The throbbing heart of South Korea, Seoul pumps the national life-blood at a powerful pressure. High tech, high expense and high energy, it is one of the liveliest cities in Asia, and has much to offer the business traveller with some time to explore.
Physically, Seoul comprises steel-and-glass high-rise office block clusters and drabber processions of identical concrete apartment buildings, interspersed with chaotic tangles of houses and villas. All of this is threaded through with a grid of teeming boulevards, highways, overpasses and bridges.
Although architecturally uninspired, Seoul is topographically blessed – the city is watered by the broad Han River and overlooked by dramatic mountains to the north. It’s also big – Greater Seoul is the world’s third-largest urban conurbation, with half of Korea’s 50 million people. This makes a geography briefing essential.
Seoul is divided by the Han. North of that sits the CBD, Gwanghwamun, home to multinationals and embassies. Yeouido, an island in the river, hosts financial firms, broadcasters and the National Assembly, while Gangnam (literally, “South of the River”) is packed with tech firms, including the headquarters for Samsung and Hyundai-Kia.
Made famous by pop artist Psy’s hit song Gangnam Style, this area is largely of interest to fashionistas, shopaholics and clubbers. Seoul’s less frenetic, more natural attractions – its mountain spine, royal palaces, clutches of traditional homes and major markets – all lie north of the Han. Most of the key sights radiate out from the CBD and can be easily explored on foot. A visit to one of Seoul’s five medieval palaces – Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Unhyeongung, Changgyeonggung and Gyeongbokgung – is a must.
All offer gorgeous aesthetics, although continual restoration has diluted authenticity. The biggest and oldest is Gyeongbokgung, around which Seoul was originally sited; it still sits regally at the head of the photogenic Gwanghwamun Boulevard, and is back-dropped by Mount Bugaksan. Following the principles of feng shui, the presidential mansion, the Blue House, stands behind the palace (subways: Gyeongbokgung, Gwanghwamun or Anguk; palace open 9am-6pm Wed-Mon; royalpalace.go.kr).
Northward, the forested slopes of Mount Bugaksan are traversed by Bugak Skyway, an alpine highway. The mountaintop neighbourhood of Buam-Dong is a good place to stop for drinks or coffee, before enjoying a stroll through the medieval Changuimun fortress gate to find contour-hugging parks showcasing jaw-dropping city views. One drawback is you need a car. Ask your hotel concierge for help booking one.
North of Mount Bugaksan spreads the rugged Mount Bukhansan National Park, intersected by trails leading to ancient fortresses and hidden Buddhist temples. To hike here, set aside at least half a day.
Immediately west of Gyeongbokgung palace lies the attractive low-rise district of Seocheon, with alleys offering cosy pubs and restaurants. East of the palace is the districtof Samcheong-Dong (subway: Anguk), which is sprinkled with a selection of coffee shops, boutiques and wine bars. The area’s highest point is Bukchon Hanok, a pretty hub of restored traditional cottages.
South of here is Insadong (subway: Jonggak), a tourist hotspot selling Korean souvenirs including antiques, art, calligraphy sets (nice desk ornaments), jewellery and
neo-traditional fashion.
Diagonally across from Gyeongbokgung’s south gate stands the National Museum of Contemporary Korean History, which covers colonisation, the Korean War, the 1960s “economic miracle” and the 1980s struggle for democracy (subway: Gwanghwamun; open Tues-Sun 9am-6pm, Wed and Sat until 9pm; much.go.kr). Just under a kilometre southwest is Seoul History Museum, which tells the country’s story from its founding in 1392 to the present day (subway: Seodaemun; open Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun until 7pm; museum.seoul.kr).
Heading south from Gyeongbokgung down the broad Sejong-Daero road, you pass the Cheonggyecheon Stream to your left. This waterway winds for miles and is lined with bars and cafés, many with terraces, throughout the downtown area. Continuing along Sejong-Daero, City Hall is on the left – the colonial-era building is dwarfed by a giant glass sculpture of an overturning wave – and Deoksugung palace is on the right (subway: City Hall).
The alley beside the palace leads to Jeong-dong, a quiet neighbourhood noted for its early 20th-?century architecture. Sejong-Daero terminates at Namdaemun Gate, Seoul’s original southern entrance and the capital’s most iconic structure. Across from the castellated gate sprawls Namdaemun market. Dive into this chaotic, 24/7 labyrinth for food, fashion and household goods – bargain like hell.
Adjacent to the market – assuming you find your way out – is the shopping precinct of Myeong-Dong, with its huge department stores and international boutiques.
Not everything lies just beyond Gyeongbokgung’s gates; nightlife districts are a 15-minute taxi journey away. To the east is Hongdae, an alternative scene with eateries, bars and clubs, some offering live music (subway: Hongik University). Southwest is Itaewon, formerly Seoul’s foreign ghetto but now colonised by hipsters. The lively area offers foreign bars and restaurants, plus red lights and a gay scene (subway: Itaewon). Next to Itaewon is Gyeongnidan, a street of smaller foreign pubs and eateries, many specialising in craft beer (subway: Noksapyeong); and Hannam-Dong, largely an upmarket overspill. Both have late-night venues.
Alas, Seoul is so vast, you will barely scratch its surface. But given that it is Asia’s most happening city, the real “must do” is a return trip.
DINING AND DRINKING
For carnivores, South Korea offers Asia’s finest table. Its barbecue tradition dates back to 13th-century Mongol invasions and, today, every neighbourhood features a galbi jjim (rib house).
Here, you grill steak (deungshim), short ribs (galbi – marinated or unmarinated) or pork belly (samgyeopsal – the working man’s dinner) on a tabletop stove. The meat is eaten in lettuce wraps, dipped in fermented bean (doenjang) or red pepper paste (gochujang), and accompanied by an endless array of free side dishes including, naturally, kimchi.
These convivial “don’t-mind-your-manners” havens are so ubiquitous that it is unnecessary to recommend one in particular. Tipples include makgeolli, a milky white rice brew, and Korea’s national firewater soju, a grain spirit.
For a new take on galbi, try Hanwadam inHannam Dong. Here, your tabletop griddle is taken care of by wandering servers, the steak is top-class and fine wines and beers are available. Open daily 11.30am-11.30pm. Hannam Dong 75-1, Yongsan Gu; tel +82 2749 7905; no subway.
Jeong-Dong’s Congdu is set in an elegant hanok, or traditional Korean cottage. Its neo-traditional fare includes such delights as steak in vintage soy sauce, black garlic pureé and pine nut soup with soy milk latte. Open daily 11.30am-10pm. 116 Deoksugung-Gil, Jeong-Dong;
tel +82 2722 7002; subway: City Hall.
Seocheon’s Hopscotch (pictured top) serves upscale gastro-pub grub – brisket sandwiches, duck-fat frites, deep-fried pork – with local craft beers, Belgian ales and single malt whiskies. In a side alley in a tastefully renovated hanok, it has pleasantly contrasting Western-Korean and cool “olde worlde” vibes. Open 5pm-1am (12 noon-1am Sat, 1pm-11pm Sun). Tongui-dong 26, Jongno-Gu; tel +82 2722 0145; subway: Gyeongbokgung.
