Earning the title of European Capital of Culture 2010 promises lasting change for the Turkish city, says Jenny Southan
Through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Istanbul Modern art gallery there is a shimmering stretch of ultramarine water, the Bosphorus, which joins an inlet known as the Golden Horn before flowing into the Sea of Marmara. The strait is traversed by powerboats and ships, and beyond is the hazy horizon of the city’s Asian shores on one side and the mosques of the old European city on the other.
Here, the “New Works, New Horizons” exhibition provides an excellent illustration of the Turkish city’s position today. As one of three European Capitals of Culture this year – the others being Pecs in Hungary and Essen in Germany – it is investing heavily in promoting the arts, with a rich tapestry of about 600 events held throughout 2010. You only have to take in a few of the works at the gallery to get a sense of how the city has developed, from its Eastern and Western influences and unique cultural identity to the historical evolution documented by the myriad paintings, installations and sculptures.
The choice of Istanbul as a Capital of Culture surprised some, given it is not yet a member of the European Union. So how did it qualify? A representative for the European Commission, the body responsible for making the selections since the competition’s inception 25 years ago, says: “It was chosen under a different legal base, which allowed cities from third [non-EU] countries to hold the title. This year is the last occasion when this is possible. The possibility for third countries to hold the title was stopped as the European Union progressively became much larger.”
Those who are familiar with the city won’t doubt it is a worthy title-holder, given its illustrious past, cosmopolitan cuisine and diverse architectural styles. Still, these factors don’t in fact influence the decision-making process. The EC representative says: “The things that aren’t looked at are the city’s history and its beauty – they are things that can be used to its advantage but it’s more about the programme of cultural activities that it proposes. It’s really ambitious because it lasts for the whole year.”
Instead, two main criteria are considered – the “European” dimension and the “city and citizens” side. “When we talk about the European dimension there are three aspects – highlighting the richness of cultural diversity in Europe, bringing the common aspects of European culture to the fore, and co-operation between cultural operators and artists from different countries,” the EC representative explains. “One of the aims is to help Europeans understand each other better through cultural activities.
“The ‘city and citizens’ criterion, meanwhile, looks at programmes that foster the participation of people living in the city, and at ways to make the projects sustainable and integral parts of its cultural and social development. The panel will look for a bid that has long-term effects beyond the year itself.”
The title may even help the city in its EU bid. A spokesperson for the Istanbul 2010 European Capital of Culture Agency says: “As Turkey moves ahead with the process of its candidacy for the European Union, the projects will demonstrate that Istanbul, the symbol of the country, has been interacting with European culture for hundreds of years. The city’s cultural heritage will be managed in a sustainable manner and it will become even more of a magnet. Istanbul will achieve lasting gains in the fields of urban renewal, urban living and environmental and social development.”
Take to the streets and you will see examples of this investment well under way. Perched on a hilltop in Sultanahmet, the Hagia Sophia – originally a Byzantine church, then an Ottoman mosque, and now a museum – is being renovated, as are the surrounding old city walls and nearby Topkapi Palace. But efforts are also focused on constructing new venues. “It’s not one of the requirements for the title but a lot of cities invest in revamping or rebuilding cultural infrastructure, so that means it can act as a catalyst, leaving behind venues that can be used afterwards,” the EC representative says.
Last year, the 73,000 sqm Sutluce Cultural and Congress Centre opened in a converted slaughterhouse on the Golden Horn, while the Young Art and Design Centre opened in 2008. Forthcoming facilities include the Ayazaga Culture Centre – the largest of its kind in the country, with capacity for almost 4,000 people across two halls (opening this year) – and the Istanbul Library in the 250-year-old Rami Military Barracks (opening date yet to be announced).
The Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts, a non-governmental organisation responsible for arranging the Istanbul Biennial and other music and art festivals, moved to the 90-year-old Deniz Palas in Sishane in January following a US$14 million renovation. It has a top-class restaurant on the roof and a performance hall. The Ataturk Cultural Centre on Taksim Square also offers newly revamped facilities.
Harun Dursun, general manager of the Park Hyatt Istanbul – Macka Palas, which opened in November 2008, has noticed the city has had a spruce-up. “It is much cleaner this year and the roads have been redone,” he says. “[The authorities] have been making the city more beautiful by planting more flowers, introducing more recycling bins and encouraging people to be more environmentally friendly.”
But apart from the cosmetic, does the title really have an impact? The Istanbul 2010 agency spokesperson thinks so: “The improvement to the urban infrastructure and quality of service will help to establish Istanbul as a major destination for culture tourism. We believe everybody coming here gets different tastes, pleasures and experiences from the city.”
According to the EC, the designation leads to tourism growth of 12 to 15 per cent on average, but in some cases much more. Its representative says: “The impact on the local economy can be much broader because tourists are not just going to the cultural events but to restaurants and shops. It can leave [a legacy] in terms of cultural venues and hotel capacity, as well as all sorts of new skills because people suddenly have to work in a much more international way, and that can open up prospects for co-operation in the future. I think a lot of cities use the title to make themselves a more attractive place to work, live and invest in.” New hotels to look out for include the “seven-star” 77-room Marriott Edition, due to open in December, and a 200-room Shangri-La near Dolmabahce Palace in 2012.
