Once a Bavarian backwater known for its cold, calculating industry, modern München (Munich) is both world class and warm. The Haus der Deutschen Kuns (House of German Art), converted from the Third Reich’s first of several monumental examples of Nazi architecture, and Oktoberfest together signify the broad spectrum of culture and activities available here. Additionally, a spate of new hotels demonstrate an eye for approachable design, and restaurants and bars boasting cosmopolitan food buzz with energy from happy hour till dawn.
For a city of less than 1.5 million and the country’s third-largest by population, Munich’s cultural quotient packs a punch, especially in light of the fact that the city was completely razed during World War II. As the only west German city meticulously rebuilt according to original guidelines, its street grid and architectural style retains an old-world charm. Not to say it’s an outdated or unnavigable town: the public transportation system is world class, making it more efficient in terms of time and cost than driving or taking taxis (even when connecting to the airport). These might be some of the reasons Munich is consistently a top-ranking city in liveability studies.
Munich is also accustomed to transporting large numbers (think Oktoberfest) so the transport options are varied. Bus, tram, underground subways (U-Bahn) and suburban commuter trains (S-Bahn) swathe a comprehensive footprint over the entire greater metropolitan area. With punctual, tidy traffic planning, bikes and cars co-exist with ease – though the latter will be hard-pressed to find parking, especially in the city centre, where a high density of historic and cultural sites are located.
History lesson
The “Old Town,” or Altstadt in German, is worth at least a day or two of wandering although even that may not be enough time to take in all the riches waiting to be discovered. Starting from Marienplatz, a large pedestrian square at the heart of the city, one can see City Hall as well as watch the Neues Rathaus Glockenspeil, an automated clock with figurines, bells and whistles that plays daily at 11am, noon and 5pm. It was handmade in 1517 to commemorate the passing of the bubonic plague. Watch out for another plague: pickpockets. Tourists flock here and take little notice of belongings while gawping skyward.
Across from Ohel Jakob, the Jewish synagogue, is the Jewish Museum, covering Jewish life and culture over the course of the city’s history it rings a sombre note to Germany’s past. It was completed in 2006, 68 years after Hitler ordered Kristallnacht – “night of broken glass” – a series of attacks against Jews in Germany and parts of Austria preceding the Holocaust.
Distinctive to the region is the Bavarian National Museum, noted especially for its folklore collection including ivory reliefs, goldsmith works, textiles, glass painting, tapestries and shrines. Examples of Middle Age interior design merit a walk through.
From here it is an easy stroll to the München Residenz (Munich Palace), which served as the seat of government and the residence of Bavarian dukes and kings from 1508 to 1918. It‘s a magnificent palace that is now home to a museum and gardens, leading into the famed Englischer Garten or English Gardens. One of the world’s largest urban public parks, it is larger than New York’s Central Park.
All on display
On the opposite side of town the BMW Museum is known to impress car aficionados and techies alike; groups can call ahead to try and arrange private tours. For more in achievements in science and technology, the Deutsches Museum will keep children and adults equally engaged for days on end.
Finally, for world-class art collections, head to the Maxvorstadt district in the northwest, within reasonable walking distance of the city centre and near the university district. Here, amid lawns and overlooked by the Propyläen monument on Königsplatz, you’ll find museums such as the Alte Pinakothek (containing European paintings from the Middle Ages through the Rococo), the Neue Pinakothek (home to late 18th to early 20th century art), and the Pinakothek der Moderne which houses four collections, including architecture, design and applied arts, contemporary paintings and sculpture, and the Bavarian state graphics collection.
International flavours
It’s a lot to see in a short time, but luckily good restaurants and bierhauses (beer houses) are interspersed throughout, so visitors won’t go hungry or thirsty. The real danger is getting sucked into the warm atmosphere, drinking away the afternoon.
Smack centre is the open-air Viktualien Markt, peddling high-end fresh food, mostly local produce and cheeses along with Bavarian schweinshax’n (pork knuckle) and speck (juniper-flavoured ham), from early morning through nighttime. Other Bavarian classics available include weisswurst (white sausage), various schnitzels and knödels (dumplings).
For top-shelf products, Dallymayr, a luxury delicatessen dating back to the 17th century can’t be beaten. The coffeeshop on the second floor of the sunflower yellow stucco building makes for a relaxing break.
Beyond this, there’s a flourishing experimental and sophisticated food scene that would give New York’s Brooklyn or London’s Belgravia a run for their taste buds. The Literaturhaus, on historic Salvatorplatz, is a three-storey extravaganza dedicated to the literary world, offering public events and resources centered around books, though there is a café, bar/bistro and restaurant. The first is an ideal place to relax and enjoy well-executed flakey pastries while watching the city’s cognoscenti congregate.
Along Leopoldstrasse, a long avenue perfect for showing off luxury cars, gather a conglomeration of international cuisines such as Brazilian at Asado, or sushi at Bento Box. At Bogenhauser Hof, German-Austrian food goes global, incorporating traditional dishes with contemporary touches. Served in a stately villa built as a hunting lodge in 1825, it’s known for smart, sensitive service.
As compared with other areas of Germany, great shopping abounds. Retail stores close by 8pm and on Sundays. The city centre, especially Maximillian Strasse attracts those looking for name brands. Oberpollinger is one local department store worth visiting.
