Penang Island brings to mind Georgetown’s rows of old shophouses dating back from the 17th and 19th centuries, and the local food that has become internationally renowned. These two experiences were definitely on my agenda during a recent visit to the Malaysian state, located in the country’s northwest about four hours’ drive from Kuala Lumpur.
Five years after Georgetown was declared a Unesco World Heritage site, this island capital buzzes with renewed energy. I spend the morning walking the iconic streets with my guide Joann, whose deep knowledge makes the tour a more rounded experience. We visit Dr Sun Yat-Sen’s Penang base, one of the town’s famous clanhouses, as well as many unmissable sights – both old and new – around the area, from the houses of worship of different faiths along Harmony Streets to a couple of graffiti street artworks – mementoes from the annual Georgetown Festival. Joann talks about the unique architecture of the traditional shophouses, explaining how the practice of feng shui and the belief in the five Chinese elements influenced the buildings’ design.
Penang street food
It seems like every other person I meet during my four days on the island asks whether I have tried its famous street food. Experiencing Penang’s hawker stalls was actually my first stop, half an hour after arriving at the airport. Being full from lunch that day, I opt for a simple congee dish, but I make up for it during dinner the next day when my companion Pauline from Penang Global Tourism takes me to another set of hawker stalls where we chow down on kway teow chow, Hokkien mee and ice kachang for dessert. Sadly for me, one of the downsides of not having a palate for spicy food is missing out on the famous laksa (spicy noodle soup). At another lunch, we go to fine-dining restaurant Perut Rumah for a taste of aromatic Nyonya cuisine.
For a peek into Penang’s contemporary lifestyle, we visit the upscale Gurney Plaza shopping mall with its branded shops as well as Straits Quay Mall (www.straitsquay.com), a seafront retail and F&B complex that boasts its own marina right on the premises.
It’s time to commune with nature, so we visit the eight-acre (3.2-hectare) Tropical Spice Garden (www.tropicalspicegarden.com) at Jalan Teluk Bahang. The garden has a living collection of over 500 species of local and “introduced” flora from Malaysia and around the world. In particular, there is an abundance of tropical herbs and spices. The garden is also home to wild animals, birds and insects. On the grounds is Lone Crag Villa, a unique pre-war Straits Colonial holiday bungalow with a rustic and natural ambience. It has now been converted to house different facilities such as a gift shop, a cooking school and a pavilion, which can be hired out for events.
Penang butterfly farm
For the most expansive view of Penang, there is no better place than Penang Hill (www.penanghill.gov.my) at Jalan Stesen Bukit Bendera. It is the oldest hill station in Malaysia and boasts the first funicular train in Southeast Asia. Dating back to 1788, this hilltop attraction is another historic neighbourhood, and has an estimated population of only 900. About 69 per cent of the 1,157-acre (468-hectare) hill area has retained its original forest vegetation.
To get there we board the modern air tram, which ascends more than 610 metres up the hill, whose summit reaches 823 metres above sea level. With stupendous panoramas from the viewing platform, beautiful nature walks, an aviary and breezy cafés, it’s a perfect place to relax and take in Penang’s pleasures.
