Xian, the capital of Shaanxi province in north-central China, is probably most famous for the Terracotta Army. This thousand-strong horde of sculptures dates back to the 3rd century BC and was created as burial items for the first emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang. The city was the ancient seat of government for four Chinese dynasties, including the Han and Tang, both of which ruled for much longer than the Qin and are regarded by historians as defining modern Chinese culture.
The city has many well-preserved historic sites, including the most complete ancient city wall in China, but it has also made remarkable headway in modernisation and economic development. Most recently, it beat Chongqing and Beijing in winning a US$7 billion Samsung project,the South Korean conglomerate’s largest single overseas investment. Xian Aircraft Industrial Corporation, based in Yanliang District, serves the country’s military as well as producing aircraft components for Boeing and, since 2009, Airbus. Xian is also a leading producer of textiles, chemical products, pharmaceuticals and building materials.
Today, the sub-provincial city boasts nine districts and four counties, with a total area of 10,108sq km, and a population of over 8.47 million. The urban area covers 826sq km, with the old city taking up about a quarter of it.
The airport
Xi’an Xianyang International Airport opened its new Terminal 3 on May 3 this year, upping its total area to 45,000 sqm and capacity to 123 slots. China Eastern, Shanghai Airlines, China United Airlines and China Southern will be among the first to use this new facility. All airlines serving this airport except Korean Air and Asiana are operators from Greater China, including Hong Kong and Taiwan. We flew Dragonair and used Terminal 2, which is a little dated. It’s not a big airport, but it’s functional and we had little problem with immigration and customs on arrival.
Departure was more painful as there is very little to do while you’re waiting for your flight – a token duty-free shop, a VIP lounge that was not even operating when we were there, and a phone-charging kiosk that did not have an iPhone jack. There is one cafÈ that served overpriced food and coffee (RMB68/US$11 for a cold lattÈ), although some of the Chinese tea choices offer much better value (from RMB26/US$4.20).
Orientation
Inside the ancient city wall, there are many well-preserved historic sites such as the Bell Tower and Drum Tower, built in the 1380s. Although much of the city, like others in the country, has been modernised, there are still a number of old neighbourhoods with houses built during the Ming Dynasty and many have been converted into hostels, shops and cafÈs.
The walled city, at about 12 sq km, is only a small part of what makes up urban Xian today. Much of the modern development has happened outside the moat. Traffic can sometimes be a little chaotic, especially inside the wall as the road system was not designed with today’s vehicles in mind. Something as simple as crossing the street can be a challenge.
The first metro line, running from north to south, opened in September last year. The northernmost station connects to the high-speed rail. If all goes well, there will be three lines by 2016, with more being planned. But at this point, the system’s reach is limited and taxis are still the best bet to navigate the city.
Where to stay
Hilton Xi’an
Located in the centre of the old city of Xian, this property of more than 300 rooms combines contemporary design and modern amenities such as 42-inch televisions, marble bathrooms and high-speed wifi with Tang Dynasty motifs throughout the interior. Although the location is in the middle of town, there is a real sense of peacefulness, especially as the hallways all look inward to the patio. There are many outlets to enjoy Chinese ways of dining, starting with a pot of Chinese tea and light snacks at the T Lounge, Huaiyang and Shaanxi specialities in the China Club, and Cantonese delicacies at Red. International dishes are served at the buffet in CafÈ Xi’an, alongside premium beers and wines. All facilities expected of a five-star hotel are available, including a fitness centre, swimming pool and spa, as well as a 24-hour business centre, executive lounge, and 2,400 sqm of flexible event space.
www3.hilton.com
Shangri-La Xian
Located in Goa Xin Hi-tech Development Zone southwest of the walled city, this hotel offers 390 rooms and suites characterised by wall-to-ceiling windows and views of the city or the landscaped garden, which is an ideal venue for functions. In fact, German chancellor Angela Merkel had one of her birthday parties here. From the impressive imperial-style main entrance, one enters a world that is immediately recognisable as Shangri-La, with a lot of wood, marble columns, floral carpeting as well as tall paintings. All the luxury trimmings can be expected, including 24-hour butler service and the Horizon Club offerings. On the food and beverage front, there is the Lobby Lounge, Yi CafÈ for international cuisine, Tian Xiang Ge for Cantonese and Shaanxi dishes, as well as Siam Garden, a Thai restaurant featuring a delightful outdoor area that feels like it could be a resort in Phuket.
