Activists are making gains in the campaign to preserve the Cambodian capital's unique colonial architecture from eradication, says Thin Le Win.
Fittingly for a city founded in the 15th century, Phnom Penh’s star attractions are mostly architectural and form an important part of the city’s landscape. From ancient monuments such as the magnificent Royal Palace and the graceful French-colonial buildings to the striking new Khmer architecture which flourished in the 1960s, the capital of Cambodia boasts a wonderful mix of elements and flavours.
However, these colonial structures and the 1960s architecture spearheaded by Vann Molyvann, one of the best-known and well-respected Khmer architects, are in danger of being destroyed, from neglect and lately from development. Just a few months ago, The Bassac Theatre, one of Molyvann’s masterpieces and damaged by fire in 1994, was sold and many are worried that it will be razed to the ground.
Historian Darryl Collins, who recently co-authored a book on Phnom Penh’s 1960s architecture says: “I’m afraid that with the modernisation of the city, a lot of the ’60s architecture is being lost. Obviously, sometimes they don’t fit in with modern development and if you read the papers last week, high-rise is all the rage. So there’s this age-old problem about development and preservation. I say, ‘you shouldn’t save everything but you should save the best’.”
This debate is coming to a head at a time when Cambodia is emerging from its turbulent past. Tourism figures are increasing and the country is experiencing a strong economic growth (statistics show GDP increased by over 10 percent in 2006).
Even from the outside, one realises that Ambre is not your average boutique. Forget the stunning designer clothes it houses, the two-storey, ochre 1930s colonial building with white shutters, wrought iron doors and an ornate staircase is an attraction in itself.
“Being in Cambodia, I didn’t want something too modern. Especially since there are so many beautiful buildings like this, it’d be a shame to leave them. If I hadn’t taken it, someone would have taken it and destroyed it,” says Romyda Keth.
When the diminutive designer took over the building almost three years ago to house her much sought-after collection, it was a total ruin. Romyda’s husband renovated it to its former glory and built an extension – designed in perfect keeping with the original structure – from the ground up.
Alexis de Suremain is another resident who’s enamoured with the city’s old buildings. He runs The Pavilion, a charming boutique hotel housed in a stunning building allegedly built in the 1920s by Queen Kossamak, the retired King Sihanouk’s mother, so that she could be close to the Botum Royal Pagoda where she often liked to go to pray. The original floor tiles are still behind the reception table.
He remembers: “When we got here, there were no bathrooms, the staircase was broken and the building was abandoned.”
The hotel has been a labour of love for De Suremain and his wife, who owns Elsewhere bar, also set in a colonial building. They are constantly on the lookout for old buildings but De Suremain admits the opportunities are becoming narrower.
He says: “It’s not because it’s old that it’s nice and it’s not because it’s new that it’s bad. It will be nice to have a city that has both to show the dynamics.”
Keth and De Suremain are not alone in their desire to preserve Phnom Penh’s varied but rapidly diminishing heritage architecture. From business owners and historians to non-profit organisations and non-governmental agencies, activities are underway to ensure that such historical structures are not sacrificed as the country surges forward economically.
Stefanie Irmer, who runs Khmer Architecture (KA) Tours, is one such passionate advocate. The German says: “The whole city of Phnom Penh is heritage. For us, as foreigners, we like the idea of exploring a town by its buildings and seeing the evolution, like in Berlin and Paris. We cannot tell anybody to change their living habits, but what I don’t want is the buildings to go away without any real debate.”
The tours, started in 2003 by an English architect for Khmer architecture students, have become so popular that more are being added. The monthly cyclo tours (US$10) are the most popular, where travellers explore central Phnom Penh and colonial buildings and modern, post-independence architecture on cyclos.
However, the tours have yet to attract the locals, despite a steep discount (US$1), partly due to the language barrier – currently the tours are in English only – and partly due to the lack of interest. It is the latter that has the current crop of preservationists, most of whom are expatriates, worried.
