Emerging from a turbulent history, the capital of Sri Lanka is determined to return to its glory days, reports Jennifer Henricus
It’s two years since a three-decade-long conflict ended in Sri Lanka: in the new peace it’s easy to forget that just 24 months ago the country’s largest city and commercial capital, Colombo, was listed as one of the most unsafe in the world – loud booms and wailing ambulance sirens regularly announced more carnage. Today, Colombo is booming and blooming in a different way as it races towards a new status as one of the world’s safest and greenest cities.
Many residents, who had watched in hopelessness as war took its toll, are somewhat bemused by the buzz and almost military zeal with which the authorities are giving their home a new image. Beautiful tree-lined roads leading to key government and military residences that were closed for decades are now open to traffic and pedestrians. There is still a military presence in the city, but checkpoints are noticeably fewer. Boundary walls that increased in height around public spaces and buildings with each successive wave of violence are coming down, revealing surprising aspects of beauty and heritage.
“This is the best time to be in Colombo,” says Neroy Marso, general manager of top city hotel Cinnamon Lakeside. “There is a new buzz and a great feeling of hope which was missing for so long.”
A history lesson
In centuries past, this west coast Indian Ocean port city was a key spot on international sea routes: it was a favourite among Chinese and Arab traders on the old marine silk route – some put down roots here and Arab descendants still make up about 24 percent of its 650,000 resident population that also comprises a mix of indigenous Sinhalese and Tamils.
From the 16th century to the middle of the 20th century, Colombo was an important cog in European empires – the Portuguese came for cinnamon, the Dutch banished them a century later for more spices, only to be ousted by the British who made it the capital city and established a thriving plantation economy. Ceylon’s citizenry took control of its destiny in 1948 but unfortunate waves of conflict followed: in its desire to establish a new identity, Colombo turned a blind eye to the rich heritage left by Arab traders and European colonists, not only in the architecture but also in its language, culture and cuisine.
“It is so unfortunate that Colombo’s potential as a great city of Asia has been bypassed – few are even aware of the city’s amazing heritage,” says designer and entrepreneur Lalin Jinesena, operator of boutique property Casa Colombo.
Many first-time visitors are surprised by Colombo’s time-warp European feel – a walk in the Fort, established by the Portuguese and successively fortified by the Dutch and British, gives an indication of the thriving economy in the past, says Miguel Cunat, managing director of specialist travel company Sri Lanka Instyle.
In recent decades, urban designers and architects dreamed up schemes to bring life back into the Fort and the dead areas around a potentially spectacular water body, the Beira Lake, as well as properties looking out to sea over Galle Face Green, the old esplanade south of the Fort. Now, at least parts of the dream are coming true.
The Defence Headquarters that occupies a prime seafront location is being moved out of Colombo: Hong Kong’s Shangri-La Group has purchased part to build the city’s first seven-star hotel, while the China National Aviation Corp will build a mixed development including a hotel, apartments and shopping mall next door. This is just one of several Chinese projects – others include a new international airport and port in the south of the country, several road and rail projects and a state-of-the-art Performing Arts Centre right in the heart of the city that will open later this month.
Meanwhile, several top Asian hotel chains have put in bids to develop the heritage properties in the Fort, while the 17th century Dutch hospital has been spruced up and is expected to come alive with restaurants and bars.
Beira Lake, too, is coming alive – the Colombo Rowing Club has increased its regattas while its neighbour, Cinnamon Lakeside, is opening a waterside leisure area and will operate a pontoon with dining on the water and boat rides to casinos on the opposite shore.
However, one area that has continually maintained an amazing energetic vibe is Pettah, which is just outside the Fort and is probably one of Asia’s oldest and most lively bazaars, a celebratory reminder of the old diversity that drove Colombo’s economy.
On the up
In the new economy, tourism is the main driver – the government hopes to attract 2.5 million visitors to the country by 2016 – but other industries attracting business travellers are gemstones, tea, garments and information technology.
English is the language of business, there is an advanced business law in place but the bureaucracy is quite cumbersome and requires a fair dose of patience to navigate. However, many still say it’s relatively easy compared to other cities on the subcontinent.
“With the end of the war, Sri Lanka’s gemstone business has taken off and most international buyers who used to bypass Colombo and head for Bangkok are now back here,” says Andre Tissera, chief executive of Sapphirus Lanka, which has offices in Thailand and Sri Lanka. Sri Lankan – also called Ceylon – sapphires fetch premium prices in world markets and buyers from the US, Europe and Japan make regular visits to buy from the source.