www.shangri-la.com
Sofitel Xian
Located on Renmin Square in the heart of the walled city, this hotel is part of a complex that was once reserved exclusively for government officials and dignitaries. Other than Sofitel, which is five star, the premises also includes a three-star Mercure and four-star Grand Mercure. Soon, the People’s Hotel, built in 1957 in a mix of Chinese and European architectural styles, will be fully renovated and reopened as a super-luxury option. All of these properties share a green garden, and there is also a classical theatre where shows sometimes take place. This Sofitel has 414 rooms, suites and apartments equipped with modern conveniences. For food and beverage, there is Azur for Mediterranean and European cuisine, Le Chinoise for Chinese, Japanese restaurant Koi, 24-hour Mediterranean All Day Dining as well as three drinking places – Bar Bambu, Habana, and the Lobby Lounge and Cigar Bar.
www.sofitel.com
The Westin, Xian
Located in Qujiang New District to the south of the city walls, which is an area of both industrial and technology developments as well as tourism for its many historic sites, this hotel feels different from its competitors. One reason for this is its proximity to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which means it is restricted by law in terms of height. As a result, the property only has four floors above ground, and develops horizontally rather than vertically. There are also basement levels where the restaurants are located, as well as the property’s own museum featuring the owner’s art collection. In fact, the hotel’s design, which features atriums and allows a lot of natural light, feels more like that of a modern art museum. There are 329 rooms featuring all of Westin’s signature amenities such as the Heavenly Bed, as well as dining options Mai (Japanese), Seasonal Tastes (international), Zen5es (Cantonese), as well as patisserie Daily Treats and a Lobby Lounge that looks like it could be a trendy hangout in Manhattan.
www.starwoodhotels.com/westin
Where to eat and shop
Beiyuanmen, located north of the Drum Tower, is commonly known as the Muslim quarter. It features many street stalls and small restaurants serving specialities such as gosh nun, a round pie with a meat filling, mostly mutton. There are also noodles, dumplings and the ubiquitous lamb skewers, or shashliks. You should be able to get a decent amount of food for around US$5, although complaints of tourist rip-offs are also common online, so exercise your usual vigilance.
If you want to enjoy the local cuisine without having to battle the language barrier, most hotels in the city feature Chinese outlets that serve both Cantonese and local Shaanxi dishes. One such place that is worth a special trip is Shang Palace at Golden Flower Xian by Shangri-La. This property was the first five-star hotel to open in the city in the 1980s, and has since become a landmark. Locally born sous chef Zhang Nan brings his home cooking to the table, and one of the must-try dishes is Shaanxi liang pi (thick noodles) with chilli sesame sauce – provided that you can take spicy food.
The streets around Shuyuan Gate, near the South Gate, feature many shops selling souvenirs such as calligraphy stationery and replicas of Terracotta Army warriors in various sizes and materials. A set of two clay soldiers (around 30cm tall) with a horse can be bought for around US$10.
What to do
If you’re in town for the first time, you must visit the Terracotta Army (www.bmy.com.cn). The site is actually rather far from town – at least 30 to 45 minutes by car. The easiest way is to book a tour through your hotel, but if you are adventurous, for about US$1, bus 306 from the parking lot east of the Xian’s main train station takes you there. The admission fee is RMB120 (US$19) to RMB150 (US$24) depending on the season. Opening hours are 8.30am to 5pm.
Qujiang New District (www.qujiang.com.cn), where the Westin is located, used to be a large garden complex in the Tang Chang’an City, encompassing Furong Park (an imperial garden) and a lagoon. For three centuries in the Tang Dynasty, it was where the literati gathered to discuss ideas. One of the centrepieces here is the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which is today open to the public.
A street with Tang-style structures, alongside water fountains, has been built in front of this historic site. Also in this area is Tang Paradise, a theme park built out of what remains of Furong Park and featuring computerised fire and water shows as well as dining and retail options.
For a dramatic view into one of China’s most powerful dynasties, The Tang Dynasty Show (www.tangyuegong.com), created in 1988, remains popular. Held in a big concert hall, the performance can be enjoyed alone or with a pre-show dinner included, served from 6.50pm to 8.10pm, before the curtain rises at 8.30pm. Menus start from RMB350 (US$55) per person. Dialogue is in Chinese, but the visual feast of costumes alone makes it worthwhile.
