Shed off that suit, kick off those heels and get ready to range the length and breadth of Lantau Island, Hongkong's great - and often underrated - backyard. Julian Tan and Kenneth Yap did, returning with a host of activities to fill up a weekend and more.
The largest island in Hongkong, Lantau (pop: 45,000) boasts a wealth of attractions, often bypassed by first timers and repeat visitors alike, who, unaware they exist, stick to the tried-and-tested experiences of Central, Tsim Sha Tsui, Causeway Bay and Ocean Park. Little do they know what they’re missing: bracing fresh air, timeless scenery, sweeping spaces and alright, if one must shop, a chance to land some authentic bargains. Still not convinced? Survey this list.
BEST FOOD RESTAURANT Located in the tranquil and quiet Ma Wan Village, surrounded by scenic mountains and lush greenery, this eatery has earned a reputation among local residents for providing “great food at affordable prices”. Known for fresh seafood, it’s an ideal choice for those seeking to experience a more traditional dining experience. Patrons can enjoy delicious dim sum from 0700 until 1100, after which the restaurant’s famed seafood dishes take centre stage. Reaching the restaurant might pose a challenge to some due to Ma Wan’s secluded address. However, the tantalising selections make the exertion worth your while. GETTING THERE: From Tung Chung MTR Station, call the restaurant to arrange a free two-way private car shuttle service (each journey can seat up to seven passengers) or flag a taxi on Lantau Island and head towards Ma Wan Village. The journey costs approximately HK$15 (US$1.93) and takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Once there, walk past the large traditional Chinese archway entrance and keep walking. If in doubt, approach any of the friendly residents for assistance or call 852 2988 8546. 03. STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
PO LIN MONASTERY This monastery is home to the famous 26-metre-high giant Buddha statue, also known as Tian Tan Buddha. Visitors hoping to reach the top of the attraction have to climb more than five flights of stairs, which might prove to be an extremely tiring and exhausting experience for many. But once achieved, there are panoramic views of Lantau Island and invigorating air, both not readily available in urban areas of Hongkong, to enjoy. Directly below the giant Buddha is an exhibition centre, showcasing a series of Buddhist scriptures and traditional Chinese relics and antiques. Open daily from 1000 to 1730, guests can also order a vegetarian meal at the monastery, for HK$60 (US$7.73) for a standard meal and HK$100 (US$12.90) for a deluxe meal, inclusive of traditional dishes such as spring rolls, vegetables and bean curd. Be warned though, the 40-minute uphill journey from Tung Chung bus terminal to the monastery is a fairly bumpy ride, with many narrow bends and sharp turns. But encounters with cows wandering along the paths and views of stunning landscape will make you forget any discomfort. GETTING THERE: From Tung Chung bus terminal, hop on to the New Lantao Bus Company’s service number 23 to Ngong Ping. Fare: HK$25 (US$3.22) for an adult Single Journey on Sundays and public holidays and HK$16 (US$2.06) on weekdays. Check www.plm.org.hk for details. 04. WALKING WITH BUDDHA
NGONG PING VILLAGE This 15,000-square-metre village features traditional Chinese architectural design, as well as a range of shopping and dining options. It also incorporates several major themed attractions including “Walking with Buddha” (a multimedia experience explaining the life of the Buddha and his path to enlightenment), “Monkey’s Tale Theatre” (a show inspired by the famous Buddha Jataka stories) and Ngong Ping Teahouse (a store carrying a wide selection of fine teas and cakes, and providing regular demonstrations of traditional Chinese tea ceremonies). Visitors can also pick up an array of unique souvenirs such as Buddhist sculptures, soft toys and collector chopsticks. Despite being affected by the temporary closure of the Ngong Ping Skyrail, the attraction still manages to appeal to a number of visitors. GETTING THERE: It’s a five-minute walk from Po Lin Monastery. Check www.np360.com.hk or tel 852 2109 9898. 05. SUNRISE VIEWING
LANTAU PEAK (FUNG WONG SHAN) At 934m above sea level, it is the second highest peak in Hongkong, famous for its fantastic sunrise views. However, getting to the summit is certainly no easy feat and entails a two- to three-hour climb to the top. To ensure that you are well prepared for the tedious hike, pack several bottles of water and some fresh fruits to maintain hydration. Also, travel as light as possible. Wearing comfortable shoes that fit properly is a must or be prepared to bear the resulting pain. GETTING THERE: To reach the summit by foot, walk along the Wisdom Path (on the right of Po Lin Monastery), past the Youth Hostel, all the way to the top. By bus, take New Lantao Bus Company’s service number 3M, 11 or 23 from Tung Chung bus terminal to Pak Kung Au and do the remaining distance walking.
