Maida Pineda discovers a natural wonderland in the wild wetlands around Darwin
Darwin, the Top End of Down Under, is vastly different from Sydney, Melbourne or Perth. The iconic red AusPost mailboxes confirm I have arrived in Australia, but the oppressive heat, abundance of coconut trees and other tropical foliage make me think otherwise. My hosts insist on taking me to the clichéd crocodile attractions. Hours after my arrival, I visit the city’s most popular attraction, Crocosaurus Cove, to safely view crocs in a glass aquarium and caged enclosures – but it is the inspiring spectacle of hundreds of colourful, chirping lorikeets flying to roost in the trees at dusk that have me spellbound, their fluttering feathers a cacophony of red, blue, green and yellow.
The Spectacular Crocodile Cruise is indeed a thrilling encounter, with saltwater crocodiles launching themselves out of the Adelaide River to snap up buffalo meat dangling on a long bamboo stick. But I prefer a more sedate nature show, and on the drive to Mary River National Park we do some wildlife-spotting, seeing countless termite mounds, wallabies hopping alongside the road, and white egrets flying by.
But the greatest natural spectacle happens at 5pm. Arriving at Bamurru Plains, on the edge of the Timor and Arafura seas, we switch to an open 4WD safari vehicle and bump through acres and acres of farmland harbouring over 4,000 resident water buffaloes, herds of gorgeous wild horses, countless agile wallabies and eagles soaring overhead. Just as the sky changes from a deep orange to take on a violet hue, we arrive at a billabong. The Northern Territory is known for its phenomenal sunsets, and as water buffaloes soak benignly in the wetlands in front of us, we experience a truly magical moment. No photograph or video can adequately capture the profound wonder of this sunset, but all too soon we are dragged away to reach Bamurru Plains’ nine safari bungalows before darkness sets in.
This property is managed like a luxury B&B, with all the green sensibilities you’d expect in a location like this. We gather together around one long table for dinner, which is astonishingly refined and absolutely delicious. From bush ingredients Chef Mick creates culinary wonders like prawn and mud crab Arancini with tomato salad aioli; it goes down a treat with a smooth sauvignon blanc.
Next morning at the crack of dawn we begin our airboat exploration of the wetlands. We immediately hear the magpie geese – which give the resort its Aboriginal name – calling as they perch in barren trees, and slowly the morning light reveals the rest of the wetlands. Our guide, Cat, brings us to a magical place filled with enormous pink water lilies as far as the eye can see. At another location
we marvel at a white-bellied sea eagle, and later come across a flashing forest kingfisher making a machine gun sound. By 8am we head back to the camp. I compliment Cat on the great dusk and dawn show. “It’s not me,” she smiles. “Mother Nature just happens to be a good friend.”
GETTING THERE
There is increased air connectivity between Darwin and Asia; one of the newest flights to the city is offered by SilkAir, which flies four times a week from Singapore. Jetstar launched a thrice-weekly direct service between Darwin and Manila in February last year.
The wet season is from November to March, with temperatures ranging from 25?C to 32?C. It is best to head to the Top End in the dry season from April to October, when temperatures are a more comfortable 23?-31?C and – more importantly – the humidity is lower.
