The Portuguese capital’s restaurants offer delectable options for everything from business banquets to al fresco parties, says Jenny Southan.
ELEVEN
Positioned atop one of Lisbon’s many hills, this Relais and Châteaux restaurant earned itself a Michelin star in 2007, and continues to serve artistically inventive haute cuisine that changes seasonally – chef Joachim Koerper’s lobster-themed tasting menu (€139) is a signature. The minimalist cuboid-shaped building features floor-to-ceiling windows facing Sao Jorge castle in the distance, and seats 120 on the ground level. Upstairs is a private dining room for 65. If you are looking for food to impress, this is the place to come. (As with all of these venues, opening times vary and private hire can always be negotiated so give them a call.)
- Rua Marques Fronteira Jardim Amalia Rodrigues; tel +35 121 3862 211; restauranteleven.com
CAN THE CAN
Open since June last year, trendy Can the Can uses one of Portugal’s most well-known exports – tinned fish – as the hook around which its Mediterranean menu is based. Try the steak infused with citrus zest, thyme and anchovies (€20) or the spaghetti with sardines and fresh tomato sauce (€11). In summer, the outdoor terrace seats 120 people, while inside, the ground floor and mezzanine can accommodate 90 diners in a fresh, contemporary interior with shelves stacked with colourful cans and bottles of olive oil.
- 82-83 Terreiro do Paco; tel +35 121 8851 392; canthecanlisboa.com
CASA DO LEAO
Perched among olive trees inside the ancient walls of Jorge Castle, the popular Casa do Leao is one of Lisbon’s most historic restaurants, having opened in the 1950s, and is renowned for its stunning views across the city’s rooftops and expansive Tagus River. At lunchtime, up to 60 guests can eat al fresco, but when the breeze picks up in the evening, it is better to be under the vaulted brick ceiling of the dining room, which seats 120 people. The traditional Portuguese menu includes the national dish of codfish (dried and preserved in salt then soaked in water for a week before boiling), served with onion and spinach and topped with corn bread (€24).
- Castelo de Sao Jorge; tel +35 121 8880 154; pousadas.pt
ESTORIAS
Formerly known as Casa da Comida, this stylishly revamped restaurant has been a hot favourite in Lisbon since opening 37 years ago. Still run by the same family, it underwent a facelift last year, bringing the interiors – and the cuisine – into the 21st century. As well as a charming garden deck for 50 people, it has three separate areas inside for up to 60 diners in total. Expect an eclectic mix of furniture and a homely vibe, with cabinets filled with curios and books, and a recently discovered tile mural on one of the back walls. The 29-year-old chef, Miguel Carvalho, has bought youth and vigour to its Portuguese cuisine, with highlights being grilled veal loin with brandy sauce, pine nuts and rice (€22) and deconstructed custard cake (€4.50).
- 1 Travessa das Amoreiras; tel +35 121 3860 889; casadacomida.pt
ADEGA MACHADO
Nestled on one of the cobbled streets of the Bairro Alto, this cult restaurant and music venue reopened last summer after an extensive three-year renovation. With a history dating back to the 1930s, it has long been known as the place to come to hear local “Fado” music, and the walls are adorned with black and white prints of famous singers. The main restaurant seats 110 people, while an outdoor terrace can host 25 and a basement tapas bar 30. The food served is Portuguese with a modern twist – codfish is a staple but you could also sample roasted gammon in its crackling with cream of beans, caramelised onions and red pepper coulis (€37).
- 91 Rua do Norte; tel +35 121 3422 282; adegamachado.pt
MUSEU DA CERVEJA
Another new entry to the scene, having opened in June last year in a former government office on the main square of Terreiro do Paco, this beer museum and restaurant works well for parties and dinners. You can even arrange private views of the booze-related paraphernalia on display (look out for the vintage bottles from former Portuguese colonies such as Guinea Bissau, Cape Verde, Mozambique and Brazil). The mezzanine-level museum can host 80 people standing, while the downstairs restaurant seats 220 (with 55 in a private dining area) and the outdoor terrace up to 350. There is a menu of 30 types of beer and heaps of fresh seafood and shellfish, including raw barnacles.
- 62-65 Ala Nascente, Terreiro do Paco; tel +35 121 0987 656; museudacerveja.pt
ESPACO LISBOA
Housed in a converted iron factory, this characterful 230-seat restaurant opened in 1999 and still features some of the factory’s old machines and ovens – the latter of which are now used for baking bread and pastries in the open-fronted kitchen. Much of the roof is glass, allowing plenty of natural light in, but the ambiance is cosy, with blue and white murals of people in traditional dress decorating the walls. Buffets are often served in the adjacent “Mercaria” museum shop, and upstairs are two rooms that can be used for meetings or dinners for 12 or 20 delegates. Dishes include roast baby goat (€22.50) and rice pudding with cinnamon (€6).
