Valerian Ho maps out a whistle-stop tour of the city’s lesser-known eastern district

Hong Kong eastern district map

1. TIN HAU TEMPLE, SHAU KEI WAN

Hong Kong Island is the beating heart of the city and home to most of the major districts. The area along the northern shore is the most developed, while Central (to the west) is the financial hub.

About 20 minutes by underground from Central, Quarry Bay in the east has come up as an alternative business district. Shau Kei Wan is a further ten minutes by the Mass Transit Railway (MTR).

Start with a visit to a house of worship in this former fishing village. There are about 100 Tin Hau (“Goddess of the Sea”) temples in Hong Kong, referencing its roots as a major fishing port.

In 1874, Hong Kong faced one of the most severe typhoons in its history, causing more than 2,000 deaths – but Shau Kei Wan suffered relatively little damage. Residents believed it was Tin Hau who protected them, so they raised money and repaired the temple, notable for its colourful murals and elaborate wooden carvings.

It’s located at 53 Shau Kei Wan Main Street East and is open 8am-5pm daily.

2. ON LEE FISHBALL NOODLES

Shau Kei Wan Main Street East is a bustling strip filled with shops and restaurants. For a quick bite, try On Lee Fishball Noodles, something of an eastern district institution and located just opposite the temple at number 22.

Signature dishes include fish slices, beef brisket and wonton noodles (prices are about HK$26/£2 per bowl). It gets very busy from noon to 2pm, so avoid then if possible.

Open 7am-7pm daily.

3. MUSEUM OF COASTAL DEFENCE

After lunch, familiarise yourself with Hong Kong’s maritime history.

Leave Main Street East and head along Tung Hei Road to reach the museum, about a 15-minute walk away. It provides a detailed insight into the work of this former fort back in the territory’s British colonial days.

Walk the historical trail outside, where attractions include a military vehicle display complete with a British Comet Mark I tank. Then peruse the exhibitions, which present the city’s nautical history from the 14th century up until 1997, when People’s Liberation Army Hong Kong Garrison began to handle the city-state’s defence after the UK handed sovereignty over to China.

Open daily except Thurs 10am-5pm; entry HK$10 (80p) or free on Wed. hk.coastaldefence.museum

4. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE

Take a five-minute taxi ride to the Hong Kong Film Archive, on 50 Lei King Road at Sai Wan Ho.

Here you can relive the city’s cinematic past by browsing the resource centre or – if you have more time on your hands – taking in a movie.

Until June, the archive is exhibiting “A Myriad of Charm – In Commemoration of Hung Sin Nui”, a collection of video interviews, film clips and precious photos of the Cantonese opera diva, who died last year.

Open daily except Tues 10am-8pm; free entry. filmarchive.gov.hk

5. SOHO EAST

Two minutes’ walk from the Film Archive, Soho East is a good spot for relaxing over a snack or a glass of wine.

Located along the waterfront, this line-up of international restaurants, pubs, bars and cafés makes the most of the sea breeze with open-fronted venues.

Pull up a chair at Tapeo for tapas – plates start from HK$58 (£4.50) and wine from HK$48 (£3) per glass.

Open daily 12pm-12am; sohoeast.com.hk

6. FIREBOAT ALEXANDER GRANTHAM EXHIBITION GALLERY

Walk for ten minutes along the waterfront towards Quarry Bay and you’ll find retired fireboat Alexander Grantham, which went into service in 1953 and was decommissioned in 2002.

The former flagship of the Hong Kong Fire Services Department, it conducted rescue operations in Hong Kong’s waters. Its gallery showcases everything from 19th-century metal firefighter helmets to a 1950s morse code signalling lamp.

Open daily except Tues 10am-6pm; free entry. lcsd.gov.hk

7. CITYPLAZA

To catch a cab or board the MTR back to Hong Kong’s main hub, you need to pass through Cityplaza, the eastern district’s largest shopping centre. Local and international brands are showcased, and there is a wide range of restaurants.

Looking for a tasty memento of your visit? Call in at Kee Wah, one of the city’s best-known Chinese bakery chains. A Hong Kong Kee Gift package costs HK$120 (£9) and includes shortcakes, cookies and eggrolls.

If you have the energy, finish with a glide around the mall’s ice-skating rink, Ice Palace.

It’s open Mon-Fri 1.30pm-9.30pm, Sat 12.30pm-10pm, Sun 12.30pm-6pm; entry including skate hire from HK$65 (£5). Mall open 7am-12am. cityplaza.com