Robin Gauldie finds dystopian pop art and an iconic crime fiction eatery in the Norwegian capital
1. Akershus fortress
Overlooking the harbour, less than 200 metres from the Radhusplads and the city centre, Akershus Fortress is a natural starting point for your tour. King Haakon V founded it in the late 13th century to control Oslo’s harbour.
During the 14th century, Norway, Denmark and Sweden gradually formed a Baltic superstate that reached its height after the merger of the nations in 1397. The union collapsed in 1523, and Akershus played its part in wars between Sweden and Denmark in the 16th and 18th centuries. It never fell to direct assault, but surrendered to German invaders without a shot in 1940.
In 1848, Kongelige Slott replaced Akershus as the royal residence, but the old castle still has an air of grandeur, thanks to the 17th-century king of Denmark and Norway, Christian IV, who added fine Renaissance halls. You can visit four of these, including the royal banquet hall. They are very much in Scandinavian style, with polished wood floors and ceilings, high arched windows and gilt chandeliers.
You can also visit the Royal Mausoleum, where Haakon VII and Queen Maud are entombed.
Open daily 7am-9pm; entry Nkr70 (£7). Akershus Festning; nasjonalefestningsverk.no
2. Pushwagner Gallery
Walk about 500 metres past the Radhusplads and through the stylish Aker Brygge waterfront area to Tjuvholmen, where, since 2005, a stretch of derelict dockland has been transformed into a showcase of modern architecture, with apartment complexes, trendy offices and art galleries.
The Pushwagner Gallery houses the works of Hariton Pushwagner, arguably Norway’s most remarkable contemporary artist. Born in 1940, his work was largely ignored until 2008, when drawings from his dystopian graphic novel Soft City received overdue acclaim after being exhibited at the Berlin Biennale.
Hundreds of his prints and illustrations are on display, some of which – faces and figures in vivid primary colours – are inevitably bracketed with pop artists such as Warhol. Others – depicting skies filled with missiles and bombers raining death on crammed cityscapes – are very much his own style.
Open daily 12pm-6pm; free entry. Tjuvholmen alle 10; pushwagner.no
3. Astrup Fearnley Museum
A short walk away, this contemporary art museum straddles a canal on the west side of Tjuvholmen.
Created by the Astrup Fearnley Foundation (financed by the shipping and offshore oil dynasty), it moved to a new building by Italian architect Renzo Piano in 2012, which looks like a stranded ship.
Many of the 20th century’s best known artists are represented, and pride of place goes to Jeff Koons’ gilt porcelain sculpture of Michael Jackson with his chimp, Bubbles. “Imagine Brazil” , an exhibition presenting emerging Brazilian artists, runs until March 2014.
Open Tues-Wed and Fri 12pm-5pm; Thurs 12pm-7pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; entry Nkr100 (£10). Strandpromenaden 2; afmuseet.no
4. Restaurant Schroder
Walk back to Aker Brygge and take the 21 bus 2km north to St Hanshaugen, for a spot that features in Norwegian noir-maestro Jo Nesbo’s series starring detective Harry Hole.
This is the thirsty sleuth’s favourite local; it’s also one of the best and most affordable traditional Norwegian restaurants in Oslo.
The menu features filling dishes such as plaice, reindeer and bacon with white beans. Two courses from Nkr200 (£20).
Open Mon-Fri 10am-3pm. Waldemar Thranes, Gate 8; tel +47 2260 5183; restaurant-schroder.no
5. Basar Hallene
Take bus 30 back to the city centre and get off at Stortorvet. The arcades and halls of this red-brick building once housed the butchers that supplied the city’s meat market.
Constructed between 1841 and 1858, it now houses restaurants and, in summer, an open-air café, as well as an array of shops, including silversmiths, glass and jewellery makers and ceramic artists. Try Husfloen for classic, hand-knitted winter wear.
Open daily 10am-5pm; Kirkeristens, junction of Karl Johans Gate and Dronningens Gate.
6. Olympen
Finish by taking bus 21 to Toyengata, where one of the oldest and most convivial taverns in Oslo is right next to the stop. Opened in 1892, Olympen owes some of its merry atmosphere to the cosy surroundings – all dark panelled wood and glowing pendant lamps.
But it owes even more to its list of more than 100 craft ales from all over the world, including smoked ales and fruit beers, stouts, porters, and pale ales from breweries such as Oslo’s own Nogne O.
Open Mon-Tues and Fri-Sat 11am-12.30m. Gronlandsleiret 15; tel +47 2410 1999; olympen.no
The Oslo Pass permits free entry to 30 museums and attractions and travel on public transport. A 24-hour pass costs Nkr270 (£27). visitoslo.com
