Gigi Onag is reminded of Mother Nature's great showmanship in an unforgettable trip to the island of Langkawi.
One thing that strikes you on arriving in Langkawi is the stillness and the wide, open spaces. Tight muscles begin to uncoil just by watching the undulating green countryside whizzing by your car window on the way from the airport to your resort.
Two decades after being declared a duty-free port, Langkawi has trod the road to progress with its natural beauty and soul intact.
The main town of Kuah bears the marks of a thriving commercial and business district with its requisite strings of hotels and shopping malls, but the bustle is relatively low-key by modern city standards. A short drive to the outskirts reveals the rustic peacefulness that still permeates much of Langkawi’s 99-odd islands that lie on the northwestern tip of Malaysia.
Travellers on a quest for sun-kissed destinations can add to their itinerary this tiny archipelago, which enjoys a pleasant balmy weather with temperatures ranging between 24ºC and 33ºC all year round.
A random check with local residents reveals about 80 percent of the population is engaged in tourism-related jobs, so it is hardly surprising that islanders look at visitors with smiles and open faces. For the past seven years, Langkawi has seen a steady flow of tourists arriving on its shores – about two million annually. And yet, this group of islands is largely unspoiled.
“There are only 10 traffic lights in this entire island,” said the chauffeur of the hotel limo to my comment that there was hardly any vehicle – private or public – on either side of the road. A driver’s paradise, I thought.
While the majority of households in Langkawi owns a car, the low population density means visitors can traverse the whole of the main island from end-to-end in less than a day. The best way to get around is to hire a car and catch a glimpse of the people and their local culture, of abundant flora and fauna as the panoramic landscape of green trees and lush vegetation, sandy beaches and clear blue oceans roll by.
I arrived in Langkawi in mid-December, which was perfect for experiencing island life in the downtime just before the hectic tourist season that stretches from Christmas straight through Chinese New Year.
On my first full-day there, I was up bright and early to meet Wendy Chin, assistant naturalist at Four Seasons Langkawi, for the much-awaited mangrove tour of the Kilim Geoforest Park. The tour is well timed as Langkawi was declared last year the first Unesco geopark in Southeast Asia.
Kilim, together with the Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest and the Machincang Cambrian, is one of three geoforest parks in Langkawi.
Right on schedule at 9am, we took off on a boat cruise that cut across the length of the Tanjung Rhu coastline. A couple, Hogan and Petra, globetrotting nature photographers from Germany, joined us on this excursion. Both intermittently regaled us with stories about the myriad quaint species and creatures that they encountered in the wilds of Africa and South America.
We slowed down as we approached the mouth of the winding river trail, marking the entrance of the 100-square-metre Kilim nature park. Before us was the vast expanse of well-protected mangrove forests.
“The limestone rock formations all around this area have protected these mangrove forests from tsunamis,” Wendy said, adding that the series of caves nature carved out of these rocks was home to thousands of cave bats that feed on mosquitoes which would normally make their home in the mangroves.
You don’t really begin to appreciate nature until you see it up close. The mangrove forests of Kilim are unique for having thrived in one of the rarest of habitats – a salt-water river.
Breaking off one yellowed leaf from one of the trees, Wendy showed us the white substance that filmed its surface. “These trees have adapted to their environment by developing a filtration system that extracts salt from the water and come out as salt crystals on dying leaves, which turn yellow and fall into the river.”
The mangroves of Kilim are comprised of different species from walking mangroves, which appear as if they are standing on stilts, and snorkel root mangroves with roots that stick out of the mud to enable them to draw oxygen from the air. These trees take 30 years to mature and as part of Langkawi’s environment awareness campaign, tour participants are invited to plant a mangrove tree during their outing.
“You can see that these mangroves support a diverse and rich ecosystem,” said our enthusiastic guide who used to work at Langkawi’s Wilderness Center teaching outdoor education to local secondary students. She then proceeded to show us the different creatures that found nourishment and shelter among the mangroves
In the water, there were sea urchins and striped nose half-beaked fish. Feeding on nutrient-rich mud were fiddler crabs and mudskippers (fish that can live on land). On the trees, we caught sight of kingfishers and oriental magpie robins, as well as several families of white tailed macaques.
When we approached a wide clearing, we found ourselves in the company of other tourists craning their necks to watch white-belly sea eagles and Langkawi’s own mascot the Brahminy Kite as they flew overhead. Then we sailed onwards deep into the mangrove forests as the river flowed into narrow tributaries. There are plans to introduce kayaking here soon.
A must-stop in the tour was the hole in the wall fish farm of about 1,309ha to feed stingrays and a variety of marine life, including archerfish, stone oyster, elephant snail, garoupa and coral fish.