CHEUNG SHA/PUI O On the island’s south coast is South Lantau Road, which runs across from Tai O to Mui Wo and consists of inhabited spots like Cheung Sha Beach, which is one of Hongkong’s longest beaches stretching 2km from east to west, Lower Cheung Sha Village and Pui O beach. Weekends here are especially popular among the locals and tourists who patronise its beachfront restaurants. In Lower Cheung Sha Village, the South African and Mediterranean restaurant named Stoep (meaning “patio” in Portuguese) holds court, while Pui O, also called Silvermine Bay, houses another trendy joint called Ooh La La!, which dishes out western and Thai food in the lively ambience of old music hits and Spanish music playing. Beware though, the views and sea breeze take a toll on the food prices which are rather high. A moderate meal for two at Ooh La La! can set you back at HK$380 (US$49) without tax, including an appetiser, two mains and beverages. Besides the casual diners, families and friends come here for the sand and water or a tug of war. GETTING THERE: From Mui Wo, bus 1 takes you to Pui O and Cheung Sha or ask the bus driver for directions. To reserve a table, call Stoep at 852 2980 2699 or Ooh La La! at 852 2984 8710. 08. FRIENDLY TOWN
MUI WO This self-contained rural town southeast of the island lies along the Lantau trail. Its city centre boasts a public swimming pool (open from April to October), parks, a municipal services building, a wet market (open between 0600 and 2200), villas for rent and public toilets that are immaculate. Residents are friendly and can point you in the right direction, although many would rather say it in Cantonese, rather than English. Walking distance from the city centre lies the Mui Wo pier, the base of ferries to and from Hongkong Island and Kowloon, as well as the outlying islands like Cheung Chau and Peng Chau. There is also a bus terminal for services to certain areas on the island, a supermarket, school, real estate agent and food outlets ranging from McDonald’s to a Turkish restaurant. Particularly crowded with foreigners is the China Bear pub, where a Miller Draught goes for HK$25 (US$3.22). GETTING THERE: From Tung Chung, take bus 3M. Fare: HK$9.80 (US$1.26) one way on weekdays, HK$15 (US$1.93) on Sun and public holiday. Note, this is a hilly path buffeted occasionally by strong winds until you reach South Lantau Road. Alternatively, take the ferry from Hongkong Island or Kowloon. Check www.nwff.com.hk for ferry schedules. 09. ALFRESCO FEVER
DISCOVERY BAY Also known as Disco Bay or just “DB”, the much-hyped development is located on the eastern tip of Lantau Island and is home to a population of about 15,000. A recent redevelopment of the community plaza has resulted in a stylish set of dining options called Water Margin, which capitalises on an alfresco atmosphere. The 3,809-square-metre complex consists of waterfront dining, a piazza and deck facing Tai Pak Bay with several designated points for berthing the boats. While lounging, patrons can even check their email as Wi-Fi is available free of charge along the beach and in the eateries. The range of cuisines includes Turkish, Sichuan and Mexican. There are also big plans for DB, including a hotel and shopping centre slated to open in early 2009. Other activities on the island include teeing off at the DB Golf Club and hiking. GETTING THERE: Bus DB01R from Tung Chung terminal will take 15 minutes and cost HK$8 (US$1) one way. Alternatively, ferry services are available from Central Pier 3 on Hongkong Island; HK$27 (US$3.50) one way taking 25 minutes to reach. 10. MAGIC KINGDOM
HONGKONG DISNEYLAND Since opening in 2005, the theme park on Lantau Island’s Sunny Bay continues to build on a blueprint that entails a 15-year expansion, while attracting visitors both local and foreign. Four whimsical kingdoms – Fantasyland, Tomorrowland, Adventureland and Main Street, USA – make the characters whom we’re all too familiar with, come to life. With queues snaking around the not-too-many rides, a trip to the park is usually a full-day affair. Fret not, just book a room at any of the two hotels, Disneyland and Hollywood Hotels. The former boasts magical-themed rooms and suites in the opulent Victorian style, while the latter has 600 guestrooms for family fun. Off-site facilities include the Inspiration Lake and Recreation Centre, and the Arboretum for picnics. GETTING THERE: Take the Tung Chung-bound MTR and alight at Sunny Bay station, then switch to the Disneyland Resort Line. Log onto www.park.hongkongdisneyland.com for more details.
