Mark Armsden finds a place in Thailand that's still free of malls and the usual tourist mayhem.
Thailand is famous for its unrivalled inventory of islands, which provide fortunate Bangkok residents quick escapes from the ever-increasing pressures of their urban landscape.
But not all islands are created equal – some cater to mass travel, while others cater to the well-heeled lone traveller. One jewel that suits perfectly the latter category is Koh Samed, a rocky – and for the most part, uninhabited – sanctuary off the sleepy coastal township of Rayong, about a 90-minute drive south of the capital. A few years ago, the journey would have taken four or five hours, but successive upgrading of the motorway south of Bangkok’s new airport has made the commute swifter and a lot more pleasant.
And it is set to become even quicker once the stretch of highway between Chonburi and Pattaya, which services the increasingly busy Laem Chabang Port and surrounding industrial centre, is complete.
Once in Rayong, there are a number of options to hop over to Koh Samed, including regular ferry services, which chug through the Gulf of Thailand like time was of no importance. Alternatively, you could enquire around the pier for a Miami Vice-like speed boat to zoom you over in under 30 minutes.
There are many places to stay, and a good choice is Paradee Resort of Samed Resorts, which I found perfect for my three-night getaway. As their guest, I enjoyed a number of very attractive perks. Check in was conducted at the hotel’s office on the mainland and I was allowed to leave my car in a private and well-guarded parking area. Once the formalities were over, I was escorted to a private speedboat, which deposited me at Kiu Na Nok Beach on the southern tip of the island before I could even stop gasping at the azure surroundings.
There, I received a personal welcome – as all guests are – and taken straight to a beachfront villa. The Paradee has only 40 villas (29 with their own plunge pools and Jacuzzis), a restaurant, a stylish spa and the Sunset Bar blissful for evening cocktails. Should this trip combine business and leisure, there is a boardroom that can comfortably seat up to 90 persons. (Although one would hope the sessions don’t always run overtime.)
Koh Samed is a narrow island running north to south, featuring a steep spine, which makes getting around somewhat complicated. However, this creates a great hiking experience for the adventurous. Those who reach the summit will be rewarded with fantastic views of the mainland.
The privacy and serenity provided by Paradee Resort are its best selling points. And this is what other resorts, even those catering to backpackers, strive to offer in their own way. The odd motorcycle or quadbike might be heard attempting the trail along the mountainous spine of the island, but apart from that, noise pollution remains at a minimum.
Thankfully, most locals frown on the use of jet skis, which ruin any sense of paradise. There are also no malls, fast-food outlets, cinemas or cars. If only this rare ambience could be maintained for as long as possible. While diving and snorkelling are delightful options, years of abuse by local fishermen and careless visitors have wreaked havoc on coral gardens, which are currently undergoing regeneration.
Seafood is abundant, and every day I took a kayak and visited a different beach for lunch. Besides getting needed exercise, it was a unique way to explore the neighbourhood. I would have done the same for dinner, but did not fancy rowing back in the dark. Anyhow, the cuisine at Paradee was wonderful, especially Chef Wanchai’s red curry duck. I asked for the recipe but alas, I still have yet to replicate his mastery of this scrumptious dish.
FACT FILE
- From Bangkok, driving is the only option. It takes about three hours from downtown Bangkok on the Bangkok-Chonburi highway, and around 30 minutes less from the Suvarnabhumi International Airport.
- Room rates at Paradee Resort start from US$409 for a Garden Villa and US$660 for a Beachfront Villa. Kayak use is free of charge.
- www.paradeeresort.com and www.samedresorts.com
