A boat ride along the Hoi An river offers a unique glimpse of Vietnam’s colourful culture, says Lucinda Law.
Tell people that you’re off to Hoi An, and chances are they might confuse it with Hanoi. However, those acquainted with this town just 30km away from Da Nang, will know that Hoi An was originally known as Faifo in the early 17th century when it served as an important trading port for the Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Dutch and French. This accounts for the unique and colourful wooden shophouses and assembly halls here, and the blend of foreign and Vietnamese cultures.
The lure of Hoi An becomes even stronger during every 14th of the lunar calendar, when this UNESCO World Heritage Site begins its full-moon celebrations by shutting off all fluorescent lights, relying on the soft hues of colourful lanterns in all shapes and sizes to illuminate the darkness. This was what most people and I had come here to experience, but it was the next morning that I discovered another fascinating cultural aspect of Hoi An.
Basking under the hot sun outside my beachfront suite at Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa, I was still reeling from the dreamy images of the last night’s revelries when the tour concierge told my partner and I that the guide for the eco-tour had been waiting for us at the lobby for some time. Upon the earnest recommendations of the friendly concierge and hotel manager Raymond, we had booked a tour at short notice.
We were told that the experience, organised by an enterprising local boy, had become a big hit with guests, and that we were sure to have a great time.
The fellow turned out to be Khoa, a young man of 27, who was beaming from ear to ear despite our lateness. As we made our way to a boat docked along the Hoi An river just a stone’s throw from the hotel lobby, we received another warm smile from its captain.
In fluent English, Khoa immediately launched into his opening spiel about the day’s adventure, which he dubbed the Water Coconut Palm Canal Paradise Tour, sharing with us how he started the business as well.
While at the university studying Hospitality and Tourism, Khoa came to realise that little had been done to preserve the environment and livelihood of the villagers even as tourism in Hoi An thrived. After graduation, he worked at the Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort and Spa, managing to save up some money. He asked his father, a fisherman for over 35 years, to come join his fledgling venture.
Just then, Khoa pointed to the back of the boat, introducing the gentleman at the steering wheel as his father, Mr Viet. In fact, his mother Rose was also involved. She was cooking the Vietnamese lunch, which was to be served on board a little later on.
As we approached the estuary between the Cua Dai Sea and Hoi An river, Khoa directed our gaze toward the horizon, gesticulating to the tip of the nearby stretch of village where his family owned a house and eatery, cheekily named “The End Of The World Restaurant”.
Khoa promised that if we finished early, we would visit the area. But first, it was time to experience some hands-on activities.
He beckoned to an elderly couple who was going about their daily fishing routine. Their tiny row boat drew up alongside our larger motorised vessel, and we were invited to come aboard (wearing life vests) to learn something about the Vietnamese fisherfolks’ way of life. The elderly woman, who looked to be in her 60s, stood on the edge of the boat and rowed steadily while her husband perched on the other end and cast a huge net into the water.
Khoa explained that he identified with the hard lot of elderly fishermen, who had to contend with dwindling stock in the river caused by over-fishing and pollution. It had come to a point where there was hardly any sizeable catch left to earn them a decent livelihood. This prompted Khoa and his father to embark on a mission to educate their neighbours about the benefits of eco-tourism, enlisting their participation by paying them to allow guests to observe how they went about their daily lives. The pair also paid them to collect rubbish that was soiling the river.
We saw for ourselves the sad situation when the fisherman hauled up his net with only three struggling tiny fish. He and his wife laughed heartily but resignedly at the day’s fortune. I had to refuse their offer of trying my hand at playing fisherman as I couldn’t even stand upright and find my balance in the middle of the boat. If I had persisted, I might have found myself in the middle of the sea. We bade them good luck, exchanging rounds of smiles and farewells.
Under the skilful manoeuvring of Mr Viet, the boat soon came to a gentle chug as we glided into the thick swathe of coconut palms not far from the main river. This peaceful oasis of greenery belied what was once a scene of fierce fighting and napalm bombardment during the Vietnam War in the ’70s. The density of the jungle and ebb and flow of the tide, helped provide camouflage and sanctuary for the Viet Cong.
Navigating the narrow avenues of coconut was only possible by a tiny row boat or, in this case, the round basket boat which Khoa teaches you how to use before taking you crab-fishing.
Paddling the basket boat or locally known as the thung chai with what resembles a long and flat ladle was no easy feat. One overly-excited move would cause your boat to spin madly around like a Disney Alice-in-Wonderland teacup ride. I could imagine how much fun it must be when Khoa organises a thung chai race for a big group of guests.
At last, when we managed to get the boat inching, we quietly made our way into the little waterways, creeping up on unsuspecting purple water crabs using a makeshift wooden fishing rod with a fish bait tied on a string at the end. Again, this proved to be a very suspenseful hands-on experience as one had to quickly pick up fishing techniques to pry the crustaceans from their tenacious grip on the palm trunk.
Thankfully, they did not make up part of our fresh seafood repast as I would have starved since I only caught one tiny exquisite one. As we returned to the main boat bobbing in the greenery, lunch was immediately served. After our meal, I asked Mr Viet to relate his memories of the war that took place in this tranquil place. With his son translating, the older man recalled that as a nine year old he had witnessed a blanket of napalm descending on the area.
The interaction made me realise the depth of Khoa’s sincerity and passion for his land and its people. His eco-tour was an unexpected but rich opportunity to learn about the culture and the Vietnamese soul.
Since starting up in late 2005, Khoa and his family have served over 2,000 visitors, providing them a window into the joys and struggles of the people of Hoi An. With the wealth of such a glorious heritage, it was heartening to see attempts to preserve their age-old traditions and the environment in an effort to minimise the impact of a thriving tourist trade and the inevitable changes.
Khoa then brought us to his home and toured us around his village. Ever the gentleman, he escorted us back to the hotel. Three people on a scooter – a typical journey for a Vietnamese, but an exhilarating one for this city slicker.
FACT FILE
GETTING THERE
SilkAir flies to Danang three times weekly from Singapore, while Cathay Pacific serves Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi daily from Hongkong and United operates daily to HCMC from Hongkong. Vietnam Airlines flies to Danang daily from Hanoi and HCMC. Then hire a taxi for US$16 to Hoi An town.
WHERE TO STAY
HOI AN RIVERSIDE HOTEL
Rack rates from US$129 for a Japanese or Vietnamese-style Standard Room with river or garden views, to US$189 for a Deluxe Room with river views.
Contact: 175 Cua Dai Road, Hoi An town, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam, www.hoianriverresort.com
THE NAM HAI
Rack rates from US$300 for a One-Bedroom Villa to US$950 for a Five-Bedroom Pool Villa.
Contact: Hamlet 1, Dien Duong village, Dien Ban district, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam, www.ghmhotels.com
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA
Rack rates from US$160 for a Superior Room with river views to US$310 for a Beachfront Honeymoon Suite.
Contact: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Town, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam, www.victoriahotels-asia.com
HOI AN ECO-TOUR
Water Coconut Palm Canal Paradise Tour costs US$49 per person for five hours, inclusive of a seafood lunch, fruit dessert, drinks, boat, local tour guide and car fees for pick up and drop off at hotel.
Contact: www.hoianecotour.com
