Spending time in the company of a Michelin-starred chef is awe-inspiring and a terribly humbling experience at the same time. There is real magic in their kitchens.

Watching Frederic Chabbert, chef de cuisine at one-Michelin-starred Petrus in the Island Shangri-La Hongkong, demonstrate how he turns individual ingredients into mouth-watering masterpieces, it is abundantly clear that – beyond the debates over the judging of various cuisine types, the Michelin rating system, the ethnicity of the inspectors and potential inherent bias towards French food – artists as accomplished and dedicated as Chabbert are truly deserving of such high honours.

In the kitchen at the top of the 17-storey hotel (which occupies the 39^th to 56^th floors of Pacific Place), Chabbert speaks easily about his contemporaries and praises their efforts as he carefully monitors the searing of a beautiful piece of veal. Next, he places it briefly into an oven, then removes it and turns it every five minutes or so for a half hour, allowing it “to relax” and ensuring that the juices on the inside cook the meat to a perfect medium-rare. As he works, he offers tips on testing the doneness of meat without having to carve into it, describes how to bring out the best flavour in a duck (chop up coriander and slather it all over the meat), discusses his presentation philosophy – “you should eat it first with your eyes” – and casually refers to Vincent Thierry, head chef at Caprice, as a friend.

“It is not such a big world out here,” Chabbert says. “There are not very many of us.” It is a unique glimpse into the world of a Michelin-starred chef, and a look at just what it takes to make that coveted cut.

When the subject of the Michelin Guide rating system and the drama that surrounded the announcement of the Hongkong and Macau 2009 list inevitably comes up, Chabbert remains unfazed. Perhaps, this is, as he says, because he is a French chef. “Those who don’t have the stars will, of course, say they don’t care,” he jokes. “But as a French chef,” he says looking back from the jus he is carefully stirring to accompany his signature Veau de Correze, “you care.”

The first Michelin Guide was published in 1900 and covered just one country: France. Started by André and Edouard Michelin as a personal review book about the restaurants they deemed quality, they expanded with their first venture outside of France to Belgium in 1904 and have since grown on the continent to cover 20 European countries.

It wasn’t until 2005 that the group branched out beyond Europe, with a New York guide in 2005 and the much talked-about Tokyo guide in 2007. Outside of Europe, Michelin now covers four cities in the US, Tokyo and now, Hongkong and Macau. While the Tokyo guide made headlines by surpassing Paris as the city with the most Michelin-starred restaurants (its current count is a staggering 227), Hongkong has made its debut shrouded in scathing local press and hot debates over the judging criteria, overlooked restaurants and talk of inspectors with a lack of understanding of Chinese food.

In fact, Michelin inspectors have been in Hongkong since November 2007, anonymously dining at the crème de la crème of the city’s tables, using a system that has remained the same since it was solidified in Paris in the 1930s. An inspector from Michelin visits every restaurant listed at least once, and for those receiving stars, it can be many times. For some, like two-star Bo Innovation (see review on page 64-65), multiple inspectors visited six to eight times, while Lung King Heen of the Four Seasons hotel racked up a total of 12 visits before its three stars were officially decided.

While inspectors are meant to remain anonymous, there are instances when their true identity is revealed. Massimo Gavina of Cucina at Marco Polo hotel, says he recognises an inspector by virtue of his experience in the industry.

Other restaurants have confirmed that judges will from time to time reveal themselves after a meal – causing much second-guessing in the kitchen. But whether a judge is revealed or known does not affect the outcome or the number of stars awarded. Jean-Luc Naret, director of Michelin Guides, emphasises their independence, one of the keys to the guide’s well-regarded reputation and its ability to remain the authority on fine dining around the world.