Life after dark
Classic, home-style Bavarian food is the currency at Osterwaldgarten: large portions of hearty meat dishes, bratwurst and potato dumplings, along with pints, will sate any palate. As always, choose between 1pint or 0.5pint at brewhouses, distinguishing Munich from the rest of Germany where 0.3litre glasses are served.
These biergartens are where drinks with clients or business associates happen after-hours, especially during the summer and preferably at any of the “Big Six” in-city breweries for which Munich is historically known. As it’s not unknown for locals to bring food to the gartens, vegetarians themselves would be well advised to carry along snacks, as meat-free menu items are rare.
Theatre and opera options abound, but true night owls tend to head to P1, in the basement of Haus der Kunst. Entry is free, though drink prices more than compensate.
Active pursuits
Once museums, dining, drinking, theatre-going and shopping wear you out, consider heading south toward the Bavarian Alps, where mountains and lakes make for idyllic outdoor adventures, whether winter or summer, or for exploring castles of yore, such as that of “crazy” King Ludwig II. If you’d rather stay in-town, bike along the Eisbach, a tributary of the River Isar. There is always something to do in multifaceted Munich.
Where to stay
Munich hotels tend toward the fancy end of the scale, so while it is inevitable some will cost a pretty penny, the list below aims to include those with a unique identity, charm and appeal. Additionally, a few more accessible and reasonably priced options, both independent and mainstream, are also included.
Whether you go with these picks or not, the key is to avoid staying near the Central Station, with the exception of top-tier Sofitel and the city’s most expensive accommodation, the Bayerischer Hof, as the area can be seedy and noisy.
Bayerischer Hof: Superlatives abound as suits this five-star hotel, where each of the 350 rooms is distinctively designed according to a different style (Bavarian, colonial, Eastern for example). The high-end spa is set amidst the rooftop garden, and five restaurants cater to every predilection. The Cinema Lounge is the perfect venue for press events, movie screenings, private happenings and presentations. Centrally located with many sites of interest mere minutes‘ walk away.
Louis Hotel: It doesn’t get more central than this 72-room hotel just off the Viktualien Markt down a winding passageway. Guests will find a precious entrance on Little Square, and upon entering the lobby be greeted by the lavender scent, which perfumes the entire hotel. Unpolished white wood and minimalist lines are suggestive of a ski chalet, with warm autumn colour touches making the communal space cosy yet contemporary. Be sure to schedule dinner at Emiko Restaurant and Bar for refined Japanese cuisine. www.louis-hotel.com
Holiday Inn Munich City Centre: The US chain hotel gets a friendly Bavarian upgrade at this Holiday Inn, where accessibility is king. U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations are steps away, and top floor rooms (request 10th or 11th floor rooms) provide unparalleled views of the city centre to the west, especially at night when the Old Town, the Deutsches Museum and the public bathhouse called Volksbath come to life with lights. The hotel has 582 rooms and caters to conferences with 16 meeting spaces, including those large enough to accommodate over 600 people. www.holidayinn.com
The Rilano Hotel Munchen: A Worldhotels property with 150 rooms, it attracts a sophisticated crowd and is located in the trendy Schwabing district. Though just 10 minutes by U-Bahn to the city centre, its wide avenues, residential enclaves and open park spaces make it a quieter and less touristy option. Conference facilities, an overwhelming breakfast buffet and technological capabilities make it an easy choice for business travellers seeking an inexpensive yet comfortable and efficient base. www.rilano-muenchen.de
Hotel Gästehaus Englischer Garten: As far as urban bed-and-breakfasts go, this English Garden Guesthouse is as good as they get. Bordering the massive public park in a well-to-do residential neighbourhood, guests are treated to quiet and comfort without being far from the action (Leopold Strasse and its nightlife is walking distance away). The woman who runs the cosy hotel puts on a home-style breakfast and provides guests with caring advice. There are three accommodation options and a total of 31 rooms. wwwhotelgastehausenglischergarten.de
CONTACTS:
Jewish Museum Munich St.-Jakobs-Platz 16; tel +49 89 2339 6096 Bavarian National Museum Prinzregentenstrasse 3; tel +49 89 211 2401 Residenz München Max-Joseph-Platz 3; tel +49 89 290 671 BMW Museum Petuelring 130; tel +49 89 3822 3307 Deutsches Museum Museumsinsel 1; tel +49 89 21791 Königsplatz Barer Strasse 27; tel +49 89 2380 5216 Viktualien Markt Viktualienmarkt 6; tel +49 89 230 320 DallymAyr Dienerstrasse 14-15; tel+ 49 89 21350 Literaturhaus Salvatorplatz 1; tel +49 89 291 9600 Bogenhauser Hof Ismaninger Strasse 85; tel +49 89 985 586 Osterwaldgarden Keferstrasse 12; tel +49 89 3840 5040 Haus der Kunst Prinzregentenstrasse 1; tel +49 89 211 1140 Oberpollinger Neuhauser Strasse 18; tel +49 89 290 230How to get there
Munich is a busy travel hub. From Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore and Tokyo, Lufthansa offers direct flights. Other carriers serving the city include Air China, Air France, Air New Zealand, British Airways, Emirates, Finnair, Qatar, Singapore Airlines and Turkish Airlines.