As we crossed the cave tunnel that led to the other end of Kilim Park, massive limestone rock formations rose to meet us, their summit glinting green with their prehistoric plants, which locals called “The Hanging Gardens”.
Mangrove tours are conducted twice a day – in the morning and in the afternoon. Travellers can join the tour at RM250 (US$79) per person for a minimum group of six passengers. An exclusive tour can also be booked at RM450 (US$142) per person.
With more than half the day gone, I headed straight out of the door fresh from a 90-minute spa treatment in one of Four Seasons’ luxurious spa pavilions. Resisting sleep, I hopped onto the car hire that ferried me to the island’s modern landmark, the Langkawi Cable Car.
It was nearing late afternoon when we pulled up at the Oriental Village where the attraction, which opened in 2002, was located. The sky was slightly downcast sprinkling the ground with mild summer showers. I made a beeline to the cable car counter and paid RM25 (US$8) for a single adult ticket for the 22-minute ride all the way up to Mount Mat Cincang, Langkawi’s second highest peak.
I went up the escalators that led up to the platform and stepped into the clear bubble-shaped cable car, feeling foolishly brave to attempt this 2.2km climb – on a 42º incline – on my own. Although the skies had cleared, a breeze began to rock my aerial basket, making me somewhat queasy. Fear was easily forgotten as the village became a tiny speck and the forest canopy appeared in all its majesty. I was able to locate Telaga Tujuh (also known as the Seven Wells) with its waterfalls. Just before the cable car reached the first viewing station, we came really close to a towering cliff face, which I later learned was called the “Matahari Face”.
I got off Station One and walked up the viewing platform. At over 700m above sea level, Mount Mat Cincang offers a 360-degree bird’s eye view of the whole island group, the Datai Peninsula including the Andaman Sea.
But then there was still several metres of mountain to climb, so I hopped onto the cable car again to reach Station Two which had a more spectacular view.
On the way down, I met a Langkawi Cable Car technician going off work, who said all 35 cable car units are well maintained and each of the six towers that connect the 2.2 km stretch undergo a thorough maintenance check. All good to know. Before calling it a day, I explored Oriental Village, walking along its well-tended gardens and browsing its stores for some duty-free shopping.
The Langkawi Cable car opens daily from 1000 to 1800, Monday to Thursday, and from 0930 to 1900, Friday to Sunday.
WHERE TO STAY
FOUR SEASONS LANGKAWI
Reminiscent of a traditional Malay village, all 91 generously sized pavilions and villas offer fabulous vistas of the Andaman Sea. At the heart of the resort is the Spa, which is housed in a collection of nine separate pavilions tucked away at the foot of the limestone cliff towering over the resort. Six of these pavilions are private spa bungalows, each including its own treatment room, open-air bathroom and meditation area.
PRICE: Standard rates from US$540 nightly.
CONTACT: Jalan Tanjung Rhu, 07000 Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia, tel 60 4 950 8888, www.fourseasons.com/langkawi
THE DATAI
Managed by GHM Hotels, The Datai’s modern hotel facilities, luxurious spa and 18-hole championship golf course complement the resort’s serene forested surroundings. This luxurious oasis is located on the northwestern tip of Langkawi and features 54 deluxe rooms, 40 villas and 18 suites nestled amid lush rainforests and a private stretch of sandy shore facing the breathtaking Andaman Sea.
PRICE: Internet rates from US$472 from May to October.
CONTACT: Jalan Teluk Datai, 07000 Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia, tel 60 4 959 2500, www.ghmhotels.com
REBAK ISLAND RESORT
An ideal private island getaway with 82 timbered villas and rooms that are set in clusters shaded by palm trees, as well as clumps of tamarind, coconut and local herbs to enhance the rustic ambience. The resort’s landscape allows most rooms a clear view of the Senari Straits.
PRICE: Room from US$254.
CONTACT: PO Box 125, 07007 Kuah, Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia, tel 60 4 966 5566, www.tajhotels.com
THE WESTIN LANGKAWI
Each of the 202 rooms and 20 villas features serene modern décor, exhilarating views and ample amenities. From cooling rain showers to the delights of its trademark Heavenly Bed, every detail is designed to enhance guests’ well-being and renewal. While the resort has its own nature attractions, the nearby harbour of Langkawi and the famous shopping of Kuah town offer their own unique appeal.
PRICE: Packages for two people from US$210, valid till December 19.
CONTACT: Jalan Pantai Dato Syed Omar, 07000 Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia, tel 60 4 960 8888, www.westin.com/langkawi