Dr Dougald O’Reilly is the founder and director of Heritage Watch, a non-profit organisation established in 2003 after he saw a surge in the looting of ancient sites in Cambodia. Heritage Watch now combats this trend through means such as grassroots education and social development and sustainable tourism projects.
O’Reilly says while the municipal government is well aware of the value of preserving these buildings, the local population is not overly concerned with the issue. Historian Collins agrees: “Sadly, there’s not a great Cambodian recognition of heritage other than Angkor heritage.”
Heritage Watch is hoping its project on the city’s architecture will change this attitude. It involves the erection of plaques on historic buildings with the architect’s name, the date of construction and highlighting the structure’s importance. Unfortunately, funding has been an issue – around US$20,000 is needed – and the project is currently in limbo.
Many also say the locals’ lack of interest has to do with the matter of status in a developing country where new trumps old and a shiny skyscraper is considered more of a measure of success than a century-old villa. The fact that the overwhelming majority of travellers pick Siem Reap over Phnom Penh, especially since the open skies policy introduced at the start of the millennium allows direct flights to the former, is another issue.
Irmer of KA Tours says: “Phnom Penh has a really unique ’60s flair in a lot of corners. It has a mix of different periods and kinds of architecture, and this fusion makes it really interesting. If people take time to explore, there is much to be found.
“The tours are about raising awareness. We want to provide a platform for people to view the country apart from the temples, and that’s why we want more and more tourists to do this tour and look at the buildings. Perhaps then these buildings will not be destroyed.”
If increased interest from tourists is to make an impact, then there are encouraging signs that the capital city’s timeless treasures may still stand for future generations to enjoy. Companies like KA Tours and business owners who are investing in preserving the country’s heritage architecture are seeing positive returns.
One such example is The Pavilion, which opened in August 2006. To be fair, with only 18 rooms, it has a much easier task of boasting a higher occupancy rate than a 200-room monolith, but even during off-peak seasons, the hotel is often full. Its beautiful pool and garden area with Wi-Fi also attract hordes of local expatriates.
Perhaps the best outcome has been how its success has prompted the building’s owner to start acquiring and renovating heritage buildings. The hotel itself is now undergoing expansion. A 1960s building next door is being renovated and expected to add eight extra rooms by the year end.
A regional non-governmental organisation active in promoting sustainable tourism is also helping to co-ordinate a new marketing campaign, centred on the positive aspects of Cambodia including Phnom Penh’s fusion of heritage buildings. ?
Sharee Ann Bauld, tourism specialist with MPDF, a multi-donor funded Mekong-wide initiative managed by the International Finance Corporation,?says: “For a long time, Cambodia has been associated with negative images – the Khmer Rogue, the landmines and the poverty – and we wanted to emphasise the amazing variety of attractions it offers.
“At the forefront is Phnom Penh’s amazing architecture. Tourism businesses will showcase the Royal Palace, the Independence Monument and the famous architectural legacy of Vann Molyvann, instead of just the Killing Fields.” ?
She adds the campaign will also introduce a “Khmer” brand signifying the long tradition of Cambodian-made products.
O’Reilly says travellers can also do their part by supporting businesses that are heritage-friendly and taking tours with KA “and get to know the nuances of Phnom Penh and feel the rhythm of a deep and fascinating history in the capital”.
For the moment, in what must be good news for lovers of heritage architecture, the FCC Phnom Penh has managed to obtain the title deeds for one of the most visible architectural relics in town. Known as “the old French mansion”, this ornate 1920s colonial villa across from the National Museum has been a structure of interest for locals and travellers, “a gorgeous, crumbling mansion with an estimated worth of some US$2 million,” according to the FCC.
Anthony Alderson, FCC’s operations director, says the FCC has been interested in the building for about 15 years and believes the renovated building will create a unique selling point. He explains: “The kind of tourists we’re particularly looking for are interested in heritage culture and arts, so restoring old buildings kind of fits into it.”