UPPER LANTAU
01. DISCOUNT MECCA CITYGATE OUTLETS
Hongkong’s premier destination for bargain hunters, the 42,995-square-metre complex is spread over five levels, with a collection of over 50 shops, including luxury brands like Polo Ralph Lauren and Bally to mid-range names like Esprit and Timberland, all with discounts ranging from 30 to 70 percent. Located on the island’s north side, the building even features a supermarket, cinema and an array of restaurants and dining outlets such as Häagen-Dazs, Delifrance and Golden Shanghai Cuisine, all the makings of a wonderful shopping experience. A favourite among both locals and visitors alike, the mall is especially crowded on weekends with a combination of families, couples, tourists and bargain hunters. While most stores carry a wide range of apparel and fashion accessories, sizing and colours may be limited. However, the friendly and helpful staff plus hefty savings make up for this downside. Most establishments are open daily from 1000 to 2200. GETTING THERE: From Hongkong Station, take the Tung Chung line to Tung Chung MTR Station and head towards Exit C. Fare: HK$23 (US$2.96) for a Single Journey one-way fare or HK$20.10 (US$2.59) one way using an Octopus Card. Check www.citygateoutlets.com.hk for details. 02. TRADITIONAL SETTINGBEST FOOD RESTAURANT Located in the tranquil and quiet Ma Wan Village, surrounded by scenic mountains and lush greenery, this eatery has earned a reputation among local residents for providing “great food at affordable prices”. Known for fresh seafood, it’s an ideal choice for those seeking to experience a more traditional dining experience. Patrons can enjoy delicious dim sum from 0700 until 1100, after which the restaurant’s famed seafood dishes take centre stage. Reaching the restaurant might pose a challenge to some due to Ma Wan’s secluded address. However, the tantalising selections make the exertion worth your while. GETTING THERE: From Tung Chung MTR Station, call the restaurant to arrange a free two-way private car shuttle service (each journey can seat up to seven passengers) or flag a taxi on Lantau Island and head towards Ma Wan Village. The journey costs approximately HK$15 (US$1.93) and takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Once there, walk past the large traditional Chinese archway entrance and keep walking. If in doubt, approach any of the friendly residents for assistance or call 852 2988 8546. 03. STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
PO LIN MONASTERY This monastery is home to the famous 26-metre-high giant Buddha statue, also known as Tian Tan Buddha. Visitors hoping to reach the top of the attraction have to climb more than five flights of stairs, which might prove to be an extremely tiring and exhausting experience for many. But once achieved, there are panoramic views of Lantau Island and invigorating air, both not readily available in urban areas of Hongkong, to enjoy. Directly below the giant Buddha is an exhibition centre, showcasing a series of Buddhist scriptures and traditional Chinese relics and antiques. Open daily from 1000 to 1730, guests can also order a vegetarian meal at the monastery, for HK$60 (US$7.73) for a standard meal and HK$100 (US$12.90) for a deluxe meal, inclusive of traditional dishes such as spring rolls, vegetables and bean curd. Be warned though, the 40-minute uphill journey from Tung Chung bus terminal to the monastery is a fairly bumpy ride, with many narrow bends and sharp turns. But encounters with cows wandering along the paths and views of stunning landscape will make you forget any discomfort. GETTING THERE: From Tung Chung bus terminal, hop on to the New Lantao Bus Company’s service number 23 to Ngong Ping. Fare: HK$25 (US$3.22) for an adult Single Journey on Sundays and public holidays and HK$16 (US$2.06) on weekdays. Check www.plm.org.hk for details. 04. WALKING WITH BUDDHA