- 16 Rua da Cozinha Economica; tel +35 213 610 210; espacolisboa.pt
CANTINHO AVILLEZ
Chef Jose Avillez launched this shabby-chic eatery in 2011, and the food he serves up is mouthwateringly good – from baked Nisa cheese with ham and rosemary honey (€6.50) to Portobello mushroom risotto (€18). Presentation is attractive, with locally crafted cabbage-leaf side plates for bread, and wooden furniture. The 32-seat restaurant is better for intimate gatherings or one-on-one meetings, but next door is a welcoming private room with a show kitchen, which holds 44 guests.
- 7 Rua dos Duques de Braganca; tel +35 121 1992 369; cantinhodoavillez.pt
POPULI
Open since last summer, this smart bistro sports black, white and brown décor and a floor-to-ceiling wine rack. Located on the main square of Terreiro do Paco, it has outdoor seating for 130 people. Inside, the ground floor can seat 40, while the upper mezzanine level hosts 47 beneath a low, arched ceiling. Wine pairings, show cooking and live jazz can be arranged. Dishes include the likes of octopus with sweet potato and green sprouts (€18) and beef steak with rocket, grilled vegetables and garlic sauce (€16.50).
- 85-86 Ala Nascente Terreiro do Paco; tel +35 121 8877 395; populi.pt
AURA
Positioned opposite the Museu da Cerveja on Terreiro do Paco, Aura opened in March 2011 and can be privatised for receptions, lunches or dinners. It combines an elegant, contemporary dining room and friendly service with decent food – the Port-poached pear wrapped in sweet pastry (€7.50) is delicious. Aside from the 100-seat restaurant, there are larger spaces for hire – the outdoor patio and cloisters can be hired for 1,800 guests, the Sala do Risco for 1,200, and the café and esplanade for 150.
- Praca do Comercio, Terreiro do Paco; tel +35 121 3469 4477; auraloungecafe.com
LARGO
This funky restaurant, which opened in 2010, occupies what was once the Convento da Igreja dos Martires in the Chiado district. Featuring a vaulted brickwork ceiling, the 86-seat ground floor is decked out in lime green and chocolate furnishings, and the intimate, 45-person mezzanine level in pink. Down one side are three tanks filled with diaphanous jellyfish, which change colour according to the lights they are exposed to. Choose an aperitif from the G&T menu before moving on to fresh tagliolini with shrimps, pine nuts and basil, or fillet steak on sautéed spinach with Azeitao cheese sauce (both €24).
- 10a Rua Serpa Pinto; tel +35 121 3477 225; largo.pt
PEDRO E O LOBO
Run by four friends, the 60-seat Pedro E O Lobo – the name means Peter and the Wolf – presents a seasonal modern Portuguese menu, with both à la carte and tasting options. Temptations might include oxtail with edamame, sautéed red grapes and ratte potato confit, or rice with rabbit, lime leaf scent, spinach and pistachios (both €18). The décor is slick, with dark wood walls and free-hanging lightbulbs hovering above the tables.
- 169 Rua do Salitre; tel +35 121 1933 719; pedroeolobo.pt
ESTUFA REAL
Estufa Real is housed in a former 18th-century royal greenhouse of the Ajuda botanical gardens, and guests are free to have a 300-person drinks reception in the open air, take an postprandial walk under the trees or avail of a 150-capacity marquee. The light-filled restaurant, which accommodates 170 guests across three rooms, specialises in buffets of salads, freshly baked bread and hors d’oeuvres such as tuna with black-eyed peas, and chickpeas with slivered cod and garlic.
- Jardim Botanico da Ajuda, Calcada do Gavao; tel +35 121 3619 400; estufareal.com
SILK CLUB
This noir nightclub sits at the top of a 1980s office building called Espaco Chiado. As well as having a pitch-black VIP lounge for 30 revellers, it has one of the most impressive terraces in the city, with 270-degree vistas and room for 100 people. The seventh-floor, 180-person club also has amazing views through its floor-to-ceiling windows. Dell, Boss Orange and Swatch have all hosted events here, and the on-site kitchen prides itself on its tapas.
- 14 Rua da Misericordia; tel +35 1916 863 479; silk-club.com
