Melbourne, Sydney and even Adelaide may justifiably rate higher in artistic, culinary and fashion stakes. But Brisbane is playing serious catch-up and basks in a warmer, hard-to-beat climate, writes Chris Pritchard
Cranes swing across building sites in Brisbane. I gaze idly at them from a rooftop with hotelier Peter Gittoes. In my hand is a glass of Queensland’s much-derided but steadily improving white wine from the state’s nearby “granite belt” region, anchored by the town of Stanthorpe. “They’re still busy,” Gittoes declares. “Our cranes are no rusting memorials.”
Construction projects, with few exceptions, haven’t stalled. Brisbane, mildly sub-tropical capital of this self-styled “Sunshine State”, still buzzes – even if less audibly in tougher economic times. Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd’s government says his country is less affected by the global economic meltdown than some nations. Within Australia, the Queensland state capital is the least buffeted of cities, even if some important industries such as tourism have been adversely affected.
Brisbane remains the nation’s fast-growing city. State Premier Anna Bligh is committed to a “keep Queensland strong” policy, contending “cutting-edge technology at an affordable price” is one of Queensland’s export strengths. Education is also a key export, with Queensland universities openly dependent on earnings from Asian students.
Brisbane – with 1.85 million people in its greater metropolitan area and additional big population concentrations to its immediate south (Gold Coast) and north (Sunshine Coast) – occupies a curve in the Brisbane River, 10km upstream from the waterway’s mouth. The river, long neglected and dirty, has in the past decade become a source of urban pride. “Riverside” no longer means downmarket, with the city’s highest-priced real estate overlooking an artery bustling with commuter ferries and pleasure craft – and fringed by water’s-edge eateries.
Because of an enviable location on Australia’s east coast, Brisbane is crucial to Australian trade, the bulk of which is with Asia. A busy seaport and airport emphasise this. For passengers, non-stop flights ply to Asian capitals. A vast Queensland hinterland quarries minerals and harvests agricultural output which leave from Brisbane. The city is an important base for Asia-Pacific commerce. Global companies with regional offices in Brisbane include IBM, Boeing and Sun Microsystems.
Mind you, it’s easy to do business in Brisbane. Executives seem constantly on the lookout for opportunities to export to Asia. Manners are informal (first-name terms are assumed and back-slapping hosts don’t wait for an invitation).
Dress? It’s casual. Indeed, one company chief I by chance bump into in the lobby of a steel-and-glass tower comes toward me, hand outstretched, in an Hawaiian-style shirt. “Must rush,” he says, after the briefest of pleasantries. “I’m off to meet my bankers.” Dressed like that? Only in Queensland. Later, at lunch, I meet another prominent executive. He, too, is in a loud shirt but other guests don’t blink. Let’s err on the side of caution: open-neck white shirt for men and lightweight “smart casual” outfits for women.
As one Brisbane fashionista puts it to me: “Women should dress as for meetings as in Bangkok or Singapore. Men should dress as they would for meetings in Honolulu.” Now you know. I guess they think, sensibly, that you’ve arrived to talk business, not wardrobes.
Brisbane has thrown plenty of money at one of its key headaches: perception. An offensive and dated view is that this is a huge hick town, but it’s not. Melbourne, Sydney and even Adelaide may justifiably rate higher in artistic, culinary and fashion stakes – but Brisbane is playing serious catch-up and basks in a warmer, hard-to-beat climate. Its mood is vibrant, its streets cosmopolitan.
In the city’s South Bank area, a short walk from downtown, I amble between a string of arts-oriented buildings, theatres, galleries and museums with the Gallery of Modern Art (see Tip-off) the newest component.
Another recent phenomenon: an explosion of boutique hotels. Even a decade ago, comfort and polish were confined to big-chain properties with which Brisbane remains well supplied. Times have changed (see the following pages). Chester’s principal, Peter Gittoes, tells me his hotel has found “business trips increasingly involve a solo cost-conscious traveller”.
“What’s more, they’re often repeat visitors. They want value and they’re tired of big properties good as these are. They want something personalised, someone to stop and chat to them.”
It’s a view echoed by Lachlan Purnell, general manager of Urban, another boutique property, who insists his hotel attracts an “internet-savvy, cool crowd of working professionals who want to stay in hip neighbourhoods and experience a destination through locals’ eyes”.
Peter Savoff, general manager of rival Emporium, takes much the same view, maintaining “luxury product” and “personalised service” are increasingly demanded even as guests try to pare costs. “Most Brisbane hotel business is from the corporate market,” he notes. Guest survey responses show travellers want “green practices in place in convenient locations,” he says.
It seems business visitors’ demands are finally being met in the Queensland state capital.
RAISING THE BAR
If company contracts insist you stay with one of the global chain hotels, Brisbane boasts a Conrad, Hilton, Sofitel and others. However, a phenomenon over the past three years is a dramatic spike in the number of upscale boutique properties. Previously very rare in Brisbane, they’re now commonplace.
Though they vary, they’re generally of five-star standard. Amenities aren’t identical – but most have swimming pools and tout free Wi-Fi (where this isn’t available, high-speed broadband is offered as an alternative).
New boutique properties aim squarely at corporate trippers, snaring self-contained business travellers who rely on laptops and shun business centres. Three of our five picks are in the Fortitude Valley area, locally known as “the Valley” and on the edge of downtown. Though it retains a raffish reputation and is awash in restaurants and bars, it’s ultra-rapidly being gentrified for inner-city living.