While every year there are surprises and disappointments, the inaugural Hongkong and Macau list evoked a wave of opposition, especially from local press, though it seems that the Michelin Guide expected a less-than-welcomed reception. At a press conference announcing the star awards, Naret noted that many of Hongkong’s finest restaurants seemed to be “tucked away in hotels”, one of the critiques that remains an issue for many in the industry. But before a run-through of the catalogue of criticisms, it is important to note that Chef Chan Yan Tak of Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons has made history as the world’s first Chinese chef to receive three stars. And, only five of the 23 starred restaurants in Hongkong, and one of the six in Macau serve European fare – another complaint heard from the US, Tokyo and certainly, Hongkong.

For the first edition covering the region, “12 inspectors visited the restaurants, of which, two are Chinese” and 10 are European, remarks Naret. This has been a sticking point for many, who feel that certain Chinese restaurants were not rated high enough, or that some were forgotten. One columnist described this reaction to the guide as a type of “culinary xenophobia”, that could be dangerous if taken to the extreme. If, for instance, Parisians claimed that a Chinese inspector could not understand their food and therefore, should not be judging French restaurants, a backlash and calls of racism would ensue. However, in Hongkong, it somehow seems to be accepted.

There are obvious local culinary differences, and even Naret remarked publicly that the nuances of Chinese cuisine and all of its regional specialties takes proper training and an understanding of culture and history to appreciate. But he cautions: “Bear in mind that Michelin inspectors are all professionals, who are full-time Michelin employees and who pay for all of their meals. The fact that the Michelin Guide is part of the number one tyre-maker Michelin, allows us this way of doing and guarantees our total independence regarding the restaurant and
hotel industry.”

As the guide expands in China – inspectors have been rumoured to be sussing out Shanghai, Beijing and Taipei – “of course, other Chinese inspectors will be hired and trained and in the coming years, the team will be 100 percent local (in the same way that it is) 100 percent local in the States,” says Naret. “Once hired, (new inspectors) will receive the same training as all our newly hired inspectors, spending a few months in the other countries covered by the Michelin Guide to learn, for example, about the criteria for awarding stars and determining comfort categories.”

Rating systems have always been a subject to their fair share of controversy, and the Michelin Guide is no exception. Experiences also differ, and some create long-lasting impressions. For instance, we visited one Hongkong institution recently and ended up with food poisoning, yet its one-star Michelin rating tells a much different tale of standards, service and the quality of food coming out of the kitchen.

According to Naret, the criteria for judging and the process are the same for every guide. “This ensures the consistency of the selection, on which the Michelin Guide’s authority and reputation are based. The criteria for attributing stars are product quality, preparation, flavours, the chef’s ‘personality’ and consistency. Those criteria are used whatever the style and the type of cuisine.”

It is the consistency factor that makes chefs nervous from year to year, as stars are not set in stone and can be both awarded and taken away. Adds Naret: “Chefs must be good all the time; for lunch and dinner, on weekdays and weekends, for starters and main courses and dessert.”

But these tenets can be misleading. In fact, inspectors start judging from the moment they enter the hotel, which has led to more than one disgruntled restaurateur. Explains one: “If there is a guest in the lobby of the hotel who is complaining, or if a lift is out of order, or if the person who used the bathroom before them left a towel out of place… all of that does go into the rating, which is not necessarily reflective of the experience of the restaurant itself.”

True, there is only so much that the chef and wait staff can control, but others – from foodies to critics to chefs themselves – argue that the ambience, the smallest of details and the overall atmosphere created are intangible factors that make or break a dining experience. The food is the raison d’être certainly, but Michelin also understands that the finer details set the stage for the meal to come. The chef’s personality, ingredients on the plate and the techniques used to create incredible dishes found nowhere but that specific restaurant should star in the show.

At the press conference in Hongkong, Naret told journalists: “The good news is that we’ve come, the bad news is that we’re going to stay a long time. It’s difficult to get stars, but it’s even more difficult to retain them.” Whether diners, restaurateurs, chefs or press agree, disagree or find fault with Michelin’s system, the fact that the guide has come to Hongkong before any other city in the region is a significant milestone of which both Hongkong and Macau should be proud.