The garment business here also continues to attract buyers from top European and US fashion labels, particular those looking for complex products, says chief executive and creative director of Orient Design, Gihan Nanayakkara.
Ventures catering to IT outsourcing are expected to see the most growth – an estimated 60,000 are employed in the sector – and earnings are expected to reach US$1 billion by 2015. Meanwhile, traditional plantation crops like tea and rubber are doing well, boosted by better prices in international markets. Turnover at the Ceylon Chamber of Commerce’s weekly auctions has reached record levels recently.
Most offices are in the districts of Colombo 1, 2, 3 and 5. But as land prices and rents continue to soar, some businesses have moved their offices to less expensive suburbs. The top office property, the twin towers of the World Trade Centre in the Fort, which houses the Colombo Stock Exchange and the Board of Investment, has had an increase in the number of corporate tenants, says Ralph De Lanerolle, director of the developer, Overseas Realty, which is owned by the Shing Kwan Group in Singapore. “To meet rising demand we are now adding another 350,000 square feet of office space to the second phase of the mixed development at Havelock City in Colombo 5,” he says.
But most agree that there is still a lot more to be done. Neroy Marso would like to see more entertainment areas, more restaurants and nightclubs that cater to visitors. Tourism specialist Libby Owen Edmunds of Adlib Consulting agrees that despite the buzz and increased activity, Colombo is yet to see new restaurants and bars pop up to cater for this influx. “We need restaurants with world-class food and more upmarket hotels for the affluent business traveller,” she says.
For Miguel Cunat, it’s important to “abide by laws that protect Colombo’s heritage, otherwise the city will lose its soul.” And many residents will echo Lalin Jinesena’s dream for Colombo: “I want to see it moving to the top of the list of cosmopolitan cities such as Singapore – in the 1960s Singapore drew inspiration from Colombo. I want Colombo to return to its status as a shining jewel.”
Kandy and the elephants
Nestling in green hills 1,500 feet (457 metres) above sea level and just 115 kilometres from Colombo, is Kandy, the last capital of the old Sri Lankan kings and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Although haphazard development has robbed this once beautiful city of some of its charm, its core remains surprisingly calm and appealing. Built around an artificial lake, its centrepiece is the famous Temple of the Tooth, Buddhism’s most sacred shrine. Adjacent to it are palace buildings from the old kingdom, now functioning as museums, and across the road on the edge of the lake is the queen’s bath. The tree-covered hills above the temple and palace are maintained as a state forest reserve and are home to diverse bird and animal life.
In August, the city takes on a carnival atmosphere when the annual Kandy perahera is held: the casket of the sacred Buddhist relic is taken in procession on the back of a decorated temple tusker for several consecutive nights to bless the city and the country. More than 50 trained elephants draped in equally elaborate décor and lights are joined by hundreds of dancers and drummers in what is one of the world’s most spectacular religious pageants. The best place to watch it is from a balcony of a room at the Queen’s Hotel.
The drive to Kandy can be quite long (3-4 hours) because of endless traffic, but the route is scenic, passing through verdant paddy fields, densely wooded areas and up through some spectacular scenery as the road climbs into the hills.
A good stop en route is the Pinnawela elephant orphanage where about 100 elephants rescued from perilous situations in the wild (Sri Lanka has more than 2,000 wild elephants in wildlife reserves throughout the country) are cared for by wildlife department staff. For a memorable experience, join them at baby feeding time and later follow the procession as adults guide babies down to the river for their daily soak and squirt.
Kandy has several good hotels – Mahaveli Reach, Earls Regency and Amaya Hills are among them. But if you want a more quiet, secluded stay, Kandy House is a good bet and for a totally wacky experience, Helga’s Folly is a must.
If you have only a day to spare and don’t mind the grime of a Sri Lankan railway carriage, book a ride on the intercity express – it’s a bit like a roller coaster in a theme park, but the views are breathtaking and you get to Kandy in 2.5 hours – leaving you plenty of time to visit the heritage sites, do a stroll around the lake, grab a quick bite in town and catch the afternoon train back in time to spend cocktail hour at the Galle Face Hotel.
Where to stay
Colombo has good accommodation for business travellers including several five-star hotels, some unique boutique properties as well as a range of serviced apartments that are gaining in popularity.
According to Shehan Asmone of letting agency Colombo Properties, demand from business travellers for serviced apartments for short lets is increasing, but there aren’t many on the market. Preferred properties are Monarch (www.monarchresidencies.com), Crescat, Iceland (www.icelandresidencies.com), Empire and Capitol with rents starting at US$70 per night for a minimum stay of three nights. Recommended hotels include:
Cinnamon Grand
This 501-room, five-star hotel in the business heart of the city has a Premier wing for corporate visitors. The entire property was upgraded over the past five years and now has excellent business facilities. Its 13 restaurants are among the most popular in the city, with the Lagoon seafood restaurant topping the bill, while its Coffee Stop is best for a quick coffee and sandwich on the go. Net rates start at US$191 and prices increase depending on demand.
