The Michelin-starred chef took time out from supervising Pierre at the Mandarin Oriental Hongkong to share with Margie T Logarta what he cooks for his young family.
You have restaurants in Paris (Ed’s note: Pierre Gagnaire, Sketch in London and Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo), what is Pierre in Hongkong’s concept?
It is simply to give pleasure to people’s dining experiences. The produce found in Hongkong is different from Paris or London. And people here want different things, do things differently. The mentality is different.
I was very surprised to find everybody drinking warm water during lunch. In France, we would never do that.
What else have you discovered about people’s preferences in this city?
It’s still too early to say. We just opened in October last year but I’ve noticed local diners are more openly appreciative if they like the meal, unlike in Tokyo. But even then things are changing and people are beginning to communicate more what they feel about the food and service.
Hongkong people are more “Latin American” . It’s easier to get feedback here.
Describe the philosophy underlining your dishes?
It’s not just about the food tasting delicious, but customers should always feel that you respect them and you are trying to give the best. They must feel your sincerity.
We’ve learned you are very hands on in running your various restaurants. You even choose the colour of the flower arrangement on the tables.
I try to be in touch with all my restaurants, perhaps not every day but very, very often. And I visit them regularly. (Ed’s note: since opening Pierre in October 2006, Chef Gagnaire was back a second time in January.)
My (management) staff have worked with me for some time now. They come from Paris and Tokyo.
Our company culture is one where I try to encourage everyone to be themselves at work, to keep their personalities. When we first opened Pierre last year, the kitchen was like a garage.
Now it looks like a kitchen, and the employees are more confident.
You’ve been awarded three Michelin stars for Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. Your influence on the fusion movement is enormous. How long would it take for someone to reach your position?
Many, many years.
So you don’t believe in the cult of celebrity chefs then?
Things are happening so quickly these days. At 30, one still hasn’t evolved. I’m 56 now, and I’m still learning…developing.
There was a time when it was embarrassing to be a chef. When I was 15 or 16, I hesitated to tell the girls. Now, it’s gone totally in the other direction. It’s too much!
Describe your creative process to us. Do you get inspired by visiting other restaurants or trying new cuisines?
I’d love to eat out more but I don’t do that. I create better when I’m alone or with the staff working things out in the kitchen. It’s very important for me to have that silence.
You mean you haven’t had the chance to taste Hongkong’s great food?
Oh, I’ve had noodles and dim sum here.
Did you ever want to try improving airline cuisine?
That’s a very complicated job. Usually, the appetisers and desserts are okay but never the main dish. Food on the ground tastes different in the air, so they have to put in more salt or spices. I don’t usually eat on board. Anyway, I’m too tired from all that queuing up at check in and by the time I get on the plane, I would prefer to sleep or read a book.
What’s it like cooking for celebrities?
I enjoy it when I respect them. Cooking for people like the late (Francois) Miterrand and President Chirac is not a problem.
You and your wife have three young children. Are you expected also to do the cooking at home? What does Papa usually prepare?
Yeah, yeah. I love doing it. It’s no different from cooking in a restaurant. You start early and the family sits down to eat at a certain time each day. It’s interesting cooking for youngsters. You try to introduce something new but not too experimental. I also prepare hamburgers.
Hamburger a la Pierre Gagnaire. That’s novel!
Oh, we serve hamburgers at Pierre Gagnaire in Paris. I think you should know that Asian food in Europe is big with the kids. They love sushi and dim sum.
