and a crew of 20.

As with many dive spots in the Philippines, Tubbataha proved beyond words, and is perhaps the icing on the cake. Largely unaffected by commercial fishing (although some portions of the coral have been ravaged by El Niño and show obvious bleaching), the waters are clear with very good visibility and abundant marine life. One can expect to see schools of barracudas, jacks, sharks, turtles, manta rays, eagle rays and, if it happens to be your day, whale sharks, among countless other kinds of species.

Depending on the dive site and the weather conditions, currents range from strong to almost non-existent and this has had an impact on the marine life. I recall a particular spot in the northwest corner of the south reef, known to regulars as “KO-OK”, where conditions were perfect: firm currents, slightly cooler waters and enormous shark activity, especially in the greater depths of about 40m, which seemed to be the preserve of numerous scalloped hammerhead sharks.

But even at 24m, shark activity is definitely comparable with the famous “blue corner” in Palau, minus the vast number of divers usually seen hooked on to the reef plateau eagerly viewing the passing spectacle.

A dive vacation is like no other. The story sharing sessions at the day’s end over wine or a cold beer create an inescapable social atmosphere. On my last trip, we were six nationalities onboard who got on beautifully. Perhaps, the world’s warring factions should try going on regular dives to remind themselves about Nature’s wonders and the healing magic of friendship.


FACT FILE

  • Getting there: Philippine Airlines flies daily to Puerto Princesa, Palawan. The journey takes about 90 minutes. From the airport, take a van or jeepney (local transport) – another 15 minutes – to the city’s harbour area where the dive boats are docked.

  • Rates: A six-day/five-night trip with Expedition Fleet, featuring shared accommodation and all dives and meals, costs US$1,340 per person.

  • Helpful websites: www.tubbatahareef.org, www.expeditionfleet.com

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