NGONG PING VILLAGE This 15,000-square-metre village features traditional Chinese architectural design, as well as a range of shopping and dining options. It also incorporates several major themed attractions including “Walking with Buddha” (a multimedia experience explaining the life of the Buddha and his path to enlightenment), “Monkey’s Tale Theatre” (a show inspired by the famous Buddha Jataka stories) and Ngong Ping Teahouse (a store carrying a wide selection of fine teas and cakes, and providing regular demonstrations of traditional Chinese tea ceremonies). Visitors can also pick up an array of unique souvenirs such as Buddhist sculptures, soft toys and collector chopsticks. Despite being affected by the temporary closure of the Ngong Ping Skyrail, the attraction still manages to appeal to a number of visitors. GETTING THERE: It’s a five-minute walk from Po Lin Monastery. Check www.np360.com.hk or tel 852 2109 9898. 05. SUNRISE VIEWING
LANTAU PEAK (FUNG WONG SHAN) At 934m above sea level, it is the second highest peak in Hongkong, famous for its fantastic sunrise views. However, getting to the summit is certainly no easy feat and entails a two- to three-hour climb to the top. To ensure that you are well prepared for the tedious hike, pack several bottles of water and some fresh fruits to maintain hydration. Also, travel as light as possible. Wearing comfortable shoes that fit properly is a must or be prepared to bear the resulting pain. GETTING THERE: To reach the summit by foot, walk along the Wisdom Path (on the right of Po Lin Monastery), past the Youth Hostel, all the way to the top. By bus, take New Lantao Bus Company’s service number 3M, 11 or 23 from Tung Chung bus terminal to Pak Kung Au and do the remaining distance walking.
LOWER LANTAU
06. LAID-BACK HAVEN TAI O
Primitive, laid-back and warm, this fishing village west of Lantau Island is the antithesis of Soho, Hongkong’s hip dining and entertainment precinct. Age-old houses sit on stilts above water, mangroves grow in abundance, two pedestrian bridges link villages on the island, and deities continue to be venerated by the residents as they have been for centuries. This is the very picture of the ideal rustic life – the women while away their time playing mahjong or preparing meals for their families, while their children happily play and cycle around the streets. Hawkers sell pungent prawn paste, dried salted fish and other seafood stuff. However, the signs of the times are unmistakable. The rope-drawn ferry for shuttling villagers across the river is now unused in favour of the pedestrian bridge. Thanks to protests by residents, and even foreigners over the years against plans to redevelop the area, the neighbourhood retains its charm. Although how long this will continue remains the big question. A HK$629 million (US$81.12 million) redevelopment that seems to be in the works has inspired a vigorous petition signed by 1,000 people. GETTING THERE: From the bus terminal at Tung Chung MTR Station, take bus 11 which departs every half hour. Fare: HK$11 (US$1.42) one way, from Mon to Fri; HK$18 (US$2.32) on weekend. Weekly walking tours conducted in English are run by the Tai O Community Work Office of the Hongkong Young Women’s Christian Association. Check www.discoverhongkong.com for more information. 07. BY THE BEACHCHEUNG SHA/PUI O On the island’s south coast is South Lantau Road, which runs across from Tai O to Mui Wo and consists of inhabited spots like Cheung Sha Beach, which is one of Hongkong’s longest beaches stretching 2km from east to west, Lower Cheung Sha Village and Pui O beach. Weekends here are especially popular among the locals and tourists who patronise its beachfront restaurants. In Lower Cheung Sha Village, the South African and Mediterranean restaurant named Stoep (meaning “patio” in Portuguese) holds court, while Pui O, also called Silvermine Bay, houses another trendy joint called Ooh La La!, which dishes out western and Thai food in the lively ambience of old music hits and Spanish music playing. Beware though, the views and sea breeze take a toll on the food prices which are rather high. A moderate meal for two at Ooh La La! can set you back at HK$380 (US$49) without tax, including an appetiser, two mains and beverages. Besides the casual diners, families and friends come here for the sand and water or a tug of war. GETTING THERE: From Mui Wo, bus 1 takes you to Pui O and Cheung Sha or ask the bus driver for directions. To reserve a table, call Stoep at 852 2980 2699 or Ooh La La! at 852 2984 8710. 08. FRIENDLY TOWN