Chef Chabbert of Petrus offers his opinion, saying: “Overall I think it is a good thing that they are here”, providing a world-class benchmark for fine dining and giving the region a name for haute cuisine. When I first arrived, there were so few of us (high-end establishments).” The city has begun to come into its own, and competition for recognition is fierce.

For those like Chabbert, who build their careers behind the scenes at the best restaurants in the world, Michelin is one of the highest achievements – next to, he says, praise for his food from his mother. The ultimate goal for any chef in this league of course, is always three stars. Chabbert says: “We have one, now we want more.”

Christina Kautzky

Below, we profile three restaurants which made culinary history in this region.

Petrus at the Island Shangri-La

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Located on the 56^th floor of the Island Shangri-La, Petrus not only has a beautiful main dining room with French Impressionist paintings on the walls, crystal chandeliers, plush chairs around expertly laid tables and a serene ambience, it also boasts one of the most spectacular views in all of Hongkong. 

THE FOOD: Chef Frederic Chabbert creates dishes that bring out the best of each ingredient, most of which are flown in directly from France to ensure the utmost
in freshness and authenticity of flavours.

The menu is a testament to Chabbert’s range in the kitchen and highlights a variety of regional cuisines from France. Dishes include soft-boiled egg with truffle sauce and seasonal vegetables, Dover sole with white wine sauce, and Veal from Correze with potatoes Aligot and a rich jus sauce.

The restaurant’s cheese board boasts an extensive array of artisanal cheeses, some of which cannot be found anywhere else in Hongkong. For those with a sweet tooth, Petrus prepares several types of tarts, cakes, chocolates and other delicacies daily.

DRINKS: The restaurant has a well-deserved reputation for its extensive wine list, which is exceptional, and sommelier Kent Wong can recommend the perfect varietal – with expert knowledge of the Châteaux and vintages on the list.

SERVICE: Maître d’ Patrice Le Nouvel and the staff at Petrus make the haute-cuisine dining experience an exceptional one from the moment diners enter the restaurant. The visit was seamless from beginning to end, with every detail attended to.

PRICES: Lunches are priced at HK$418 (US$53) for two courses and HK$478 (US$61) for three courses. Dinner can be ordered à la carte and there is also a special Menu de l’Artiste from HK$1,280 (US$164), Menu Gourmand from HK$980 (US$126) or the Vegetarian menu at HK$880 (US$113) per person.

VERDICT: As a Michelin-starred restaurant, standards for everything from atmosphere to service to food were exceptionally high, and Petrus exceeded them all. The experience is truly one-of-a-kind in Hongkong.

CONTACT: 56/F Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, Hongkong, tel 852 2877 3838, www.shangri-la.com. Open from 0700 to 1000, lunch from 1200 to 1500 and dinner from 1830 to 2300.

Christina Kautzky

Bo Innovation

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Wanchai has always been a “happening” place, long before Lan Kwai Fong, which makes it the perfect location for a trendsetter like Bo Innovation. Housed within the chic J Senses shopping and dining complex, rising two floors above street level, it is accessible by a private lift shared with Brasserie Le Fauchon.

The restaurant started out in 2005 as a private kitchen in its previous address, Ice House in Central. For those who are not familiar with its flamboyant chef-owner Alvin Leung, there is a huge portrait of him by the entrance. And should you still miss that, he’s the fellow sporting a tattoo on his arm with the Chinese characters  “demon chef”.

Seating is for 74 guests, including 12 in a private room, while the alfresco area accommodates 28.

