Features

Hong Kong's Kings Of Cuisine

1 Jan 2008 by business traveller
Hongkong not only boasts great restaurants but also great celebrity chef restaurants. Margie T Logarta dines at all four of them, evenly distributed between Hongkong Island and Kowloon. Hongkong’s discriminating palate is catered to by, not just one, but four restaurants showcasing the talents of high-powered names – all Michelin stars – in the culinary firmament. Evenly distributed between Hongkong Island’s Central district and Kowloon’s Tsim Sha Tsui precinct (in the InterContinental Hotel to be exact), these sleek kitchens are constantly educating their clientele in the latest food trends as well as providing them unforgettable experiences in the good life.

HONGKONG ISLAND

01. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

A discrete entrance, tucked away in The Landmark on Queens Road Central, leads to a lift that whisks guests up to the fourth floor to a small waiting area. Depending on the reservation, you could be bound for the main dining room or the bar area beyond. The second choice is much more fun in our opinion as counter seating allowed us to see up close Chef Philippe Groult –?Robuchon’s trusted man and a two-star chef in his own right – and his team scurry about preparing the day’s meals. But despite the pre-lunch mêlée (we showed up at 12 noon), someone from the staff, especially assistant manager Hugo Cheng, would always check if we required anything or readily answer our queries about the ingredients of an interesting dish. (We learned the delicious mini croissants that started off our meal were made by the Japanese pastry chef whose confections are featured in the Salon de The (one floor below). This is no stuffy French restaurant, and more like a bistro where everyone knows your name. For those not keen on the rather pricey daily set lunch, the à la carte menu offers either small tasting portions or full plates. The rock lobster a la plancha with citrus polenta we had for our mains could only be described as succulent. This restaurant is lucky to have a garden, which diners can look out to while waiting for their next course to arrive. PRICE: Lunch per person starts from HK$390 (US$50) without drinks; dinner per person starts from HK$1,450 (US$186) without drinks. OPENING HOURS: Lunch daily 1200 to 1430; dinner daily 1830 to 2230. CONTACT: Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queens Road Central, Hongkong, tel 852 2166 9000, www.robuchon.hk 02. Pierre Entering through a dramatic lobby of black galaxy marble and silver leaf, guests are greeted by a video wall showcasing the evocative cuisine of three Michelin-star Parisian chef, Pierre Gagnaire, together with images of handcrafted woven wrought iron artwork. They proceed past a glass wine cellar containing hundreds of bottles of wine, including rare vintage Dom Pérignons. The main restaurant seats up to 67 and there is also an elegant and intimate private dining room with seating for up to 14, featuring a magnificent backlit Oriental ceiling. Pierre whispers contemporary luxury, with the maestro himself having had a say in every aspect of the look and feel of his second outpost in Asia (the other is Pierre Gagnaire in Tokyo). The main design elements incorporate luxurious fabrics in a mixture of charcoals, burnt cherry, midnight blues and black coffee highlighted with silver and crystal. The full-length windows guarantee exceptional views over Victoria Harbour. To appreciate Gagnaire’s art is to dare one’s palate to go beyond the familiar. Imagine an Australian crayfish poached in vegetable broth with Chablis; caramelised sweet corn, tomato and cucumber, vegetable custard with sardine cream; black rice enhanced with dry apricot and for dessert, a sweetened arugula or “spicy red pepper” poached apple with Sultana. His is certainly not a timid cuisine, but rather, an invitation to walk on the wild side. PRICE: Lunch for two starts from HK$800 (US$103) without drinks; dinner for two starts from HK$1,500 (US$192). OPENING HOURS: Lunch, Monday to Friday 1200 to 1500; dinner Monday to Saturday 1900 to 2230. Closed Sunday and public holidays. CONTACT: 25/F, Mandarin Oriental Hongkong, 5 Connaught Road, tel 852 2522 0111, www.mandarinoriental.com

KOWLOON

03. NOBU InterContinental Hongkong This Hongkong restaurant of the acclaimed chef, simply known as “Nobu”, is the 17th in a chain that operates in 13 cities around the world, including Beverly Hills where his Matsuhisa catapulted him to fame and led him to a partnership with actor Robert De Niro for NOBU in New York City. Traditional and modern elements characterise the restaurant that consists of a cocktail lounge, sushi bar and dining room designed by the Rockwell Group of New York to flow seamlessly into each other, taking inspiration from the Japanese countryside as well as the Victoria Harbour. Rich dark timber, black stone, shells from sea urchins and images of cherry blossoms and ripples of water are but some of the elements creating a serene oasis in a dynamic city. Having created waves since opening in December 2006 with signature dishes such as soft-shell crab roll (a must-try), Toro tartar with caviar, Rock shrimp tempura with ponzu or creamy spicy sauce, NOBU recently launched Hongkong-inspired dishes such as steamed cauliflower with dashi and slow-cooked abalone topped with caviar, Japanese halibut, thinly sliced and topped with home-made XO sauce and sautéed spiny lobster with Japanese tamari soy sauce infused with Sichuan pepper among others. PRICE: Lunch for two starts from HK$387 (US$49.64) per person without drinks; dinner starts from HK$716 (US$92) per person without drinks. OPENING HOURS: Lunch daily 1200 to 1430, dinner daily 1800 to 2300; Nobu Bar open daily 1200 to 1430 and 1800 to 2400. CONTACT: 2/F, InterContinental Hongkong, 1 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, tel 852 2313 2323, www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com 04. SPOON by Alain Ducasse Innovation infuses the dining experience at Monsieur Ducasse’s contemporary roost at the InterContinental Hongkong. It’s classical French cooking with a modern and often, surprising twist, so those not willing to step out of their comfort zones, keep out! The new à la carte menu features SPOON “Original”and French favourites inspired by the maestro. There is also the signature “Sexy Spoon Menu”, a six-course tasting presentation designed by Chef Tjaco van Eijken, who ably translates his boss’ vision of fine dining into the dishes served, adding a touch of his own ingenuity as well. F&B maven designer Tony Chi cleverly lined the restaurant ceiling with, what else, silver spoons. A great conversation piece! PRICE: Dinner for two starts from HK$658 (US$84) per person without drinks; Sunday lunch per person is from HK$558 (US$71) including a glass of Ducasse champagne and selected wines. OPENING HOURS: Dinner daily 1800 to 2300, with lunch on Sunday 1200 to 1430. The SPOON Bar opens daily 1800 to 2400. CONTACT: Lobby Level, InterContinental Hongkong, 1 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hongkong, tel 852 2313 2323, www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
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