77 Galle Road, Colombo 3,
tel +94 11 2 437 437,
www.cinnamonhotels.com
Cinnamon Lakeside
A 340-room, five-star hotel sitting on the edge of Beira Lake that was completely upgraded over the past four years to enhance its contemporary resort feel. It has good office facilities, several fine restaurants, including the popular 7 degrees North waterfront bar, an inviting swimming pool overlooking the lake, tennis and squash courts, and a well-equipped gym. Net rates start at US$170 (including breakfast) and wifi at US$15 per day.
115 Sir Chittampalam A Gardiner Mawatha, Colombo 2, tel +94 11 2 491 000, www.cinnamonhotels.com
Hilton Colombo Residence
Many business visitors rate this as the best place to stay in the city. The 33-storey complex has 12 corporate suites – four two-bedroom and eight three-bedroom suites – on the 28th and 29th floors, all commanding panoramic views of the city. Net rates start at US$317 a night plus US$20 per day for wifi.
200 Union Place, Colombo 2,
tel + 94 11 5 344 644,
www.hilton.co.uk/colomboresidence
Tintagel
Entrepreneur Shanth Fernando converted this former home of two prime ministers and a president into a unique boutique hotel with 10 individually designed suites and smart dining, including an alfresco restaurant and a formal dining room. The hotel offers complimentary wifi, a portable modem on request, computer and internet station in The Library as well as print, fax and photocopy facilities. Net rates including breakfast range from US$249 to US$373.
65 Rosmead Place, Colombo 7,
tel +94 11 4 602 122,
www.tintagelcolombo.com
Casa Colombo
A 200-year-old Moghul home set in an old garden with giant trees has been converted into this boutique property just off the busy heart of Colombo 4. It has 12 suites each decorated in an individual style, eight dedicated to corporate visitors, each with a laptop, fax, photocopier and free wifi. Its speciality is quiet privacy and individual service: each room has a butler or casa domo who takes care of the guest from the time of arrival to departure. Rates start from US$200 a night.
231 Galle Road, Colombo 4,
tel +94 11 4 520 130,
www.casacolombo.com
How to enjoy Colombo
At the end of a work day, have sunset cocktails on the checkerboard terrace by the sea at the Galle Face Hotel, one of Asia’s oldest, or go for a stroll on the seaside promenade on Galle Face Green
• Visit the Gangarama Buddhist temple and its tranquil Seema Malaka on Beira Lake.
• Walk the streets of Fort and Pettah, making a stop at the Dutch Museum.
• Hail a three-wheeler tuk tuk for a ride around Independence Square, or join residents for a jog or walk on the new tree-lined pedestrian avenues here.
• Take a Sunday stroll around the Vihara Maha Devi park and purchase art pieces displayed on the park fence by local artists.
• Eat a rice-and-curry lunch packet – if you work in an office, this is a big part of Sri Lankan office culture.
• For a quick sandwich on the run and a good coffee in between meetings try Cinnamon Grand Coffee Stop.
• Try hoppers and kottu roti from any roadside café, and for a more upmarket local feast head to Curry Leaf at the Hilton Hotel or Nuga Gama at Cinnamon Grand.
• Pick up a local Dialog SIM card from the Crescat shopping mall – it’s much cheaper than using international roaming.
• Tea and cashew nuts are great gifts for office colleagues back home, or pick something from Paradise Road at Town Hall or Barefoot shopping centre in Colombo 3.
• Avoid travelling to meetings during the school rush hours of 7am to 9am and 1pm to 3pm. Try and have all your meetings in one place.
• The only time to enjoy a run is between 5.30am and 7am, otherwise use the hotel gym or swim instead.
How to get there
The city is well connected internationally with about 30 flights coming in daily to the international airport, which is about 45 minutes away from the city centre, traffic permitting. The national carrier, Sri Lankan Airlines (www.srilankan.lk) has direct flights from several destinations in Europe and Asia while all of the top Middle Eastern and Asian airlines, including Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com), Cathay Pacific (www.cathaypacific.com), Emirates (www.emirates.com) and Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com) have increased frequency to Colombo to serve increased demand. Sri Lankan Airlines will soon introduce seaplane flights to the Beira Lake, getting travellers into the city in half the time it takes now, a spokesperson for the airline says.
