Penang offers a retreat away from the big cities, with the Unesco-listed Georgetown and facilities for medical checks. Julian Tan reports

Penang needs no introduction. Georgetown, capital of Malaysia’s resort island of Penang – also home to the popular Batu Feringgi Beach – has been making headlines since its inception as a Unesco World Heritage Site in July 2008. Recently, the state government passed a ruling to restrict the height of new buildings within the heritage zone to 18m or five storeys high in compliance with the Unesco guidelines. This came after four property developers became embroiled in a conflict of whether to go ahead with development projects exceeding the stipulated height limit of buildings (these decisions were made way before Georgetown landed the prestigious title).

Meandering through the nostalgic streets of Georgetown – or Tanjong (Malay for “cape”) as the Penangites affectionately call their city – it was easy to imagine being on a movie set with the unique pre-war shophouses and buildings. Twentieth Century Fox’s Anna and the King was partly filmed on location in Penang.

The friendly Penangites will be happy to take you on the heritage trail, and at the same time provide interesting nuggets about their hometown. “This is Georgetown,” declared Jaspher Loo, as we drove into Jalan Penang, the most important thoroughfare in Penang under the British occupation until 1957. “Some of the buildings have been restored, but this one needs work,” said Loo, pointing to a dilapidated cathedral set in a large compound, which obviously was in dire need of attention by the authorities.

Fortunately, a number of buildings have escaped from the hands of overly ambitious developers as well as termite infestation, which can obliterate a building if not treated in time. A well-kept address in Georgetown has to be 120 Armenian Street, where Dr Sun Yat Sen, the Father of Modern China, lived with his family in a distinguished-looking shophouse in 1910. The shophouse, built around 1880, now houses a permanent exhibition which includes Dr Sun’s portraits, written works and revolutionary work during his sojourn.

As Joey Bae, our designated driver of the day, made a left turn, a rather different view unfolded before our eyes. Georgetown is an old and preserved grid of streets; a mishmash of pre-war office and residential buildings, factories and warehouses, as well as cathedrals, mosques and temples. Every turn on the road felt like a scene out of a movie about life in the pre-war era.

There are also other things to see and do in Penang. Besides shopping (Gurney Plaza caters to an upmarket customer base), food is another aspect of the tourist’s experience, and with its multicultural mix, Penang offers a selection of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Nyonya food. Where else but in Penang can one indulge in comfort food like an authentic soup noodle dish named after the state? Penang laksa consists of noodles swimming in hot soup made from ikan kembung (mackerel), tamarind, lemongrass, galangal (a type of ginger) and chilli, garnished with mint, sliced pineapple and onion, pungent prawn paste and torch ginger flower. Sedap (delicious).

Following the last couple of years, Penang’s latest call to fame has been as a destination for health tourism. According to the Penang State Tourism, two-thirds of the MYR250 million (US$74.23 million) profit from medical tourism nationwide comes from the state. Penang is a particular draw for international medical tourists from countries like Indonesia and Australia. According to Dato’ Dr Chan Kok Ewe of Island Hospital, one of Penang’s reputable private medical providers, medical costs in Malaysia have been kept affordable due to low foreign currency exchange rates, a low cost of living and reduced material and labour costs.

On my visit to Penang, I checked into Loh Guan Lye Specialists Centre where I underwent a Dexa (Dual Energy X-ray Absorptiometry) bone density scan, although I have no family history of osteoporosis. But being petite and small boned is considered one of the causes of osteoporosis, which was why I decided to go for the scan.

One morning in September, I reported at the hospital’s new wing, where I met customer service officer Joanne Ng who helped with the registration. Shortly after, I was taken upstairs to the clinics, where I picked a number and waited in line to see Dr Goh Eng Tat, the orthopaedic and trauma surgeon. The hospital smelled new, having opened the annex only on September 26.

Then, it was my turn to see Dr Goh. He gave me a rundown of osteoporosis, calling it a “silent disease”. And he continued to explain its causes, that osteoporosis can develop in people with low estrogen levels (found in men with low levels of sex hormones, and post-menopausal women or those who’ve had their ovaries removed). Along with medical conditions such as intestinal and kidney problems, a vitamin D and calcium-deficient diet, smoking, alcohol and lack of exercise are also risk factors. At this point, my guilty conscience was being alleviated. I am neither a smoker nor a drinker (okay, I am a “social drinker”). However, I am guilty of a lifestyle that includes a lax exercise regime and plenty of late nights. (Surely, I can blame it on my years of being a journalist faced with the daily pressure of deadlines, yes?)

The scan was scheduled right after the consultation. I was led to the X-ray section, where this time I was greeted by radiographer Tan Chia Ling. I entered one of the rooms, which was small enough to fit a Dexa scanner, a bed and a changing area with a curtain partition. She gave me a set of grey trousers and shirt to change into, took my weight and height and then asked me to lie on the bed, where my spine and left hip bone would be X-rayed. A couple of minutes was all the scan took.

After a lunch meeting, I returned to Dr Goh’s office for the results of my Dexa scan. A T-Score of +1 and above is considered ideal, while a T-Score of between -1 and -2.5 indicates a case of osteopaenia, where the bone mineral density is “lower than normal”, and can, in some cases, develop osteoporosis. Three months on, I am popping calcium pills prescribed by Dr Goh and keeping up with my walks.

FAST FACTS

GETTING THERE

Malaysia Airlines flies direct from Hongkong to Penang three times weekly, while budget carrier AirAsia operates four times weekly from Hongkong. From Singapore, SilkAir flies three times weekly while low-cost airline Jetstar operates two times daily.

ACCOMMODATION

There are quite a number of hotels and resorts located in the popular Batu Feringgi Beach area – ideal for those wanting to get away from it all. Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa (tel 60 4 888 8888) is sprawled over 12ha of lush greenery. Divided into two wings (Garden and Rasa), 304 guestrooms overlook either the sea or the hills.

Situated next door, Golden Sands Resort, also by Shangri-La, has refreshed its rooms and facilities. The property now has 387 guestrooms (previously 395), with six of them made into family combos. A brand-new Cool Lounge (the first of its kind in the Shangri-La Group) caters for early guest arrivals and late check out.

Malaysia’s first Hard Rock Hotel (tel 60 4 881 1711) opened in September, with 250 rooms and dining options including the poolside Pizzeria.

HEALTHCARE

Loh Guan Lye Specialists Centre; 265 beds. tel 60 4 238 8888