There is much work ahead, however. The building hasn’t been maintained since the mid-1970s. Inside, gaping holes riddle the ceiling, the fading blue walls are covered with graffiti and the decorative tiles on the floor are loose and cracked in several places. But Alderson is undeterred.
When renovations, slated to start next year, are complete, the villa will become a 24-room luxury hotel with a swimming pool, a French bistro and a structural link to the adjacent FCC restaurant, also housed in a colonial building.
O’Reilly, for one, is happy to hear the FCC is taking over the building “that has, too long, stood in very poor repair”. He says: “These are the kind of structures that lend charm to the city and increase its appeal as a tourism destination. As I understand the FCC intends to restore the structure, it will add a good deal of value to the city.”
NOT TO BE MISSED
VISUAL GEMS
The amalgam of architecture structures listed below is a must-see if you want to get a true sense of Phnom Penh’s history and its majestic buildings. For colonial splendours, take a stroll along Street 240, the Old French Quarter (the post office area) and the riverfront, especially around Streets 106 and 108.
- Central Market (Phsar Thmey)
Street 128. Open early morning until evening. - Independence Monument
At the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards. Open daily. - National Museum of Cambodia
Streets 178 and 13, next to the Royal Palace. Admission: US$2. Open daily, 0800 to 1330 and 1400 to 1700. - Olympic Stadium
(part of The National Sports Complex)
Near the corner of Sihanouk and Monireth Boulevards. Open daily. - Royal Palace
Sothearos between Streets 240 and 184. Admission: US$3 per person, US$2/camera, US$5/video cam. Open daily from 0730 to 1100 and 1430 to 1700. - Wat Phnom
Intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Boulevard. Admission: US$1 per person. Open daily.
WHERE TO EAT
Whether you’re looking for a short stop to rest your weary feet, a delicious lunch to replenish your energy or a great dinner, here are some of the city’s best places to wine and dine.
FCC PHNOM PENH
363 Sisowath Quay
In a colonial building, this is the best place to see the sunset, with views of the mighty Mekong on one side and the National Museum on the other. It helps that the sunset happy hour slashes cocktail prices by half and draft beer to US$1.
A meal for two starts from US$12. Open daily from 0700 to 2400.
JAVA CAFÉ & GALLERY
56 Sihanouk Boulevard
Its friendly atmosphere complements a selection of great coffee and salads. Also hosts regular art and photography exhibitions at the attached gallery.
A meal for two starts from US$8. Open daily from 0700 to 2200.
METRO CAFÉ
Sisowath Quay and Street 148
A stylish restaurant that offers delicious contemporary Asian tapas, the best French fries this side of Southeast Asia and a scrumptious range of martinis – the chocolate martini is a must.
A meal for two starts from US$16 without drinks. Open daily from 1000 to 0200.
RAFFELS LE ROYAL
STREET 92
This stunning colonial building, renovated to its former splendour, houses one of the city’s most expensive hotels as well as the cosy Elephant Bar, perfect for knocking back some sundowners.
The bar is open daily from 1400 to 2400, Mon-Fri and 1200 to 2400 Sat and Sun.
ROMDENG
21 Street 278
Run by NGO Friends-International, this local restaurant is also a non-profit training school for disadvantaged youths. The dishes are simple but tasty and if you’re feeling adventurous, try the fried tarantulas.
A meal for two starts from US$10. Open daily from 1100 till late.
SA
Villa 389 Street 184
An elegant restaurant housed in a colonial building with a gorgeous rooftop terrace affording views of the Royal Palace and the river front. The French cuisine it serves is equally gorgeous.
A meal for two starts from US$30. Open daily from 1200 to 1400 and 1900 to 2200. Closed on Sunday.
FACT FILE
- Heritage Watch www.heritagewatch.org
- Khmer Architecture Tours www.ka-tours.org
- The Pavilion www.pavilion-cambodia.com
- FCC Phnom Penh www.fcccambodia.com