Five of the best we discovered while researching Brisbane:
CHESTER’S
Pablo, biggest fish by far in his wall-to-wall tank filled with fellow Amazonian freshwater habitués, dominates a giant minimalist room where modern art is hung. Current newspapers and magazines sit on coffee tables and complimentary cooked breakfast is served by hands-on owners Maria and Peter Gittoes. Rooms, among Brisbane’s best, are spacious, with plasma TVs. There’s a rooftop bar and the whole place is Wi-Fi enabled (no extra charge).
Brand-new Chester’s doubles from five to 10 rooms in August, already counting business leaders (particularly in pharmaceuticals and wine) among regulars.
CONTACT: 26 Chester Street, Fortitude Valley, tel 61 7 3852 2218, www.chesters.net.au
LIMES
Widely described as the city’s hippest address, its hot reputation lures theatrical, media and fashion types. The rooftop bar is one of Brisbane’s in-vogue hangouts, with tented cover for rainy days and to-die-for views of city lights. The 21 rooms are compact but stylishly minimalist or, as the hotel puts it, “unencumbered by excessive ornamentation”. Black-tiled bathrooms have showers but no tubs.
CONTACT: 142 Constance Street, Fortitude Valley, tel 61 7 3852 9000, www.limeshotel.com.au
ROTHBURY ON ANN
A tastefully restored oddity among Brisbane’s top-drawer boutique hotels in that it trades on its past rather than contemporary ambience, this 60-roomer – a mix of rooms, one-bedroom apartments and two-bedroom apartments – commands a loyal business following.
Beautifully restored the former Shell House, an office building, was built in 1931. It has a wrought-iron and marble stairway off a grand lobby with terrazzo flooring. In-room furnishings are classical with beiges, blues and reds dominant. Apartments are popular with living-room areas ideal for hush-hush meetings. A rooftop garden overlooks the business district.
CONTACT: 301 Ann Street, tel 61 7 3239 8888, www.rothburyhotel.com
EMPORIUM
The best known of Brisbane’s boutique properties, this 102-roomer opens onto a lively shopping precinct with 35 retail outlets including restaurants and fashion stores. Décor: minimalist, blended with bygone elegance (chandeliers, for instance). A rooftop lap pool lures keep-fit executives. Rooms come with Bose sound systems and large plasma TVs.
CONTACT: 1000 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley, tel 61 7 3253 6999, www.emporium.com.au
URBAN
Perched on a hill and separated by a small park from downtown, the new 180-room Urban is on Brisbane’s “medical strip” where top doctors’ offices line Wickham Terrace. A tired hotel was recently gutted and reborn in business-oriented style. Bigger than its boutique rivals, it retains a small-hotel ambience. Rooms have big TVs. The Gazebo restaurant and bar is a trendy after-work gathering place.
CONTACT: 345 Wickham Terrace, tel 61 7 3831 6177, www.hotelurban.com.au
TIP OFF: smart travel intelligence
BRISBANE’S downtown grid is easily negotiated. But here’s an insider tip in case you lose direction: the business district’s north-south streets are named after former British kings, east-west streets after British queens. (British monarchs are also heads of state in independent Australia, a Commonwealth member.)
GO TO GOMA
Opened almost three years ago, the Gallery of Modern Art (above) – locally known as “Goma” and adjoining the Queensland Art Gallery – is on a South Bank riverside strip dedicated to music and culture. It is a quarter, adjoining downtown, giving the lie to sneers that Brisbane is culture-free. The gallery is strong on Australian art as well as hosting visiting exhibitions, particularly from Asia. www.qag.qld.gov.au
BRIDGE THE GAP
Spanning Brisbane River, Story Bridge’s escorted climbs (www.storybridgeadventureclimb.com.au) peak at 74m with vistas of the city, countryside and coastline. Guides’ patter encompasses bridge history, city facts and gory crimes. Called a climb, it’s actually a safe, harnessed walk with some steps – taking its cue from bigger Sydney’s famed “bridge climb”. This is an entertaining way to spend a free morning or afternoon. Less exerting: scenic ferry rides on cleaned-up Brisbane River (www.metrolinkqueensland.com.au) or lazy strolls through the riverside City Botanic Garden (tel 61 7 3214 9999) built by convicts in 1825.
DINING
Eagle Street Pier is among the best of the city’s riverside restaurant precincts. We find ourselves there on two consecutive nights: first at beefy Cha Cha Char (www.chachachar.com.au) and the next evening at Italianate Il Centro (www.il-centro.com.au) where we shun standard Italian fare to opt for southeast Queensland’s celebrated seafood. Both establishments are suited to business entertaining, with well-spaced tables.
KIDS IN TOW
If the family is joining you before or after business, take an hour-long southbound train ride (www.citytrain.com.au) from Brisbane to the Gold Coast (more “mass tourism” than the Sunshine Coast immediately to Brisbane’s north). Bus transfers from rail stations reach theme parks such as Dreamworld, Movie World and Sea World or to Surfers Paradise (beach, entertainment and retail).
TAXIS
Taxis are quick to arrive, efficient and cheap. Call tel 13 10 08, within Australia, but be sure to specify it’s a regular taxi you want as “silver service” luxury cabs and “maxicab” minibuses incur surcharges. Free city buses cruise a downtown loop.
WI-FI
Most hotels offer Wi-Fi, often in the guestrooms but more commonly in public areas. Some malls are enabled as are many of the city’s ubiquitous coffee shops including Starbucks.
HOTLINES
POLICE, FIRE, AMBULANCE tel 000 (national emergency number, within Australia).
TAXIS tel 13 10 08
PUBLIC TRANSPORT INFORMATION tel 13 12 30
BRISBANE VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE www.visitbrisbane.com.au