Where to unwind
You might be surprised to learn that many residents in this ancient Chinese capital have a very Western way of enjoying the night: sitting outdoors with a few drinks. Right near the wall’s South Gate (Nan Men), on Shun Cheng Nan Lu, a row of venues offer a bar scene that is decidedly contemporary, except you are having your beer with an atmospheric view of the fortification. The Belgian Bar (http://belgian-bar-xian.com), is popular among the city’s expatriates, possibly because of the owner’s Australian background.
Reggie Ho
The airport
Xi’an Xianyang International Airport opened its new Terminal 3 on May 3 this year, upping its total area to 45,000 sqm and capacity to 123 slots. China Eastern, Shanghai Airlines, China United Airlines and China Southern will be among the first to use this new facility. All airlines serving this airport except Korean Air and Asiana are operators from Greater China, including Hong Kong and Taiwan. We flew Dragonair and used Terminal 2, which is a little dated. It’s not a big airport, but it’s functional and we had little problem with immigration and customs on arrival.
Departure was more painful as there is very little to do while you’re waiting for your flight – a token duty-free shop, a VIP lounge that was not even operating when we were there, and a phone-charging kiosk that did not have an iPhone jack. There is one cafÈ that served overpriced food and coffee (RMB68/US$11 for a cold lattÈ), although some of the Chinese tea choices offer much better value (from RMB26/US$4.20).
Orientation
Inside the ancient city wall, there are many well-preserved historic sites such as the Bell Tower and Drum Tower, built in the 1380s. Although much of the city, like others in the country, has been modernised, there are still a number of old neighbourhoods with houses built during the Ming Dynasty and many have been converted into hostels, shops and cafÈs.
The walled city, at about 12 sq km, is only a small part of what makes up urban Xian today. Much of the modern development has happened outside the moat. Traffic can sometimes be a little chaotic, especially inside the wall as the road system was not designed with today’s vehicles in mind. Something as simple as crossing the street can be a challenge.
The first metro line, running from north to south, opened in September last year. The northernmost station connects to the high-speed rail. If all goes well, there will be three lines by 2016, with more being planned. But at this point, the system’s reach is limited and taxis are still the best bet to navigate the city.
Where to stay
Hilton Xi’an
Located in the centre of the old city of Xian, this property of more than 300 rooms combines contemporary design and modern amenities such as 42-inch televisions, marble bathrooms and high-speed wifi with Tang Dynasty motifs throughout the interior. Although the location is in the middle of town, there is a real sense of peacefulness, especially as the hallways all look inward to the patio. There are many outlets to enjoy Chinese ways of dining, starting with a pot of Chinese tea and light snacks at the T Lounge, Huaiyang and Shaanxi specialities in the China Club, and Cantonese delicacies at Red. International dishes are served at the buffet in CafÈ Xi’an, alongside premium beers and wines. All facilities expected of a five-star hotel are available, including a fitness centre, swimming pool and spa, as well as a 24-hour business centre, executive lounge, and 2,400 sqm of flexible event space.
www3.hilton.com
Shangri-La Xian
Located in Goa Xin Hi-tech Development Zone southwest of the walled city, this hotel offers 390 rooms and suites characterised by wall-to-ceiling windows and views of the city or the landscaped garden, which is an ideal venue for functions. In fact, German chancellor Angela Merkel had one of her birthday parties here. From the impressive imperial-style main entrance, one enters a world that is immediately recognisable as Shangri-La, with a lot of wood, marble columns, floral carpeting as well as tall paintings. All the luxury trimmings can be expected, including 24-hour butler service and the Horizon Club offerings. On the food and beverage front, there is the Lobby Lounge, Yi CafÈ for international cuisine, Tian Xiang Ge for Cantonese and Shaanxi dishes, as well as Siam Garden, a Thai restaurant featuring a delightful outdoor area that feels like it could be a resort in Phuket.
www.shangri-la.com
Sofitel Xian
Located on Renmin Square in the heart of the walled city, this hotel is part of a complex that was once reserved exclusively for government officials and dignitaries. Other than Sofitel, which is five star, the premises also includes a three-star Mercure and four-star Grand Mercure. Soon, the People’s Hotel, built in 1957 in a mix of Chinese and European architectural styles, will be fully renovated and reopened as a super-luxury option. All of these properties share a green garden, and there is also a classical theatre where shows sometimes take place. This Sofitel has 414 rooms, suites and apartments equipped with modern conveniences. For food and beverage, there is Azur for Mediterranean and European cuisine, Le Chinoise for Chinese, Japanese restaurant Koi, 24-hour Mediterranean All Day Dining as well as three drinking places – Bar Bambu, Habana, and the Lobby Lounge and Cigar Bar.