THE FOOD: Modern Chinese or, in Leung’s words, “X-treme Chinese cuisine”. “At Bo, we are modernising Chinese food and pushing the boundaries of people’s expectations, while respecting the ingredients, traditions and methods of Chinese cooking.” With menus changed once a month, the food here is slow cooked to perfection, deep fried or steamed, using ingredients and seasonings combining the best of East and West, such as black truffle, miso and Chinese pickle sauce. The lunch chef’s menu features tasting-portion selections including Foie Gras Powder and Freeze Dried Raspberry on Toro (the preparation involves air drying foie gras for two weeks), “Yun Nam” Ham Sauce and Crispy Toffee Asparagus (which was decidedly a clever balance of sweet and salty) and Australian Wagyu M9+ and Black Truffle Soy “Cheung Fun” – a unique pairing of Chinese-style rice flour roll and meat flawlessly cooked to medium rare.

DRINKS: The drinks list includes 160 types of red wine, 50 types of whites and 15 types of champagne. But since we had an interview lined up after lunch, we exercised prudence and opted for still water instead.

SERVICE: The wait staff made sure that our glasses were filled before our water ran out and took pains to introduce the dishes as they arrived.

PRICES: À la carte from HK$35 (US$4.50) to HK$200 (US$25), dim sum for two from HK$780 (US$23) and the lunch chef’s menu from HK$680 (US$87); dinner prices vary.

VERDICT: The menu is refreshing and innovative, although some of the “modern Asian” dishes will satisfy only those with an acquired taste bud. The location is crowd pleaser with a cosy ambience.

CONTACT: Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, Hongkong, tel 852 2850 8371, www.boinnovation.com. Open from 1200 to 1500 for lunch and dinner is from 1900 to 2400 (last order at 2200).

Julian Tan

Lung King Heen at Four Seasons Hongkong

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: If you asked me to choose, it would be difficult to say which was the bigger draw here in Michelin’s first three-starred Chinese restaurant – the winning cuisine of Chef Chan Yan Tak or the spectacular “view of the dragon”, which is Kowloon, teeming, colourful and energetic.

In direct contrast is the ambience in this 128-seat restaurant whose contemporary furnishings use earth tones, when combined with the silver and glass accents, create
a tasteful setting that elevates the experience.

Though it would be tempting, I suggest not to sit by the floor-to-ceiling windows. Why? The panorama across Victoria Harbour will be better appreciated, especially at night. There’s a private dining room for 14 people should you require more privacy for that important business meeting or meaningful family reunion.

THE FOOD: I requested a line up, consisting of some of the specialties of the house (which is presumably what impressed the Michelin inspectors so much that they came back a whopping 12 times before awarding the triple accolade). I had the Lung King Heen Dim Sum Combination (steamed lobster and scallop dumpling, steamed Shanghainese dumpling with crab meat, baked whole abalone puff with diced chicken, baked barbecue pork puff in honey), Braised Superior Bird’s Nest stuffed in Bamboo Piths, Crispy Scallops with Fresh Pear, Lung King Heen Roasted Chicken and Braised Egg Noodles with Shredded Fish Maw and Spring Onions in Abalone Sauce. For dessert, it was the silky Sweetened Almond Cream with Egg White.

All were served in small portions, allowing the diner to appreciate each course before moving on to the next. I could have had more of the scallops and roast chicken. These were praiseworthy for their lip-smacking tastiness.

DRINKS: A wide variety of tea and the usual beverages. I asked for the famous long jin (“Dragon Well”) of Hangzhou which has a tart but refreshing flavour. I quaff cups of this whenever it is available.

SERVICE: Unobtrusive but the staff know when to present their services for menu suggestions or fill a glass before it runs empty.

PRICE: A six-course lunch for two starts from HK$500 (US$64).

VERDICT: Not only does Chef Chan deserve to take a bow, but the staff do too for their impeccable service. The crispy scallops and roast chicken will mean lasting memories.

CONTACT: 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hongkong, tel 852 3196 8880, www.fourseasons.com. Open daily for breakfast from 0700 to 1000; lunch from 1200 to 1430 Monday to Saturday, and 1130 to 1500 Sunday and public holidays; and also daily for dinner from 1800 to 1120.

Margie T Logarta