The Ciragan Palace Kempinski hotel, on the waterfront Ciragan Caddesi, has been playing host to a number of events. Coming in September is “Tales of Future”, a series of multimedia concerts incorporating robots “aimed at establishing a metaphor between the acoustic potential of the Bosphorus and local percussion instruments”. Lara Otru, the hotel’s marketing manager, says: “The city is like a mosaic – it has so much to offer and discover. This year is a great opportunity for Istanbul to position itself better on the international stage and attract people from overseas. We have seen demand for rooms increase since last year.”
Next door, at the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, PR manager Sibel Benli is similarly positive. “Most of the time business travellers don’t have time to enjoy the city but if they do maybe they will discover a new angle to it. And you know what? Most of them fall in love with it and then return for a holiday.”
So how can time-pressed business travellers make the most of a trip? Dursun at the Park Hyatt says: "It depends on which side you will be based. Most of the five-star hotels are on the European side and during rush hour traffic can get really hectic. If you have some free time the first thing you should see is the old city – the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace and Basilica Cistern. About 90 per cent of [the events] can be booked online but in some cases you need to go and buy the ticket – we offer that service to our guests."
If you are looking for somewhere to eat you will be spoilt for choice – be it a spread of tasty meze dishes under the Galata Bridge, where you’ll see dozens of men passing the day fishing, or at super-trendy alfresco hangouts such as 360 Istanbul (360istanbul.com), a rooftop bar, club and restaurant near Taksim Square. There is also a developing trend for fine dining – Topaz (topazistanbul.com), near Taksim Park, offers Mediterranean and Ottoman dishes made from carefully sourced local ingredients, with Bosphorus views.
For those who might not fit in a trip this year, rest assured that there will be plenty to occupy you next time you go. Selim Ozcan, PR co-ordinator at the Ciragan Palace Kempinski, says: “It is not like the World Cup where at the end of the tournament it’s finished. Istanbul as a Capital of Culture will not end on December 31 – it will just be starting.”
Visit istanbul2010.com
GETTING AROUND
BA and Turkish Airlines fly from London Heathrow to Ataturk airport, which is on the city’s European side and is about 25km from the city centre (about TL 30/£13 in a taxi). Easyjet serves Sabiha Gokcen airport on the Asian side from Gatwick and Luton, while Pegasus Airlines and Turkish Airlines fly there from Stansted. It is about 50km from the centre and a taxi costs roughly TL 70 (£30).
Bear in mind that traffic can be very slow at peak times and some taxi drivers may attempt to overcharge foreigners. Ask your hotel for an estimate of the journey’s cost and negotiate the fare before you get in. In 2012, the Marmaray underwater tunnel connecting the metro lines of the East and West will open, providing another option.
Istanbul 2010: UPCOMING EVENTS
JULY
? 5-10: Second Istanbul International Ballet Competition at the Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall
? 2-23: First International Istanbul Opera Festival at Yildiz Palace, Topkapi Palace, Rumelian Castle and Cemil Topuzlu Open-Air Theatre
? 25: Adalar Prince Islands Museum opening, Buyukada
? 18-28: “Promethiade” performances at Rumeli Fortress
AUGUST
? 11-21: Royal Spectacle at Sultanahmet Square
? Until Aug 15: “Ab-i Hayat Waters of Istanbul and Aquatic Culture” exhibition at the Turkish and Islamic Art Museum in Sultanahmet
? 24-Sept 24: “Istanbul: The City of Contrasts” exhibition at Istanbul Modern
? 25-28: Istanbul Fashion Week at ITU Taskisla Campus
? 28-Sept 12: FIBA World Basketball Championship, Abdi Ipekci Sports Hall
SEPTEMBER
? 5-Nov 24: “99 Qur’ans” exhibition at the SSM Museum
? 6: U2’s 360° tour due to come to Istanbul Ataturk Olympic Stadium
? 15: “Two Ancient Sounds of Istanbul: Ney and Tanbur” concert at Galata Mevlevi Lodge
? 20: “Tales of Future” multimedia concerts at Ciragan Palace Kempinski hotel
? 21: “Music of Istanbul’s Architecture” at the Topkapi Palace Babussaade
? Until Nov: “From Byzantium to Istanbul” exhibition at Sabanci University’s Sakip Sabanci Museum
? Date TBA: the Museum of Innocence opening, Cukurcuma
OCTOBER
? 1-28: “Istanbul the Centre of Multilingual Communications” exhibition at the Journalists Association of Turkey Press Museum
? 21: Turvak Cinema Museum opening, Tuvak Museum Galatasaray
? 22-25: FISA World Rowing Coastal Championship, Sea of Marmara
? 26-Dec 26: “Traditional Turkish Book Arts – Modern Masters” exhibition at the Tuyap Fair, Convention and Congress Centre
NOVEMBER
? 20-Dec 19: “History and Destruction in Istanbul/Ghost Building” at Taksim Republican Art Gallery
? 26-Dec 17: Golden Routes World Music Festival
DECEMBER
? 1: Masters of Istanbul Documentaries, Altas Cinema – ten 25-minute films on master craftsmen working in the city
? Throughout the month: “Photography Parade” at the Fototrek Photography Centre
? 19: “Istanbul and Harp” concert at the CRR Concert Hall
? Throughout the month: Portable Art in Taksim
? Completion of restoration of the Royal Carriages collection at Topkapi Palace museum