www.sofitel.com
The Westin, Xian
Located in Qujiang New District to the south of the city walls, which is an area of both industrial and technology developments as well as tourism for its many historic sites, this hotel feels different from its competitors. One reason for this is its proximity to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which means it is restricted by law in terms of height. As a result, the property only has four floors above ground, and develops horizontally rather than vertically. There are also basement levels where the restaurants are located, as well as the property’s own museum featuring the owner’s art collection. In fact, the hotel’s design, which features atriums and allows a lot of natural light, feels more like that of a modern art museum. There are 329 rooms featuring all of Westin’s signature amenities such as the Heavenly Bed, as well as dining options Mai (Japanese), Seasonal Tastes (international), Zen5es (Cantonese), as well as patisserie Daily Treats and a Lobby Lounge that looks like it could be a trendy hangout in Manhattan.
www.starwoodhotels.com/westin
Where to eat and shop
Beiyuanmen, located north of the Drum Tower, is commonly known as the Muslim quarter. It features many street stalls and small restaurants serving specialities such as gosh nun, a round pie with a meat filling, mostly mutton. There are also noodles, dumplings and the ubiquitous lamb skewers, or shashliks. You should be able to get a decent amount of food for around US$5, although complaints of tourist rip-offs are also common online, so exercise your usual vigilance.
If you want to enjoy the local cuisine without having to battle the language barrier, most hotels in the city feature Chinese outlets that serve both Cantonese and local Shaanxi dishes. One such place that is worth a special trip is Shang Palace at Golden Flower Xian by Shangri-La. This property was the first five-star hotel to open in the city in the 1980s, and has since become a landmark. Locally born sous chef Zhang Nan brings his home cooking to the table, and one of the must-try dishes is Shaanxi liang pi (thick noodles) with chilli sesame sauce – provided that you can take spicy food.
The streets around Shuyuan Gate, near the South Gate, feature many shops selling souvenirs such as calligraphy stationery and replicas of Terracotta Army warriors in various sizes and materials. A set of two clay soldiers (around 30cm tall) with a horse can be bought for around US$10.
What to do
If you’re in town for the first time, you must visit the Terracotta Army (www.bmy.com.cn). The site is actually rather far from town – at least 30 to 45 minutes by car. The easiest way is to book a tour through your hotel, but if you are adventurous, for about US$1, bus 306 from the parking lot east of the Xian’s main train station takes you there. The admission fee is RMB120 (US$19) to RMB150 (US$24) depending on the season. Opening hours are 8.30am to 5pm.
Qujiang New District (www.qujiang.com.cn), where the Westin is located, used to be a large garden complex in the Tang Chang’an City, encompassing Furong Park (an imperial garden) and a lagoon. For three centuries in the Tang Dynasty, it was where the literati gathered to discuss ideas. One of the centrepieces here is the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which is today open to the public.
A street with Tang-style structures, alongside water fountains, has been built in front of this historic site. Also in this area is Tang Paradise, a theme park built out of what remains of Furong Park and featuring computerised fire and water shows as well as dining and retail options.
For a dramatic view into one of China’s most powerful dynasties, The Tang Dynasty Show (www.tangyuegong.com), created in 1988, remains popular. Held in a big concert hall, the performance can be enjoyed alone or with a pre-show dinner included, served from 6.50pm to 8.10pm, before the curtain rises at 8.30pm. Menus start from RMB350 (US$55) per person. Dialogue is in Chinese, but the visual feast of costumes alone makes it worthwhile.
Where to unwind
You might be surprised to learn that many residents in this ancient Chinese capital have a very Western way of enjoying the night: sitting outdoors with a few drinks. Right near the wall’s South Gate (Nan Men), on Shun Cheng Nan Lu, a row of venues offer a bar scene that is decidedly contemporary, except you are having your beer with an atmospheric view of the fortification. The Belgian Bar (http://belgian-bar-xian.com), is popular among the city’s expatriates, possibly because of the owner’s Australian background.
Reggie Ho 