MUI WO This self-contained rural town southeast of the island lies along the Lantau trail. Its city centre boasts a public swimming pool (open from April to October), parks, a municipal services building, a wet market (open between 0600 and 2200), villas for rent and public toilets that are immaculate. Residents are friendly and can point you in the right direction, although many would rather say it in Cantonese, rather than English. Walking distance from the city centre lies the Mui Wo pier, the base of ferries to and from Hongkong Island and Kowloon, as well as the outlying islands like Cheung Chau and Peng Chau. There is also a bus terminal for services to certain areas on the island, a supermarket, school, real estate agent and food outlets ranging from McDonald’s to a Turkish restaurant. Particularly crowded with foreigners is the China Bear pub, where a Miller Draught goes for HK$25 (US$3.22). GETTING THERE: From Tung Chung, take bus 3M. Fare: HK$9.80 (US$1.26) one way on weekdays, HK$15 (US$1.93) on Sun and public holiday. Note, this is a hilly path buffeted occasionally by strong winds until you reach South Lantau Road. Alternatively, take the ferry from Hongkong Island or Kowloon. Check www.nwff.com.hk for ferry schedules. 09. ALFRESCO FEVER
DISCOVERY BAY Also known as Disco Bay or just “DB”, the much-hyped development is located on the eastern tip of Lantau Island and is home to a population of about 15,000. A recent redevelopment of the community plaza has resulted in a stylish set of dining options called Water Margin, which capitalises on an alfresco atmosphere. The 3,809-square-metre complex consists of waterfront dining, a piazza and deck facing Tai Pak Bay with several designated points for berthing the boats. While lounging, patrons can even check their email as Wi-Fi is available free of charge along the beach and in the eateries. The range of cuisines includes Turkish, Sichuan and Mexican. There are also big plans for DB, including a hotel and shopping centre slated to open in early 2009. Other activities on the island include teeing off at the DB Golf Club and hiking. GETTING THERE: Bus DB01R from Tung Chung terminal will take 15 minutes and cost HK$8 (US$1) one way. Alternatively, ferry services are available from Central Pier 3 on Hongkong Island; HK$27 (US$3.50) one way taking 25 minutes to reach. 10. MAGIC KINGDOM
HONGKONG DISNEYLAND Since opening in 2005, the theme park on Lantau Island’s Sunny Bay continues to build on a blueprint that entails a 15-year expansion, while attracting visitors both local and foreign. Four whimsical kingdoms – Fantasyland, Tomorrowland, Adventureland and Main Street, USA – make the characters whom we’re all too familiar with, come to life. With queues snaking around the not-too-many rides, a trip to the park is usually a full-day affair. Fret not, just book a room at any of the two hotels, Disneyland and Hollywood Hotels. The former boasts magical-themed rooms and suites in the opulent Victorian style, while the latter has 600 guestrooms for family fun. Off-site facilities include the Inspiration Lake and Recreation Centre, and the Arboretum for picnics. GETTING THERE: Take the Tung Chung-bound MTR and alight at Sunny Bay station, then switch to the Disneyland Resort Line. Log onto www.park.hongkongdisneyland.com for more details.
PLAY IT SAFE
- If possible, avoid hiking alone as certain areas may be relatively secluded and dangerous.
- To protect yourself, do not carry any valuables with you.
- Stay on the mountain trail and avoid straying off course.
- Dress comfortably, but ensure that you bring a jacket as temperatures are sure to dip as you ascend the mountain.
- Bring several bottles of water as well as some fresh fruit, which help keep you hydrated throughout the climb.
- Be warned that mobile phone reception might be affected along the hike as certain areas of the mountain might have lower coverage.
