Snow, ice and pristine, dazzling whiteness… you wouldn’t be blamed if the images that Hokkaido – the northernmost of Japan’s four main islands – instantly conjures are of an eternal winter. Well, get ready to banish that picture because tourism drumbeaters have, of late, been vigorously promoting the prefecture as a year-round playground.
As Japan’s final frontier, Hokkaido was first populated and eventually developed by migrants from other parts of the archipelago, who found that they shared the land with the aboriginal Ainu people. An amazing treasure trove of both natural and man-made wonders, Hokkaido is embraced by the relentless waves of the Pacific Ocean, Sea of Japan and Sea of Okhotsk, hewn by majestic mountain ranges, dotted with balmy wetlands and azure lakes, and carpeted by lush farming areas.
Amongst all this natural splendour are the modern charms of checkerboard towns and cities such as the island’s renowned capital, Sapporo, the ski hub of Asahikawa and flower-filled Furano in the central region, the pretty European-style port of Otaru on the west coast, and booming Niseko in southwest Hokkaido that’s fast becoming a magnet for international ski aficionados and savvy real-estate developers.
Hokkaido has much to offer and one season is certainly not enough to explore all its manifold attractions. To truly enjoy any destination, the best – and only – solution is to return again and again, trying something different each time. Below is a raft of activities, mostly around northern and central Hokkaido, much of which Business Traveller experienced during a trip organised by Thai Airways, which launched a direct flight between Bangkok and Sapporo last October.
While several of the tours and options are best done at specific times of the year, some can still be enjoyed no matter what the weather. It really depends on the visitor’s pleasure or time constraints.
SUMMER
Only 30 minutes from New Chitose Airport, Northern Horse Park (www.northern-horsepark.co.jp) is a picturesque 50-hectare spread, and a good introduction to a non-snowy Hokkaido. It offers a generous buffet lunch, showcasing tasty local produce like the wagyu beef and fresh vegetables. Meals are taken in a light-filled hall, looking out to manicured gardens with a babbling brook.
Capitalising on the surrounding forest, which creates a bracing atmosphere, most of the offered activities are of the outdoor type and impressively diverse, including horse-drawn carriage rides, horseback riding for both experienced and novice riders, biking, tennis, archery, laser shooting and golf, to name a few.
Journeying into the island’s centre, it’s time to soar above the ski fields of Furano – which turn emerald green during the months of June, July and August – in the Furano Ropeway cable car (www.furano-kankou.com) to a mountain peak where a panoramic view of Furano City awaits. The ride normally costs ¥1,800 (US$23), but during summer, international tourists just need to show their passports to get a round-trip freebie.
No journey around the countryside would be complete without sampling Hokkaido’s famous Yubari melons and viewing the flower fields. At Farm Okudaira, groups can enjoy an “all-the-melons-you-can-eat” experience in a warehouse, the prized fruits deftly sliced by the chatty owner-farmer, Okudaira himself, who also accompanies the group on a walk through the melon beds. Farm Tomita (www.farm-tomita.co.jp) provides the quintessential photo op with rows of lavender, poppies, French marigolds and other blooms growing side by side on gently rolling hills, creating a spectacular “rainbow” effect; there’s also an interesting souvenir shop stocked with lavender-themed products.
Flowerland Kamifurano (www.flower-land.co.jp) offers quickie craft classes such as making potpourri pillows and pressed-flower postcards, followed by a fun tractor ride around the farm. Ever seen an alpaca – normally a resident of the Andes? You can see a large flock at Beie Shikisai-no-Oka (www.shikisainooka.jp), which features a special enclosure where these long-necked beasts are seen perennially masticating sweet hay.
Between late July and mid-August, the entire city of Sapporo turns into a beer mecca, but downtown Odori Park boasts the most congenial atmosphere – all six blocks of it. Seeing the usually formal Japanese let down their hair for once is a photo op not to be missed. Munch on grilled or boiled corn sold from numerous street vendors and costing around ¥300 (US$3.64).
Hokkaido’s excellent dairy products find full expression in parfaits of all kinds and heights, served in Sapporo ice-cream parlours such as one of the downtown outlets of the Snowbrand Milk Products company. Big groups will have fun ordering the icy extravaganza that comes in the form of a layered cake and costs ¥12,600 (US$123), consisting of a variety of scoops and fresh fruit.
AUTUMN
Eager to experience the adrenaline rush of Olympic ski jumpers before the big lunge forward? It’s possible from the viewing point at the Okurayama Ski Jump (http://okura.sapporo-dc.co.jp), one of the venues of the 1972 Winter Olympics that garnered Japan a grand slam of gold, silver and bronze in the 90-metre ski jump competition. By special arrangement, a visiting group can be shown and pose for pictures at the actual point where the daredevil athletes launch themselves into mid-air before expertly plummeting to the ground below. To reach the ramp’s highest portion, visitors take a gentle, five-minute lift ride – two people per car – that helps build up the thrills. The Sapporo Winter Sports Museum in the same complex exhibits memorabilia from the historic Winter Games and is equipped with a number of virtual winter sports simulation scenarios. The entire attraction can be rented out to large incentive travel delegations for the entire day.
Like something out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale, Ningle Terrace (www.furano-kankou.com) in the Furano area is a community of artisans fashioning their exquisite handicrafts in the middle of a verdant forest. From snowflake Christmas ornaments to scented candles to carvings of that beloved Japanese icon the fox, you will want to buy up everything you see. As a courtesy, ask the owner-artist first before taking any pictures.
Sapporo Central Wholesale Market or Kitanogurume (www.kitanogurume.co.jp) carries the freshest catch from Hokkaido’s oceans. Salmon is autumn’s bounty, while the king crab and its relatives, hairy crabs and snow crabs, are netted in Funka Bay and appear in abundance in the display tanks. There is a restaurant on the second floor, accommodating about 100 diners. On the menu are sashimi bowl combinations, and those who avoid raw items can request to have their orders grilled.
WINTER
In Asahikawa City, a smooth two-hour drive from Sapporo, the Asahikawa Takasago Sake Brewery (www.asahikawa-grand.com) has been producing Japan’s national drink for the past 113 years. Unlike newer establishments that use technology’s help to operate year-round, this company, according to a spokesperson, prefers to follow the traditional method of manufacturing sake during the winter months from November to March. He stresses that Hokkaido’s natural cold climate during the winter season ferments the product, making it “more delicious”. The highlight of the visit – the tasting – occurs in a shop area that is the site of the original factory.
Hot-air ballooning over a snow-white landscape
The Asahiyama Zoo in Asahikawa City has an annual winter tradition – taking its king penguins on a 500-metre, 30-minute walk to keep them from gaining weight and to maintain healthy blood sugar levels during the cold months. The exercise routine is done twice daily and runs from December to the spring season, the first session at 11am and the second at 2.30pm. Needless to say, the march of these majestic birds sends visitors on a furious picture-snapping spree.
SPRING
Get acquainted with Hokkaido’s first settlers, the Ainu people. At the lakeside Shiraoi Porotokotan Ainu Museum (www.ainu-museum.or.jp), which replicates an Ainu village, a short but stirring cultural presentation is played out in a tiny atmospheric theatre underneath rows of dried tuna hanging from the rafters – as found in old homesteads. The performers make it very clear that while they take pride in their unique culture and vividly printed traditional wear, they also “live like you in regular apartments and have normal lives”.
Roadside cherry blossoms
Forty minutes by car from Sapporo, Otaru City and its landmark canal offers a European-style backdrop for great photos, as well as a chance to purchase unusual arts and crafts items, especially glassware – a legacy of the time when glass buoys for the fishing industry were produced here. Now, it features scores of workshops and galleries turning out exquisite home and lifestyle pieces, as well as boutique patisseries. Step into the Hakata Music Box Museum (www.otaru-orgel.co.jp) to admire over 15,000 collectibles. If time permits, learn how to make your own music box, a perfect memento of the day’s outing.
Shiroi Koibito Park (www.shiroikoibitopark.jp), near Sapporo, is Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory, Japanese style. The renowned confectionary and biscuit maker combines a factory tour with heaps of entertaining exhibits, including the Chocolate Cup Collection, Gramophone Gallery, Chocolate Packaging Labels Collection and Classical Toys Collection from the Meiji, Taisho and Showa periods (1868-1989). Classes are also offered in a special studio where visitors are taught to design their own heart-shaped Shiroi Koibito cookies.
YEAR-ROUND
All the ramen you can eat can be slurped up at Ramen Yokocho (ramen alley) in Sapporo’s Susukino neighbourhood. The difficulty comes in choosing which of the 17 shops – each of which boast their own signature items – to finally settle on.
Feast on lamb (or other kinds of meat) and down huge jugs of beer at the Sapporo Beer Garden (www.sapporo-bier-garten.jp), next to a 19th century brick chimney that in the old days spewed smoke from the brewing operations below. Now, it’s an evocative reminder of the pioneering days of the region’s agricultural and dairy industry. There are different dining areas in the building, including the main Genghis Khan Hall, dominated by an enormous vintage copper beer vat.
It may take 10 years to produce a sushi or sashimi specialist, but just for the fun of it, visitors can make their own (albeit somewhat slapdash) nibbles before they lunch on them. The quickie classes can be arranged in several restaurants in Otaru’s sushiyadori (sushi street) under the patient guidance of a master chef. The results, no matter how they come out, are usually consumed with much gusto and laughter.
Chitose Outlet Mall Rera (www.outlet-rera.com) is a convenient last stop before flying out of Hokkaido. Just 10 minutes from Chitose International Airport, this complex of 90 shops offers branded items at very reasonable prices. The only catch is the brands are mostly Japanese, but there are a few international labels, including Gap, Coach and Brooks Brothers. However, it’s still worth a browse.
