Hainan: China's pleasure island

Visitors are paying good money to enjoy what was once a dumping ground for exiles, reports Margie T Logarta It used to be called disparaging names such as the Gate of Hell” and the “End of the World”, but these days, people are spending good money – especially during the peak holiday season – for a taste of luxurious isolation. Hainan Island, particularly Sanya in the south, is the new hot magnet for China s increasingly affluent travellers, and a growing number of international pleasure seekers. It s balmy year round just like Hawaii (both sit roughly on the same latitude); doesn t require visas; and offers seafood that literally jumps onto your plate. As the Middle Kingdom s most far-flung territory, Hainan Island was the favourite dumping ground of undesirables and political exiles, including one Li Deyu (he, who coined the Gate of Hell tagline), a high official of the Tang Dynasty. For centuries, it existed in ignominy until fortune smiled on it in a big way. In 1988, the place was proclaimed a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), heralding a free-market environment that quickly settled into boisterous capitalism. Unfortunately, dreams of being an economic powerhouse have still not reached the dizzying scale of Guangdong and Fujian. There are few signs of heavy industry and a recognisable CBD with tall office towers, the usual trademark of a booming hub. Most of the 7.1 million inhabitants still make their living out of farming or fishing. But perhaps, Hainan Island’s destiny lies in another arena, one that local authorities, when presented with the opportunity, were quick to seize and turn into a stunning PR exercise which continues to pay off. Sanya's pristine beaches and smart golf courses, already well known to the Chinese tourist, received unprecedented coverage when the Miss World beauty pageant got the green light to stage the event there in 2002. This reflected a complete turnaround in the mindset of the central leadership, which had never publicly approved of this type of activity. All in the name of tourism. With such approbation, no effort was spared to prepare the resort city for its TV debut, which Miss World organisers said, at the time, would be viewed by two billion people in over 200 countries. The city dipped into its coffers, contributing US$31 million to repave and repair roads, highways and bridges; government and private sector forked over US$4.8 million for the Miss World licence; and more private money went into building the US$12 tiara-shaped convention centre – the Beauty Crown Theatre – for the programme, which saw celebrities like Sex and the City author Candace Bushnell and Asian superstar Jackie Chan on the judges’ panel. Although contest directrice Julia Morley has remarked that future competitions could be held in other parts of the country, it looks like Sanya may hold on to the hosting honours for a few more years. Last month, the 55th Miss World wrapped up with Miss Iceland, a dark-haired police officer, bagging the title. Sanya is justly famous for a number of beach attractions, which don’t take too long to get to from Sanya Phoenix Airport. Among them are: Luhuitou Peninsula, located five kilometers north of the city, tipping the edge of the South China Sea. Its name means “deer turning its head”, referring to the legend of a young hunter who pursued a lame deer until they arrived on the seaside cliffs of Wuzhishan. The creature turned into a beautiful girl whom the man married and went on to have a big family, enough to make up an entire village known as Luhuitou. There’s a sculpture on top of hill that depicts this myth. There is holiday accommodation as well as palm plantations, pearl farms and pleasant walks in abundance. Tiayanya Haijiao, which probably gave disgruntled resident Li Deiyu the idea to call Hainan Island “End of the World”, is popular with local visitors who must have their photo taken in front of the huge rock featured on the back of the CNY2 note. But there are other interestingly shaped rock formations scattered along the beach which also provide good backdrops. A pearl farm nearby offers nice prices on a famous export: seawater pearls. Wuzhihou Coral Island features the best scuba diving experience in these parts. Buses run from Sanya City to the island. Dadonghai Beach boasts 3km of dazzling white sand, hugging a crescent-shaped bay, studded with waving palm trees – the iconic tropical paradise image. Hotels of the lower star range are plentiful as are restaurants and bars, which create a lively ambience, especially at night. Yalong Wan (Asian Dragon Bay) is Sanya’s rising star. Its 7km of pristine beachfront, stretching along sparkling blue water, has attracted familiar hotel brand names such as the Hilton, Marriott, Sheraton, Crowne Plaza and Gloria. These players have all ploughed megabucks into high-quality hardware and software to lure the international traveller used to the sophistication of Bali and Phuket, as well as expose the fledgling Chinese tourist to the five-star sanctuary ideal. (See Where to Stay, page 38). More leisure chains are expected to move into the neighbourhood in the months to come. This budding resort area is not without its challenges. Accessibility, not a problem from Chinese cities like Shanghai or Beijing, is limited from visitor-rich Hongkong, which is linked only through China Southern (daily) and Dragonair (twice weekly) flying into Sanya Phoenix Airport. Staffing is another concern, especially now since hotel managers have to contend with increased competition vying for a small pool of local talent. To fill in the gap, hotels have had to scour other parts of China. Christiane Wasfy, Sanya Marriott Resort & Spa general manager, says: “It’s now the responsibility of general managers of five-star hotels to show that tourism promotion can and needs to be done.” Wasfy says theyregularly approach the island’s schools, convincing young people to consider a hotel career. “We take in trainees for a period of six months to a year, and if there is a vacancy, then we offer them the job.” Claudio Nardini, Sheraton Sanya general manager, says they’ve established close ties with Haikou College (Haikou is the capital of Hainan Island), from where they pick promising interns. If these students complete their three-year stint with the hotel, he says Sheraton will pay them back for their schooling, and even offer them a job. With the number of hotels increasing steadily, Wasfy is confident the time will come when graduates realise there’s no need to leave for the Mainland to find greener pastures. “With more job openings, they will see there is an opportunity for growth here.”

WHERE TO STAY

Crowne Plaza Yalong Bay National Resort District, Sanya 572000, Hainan, China, tel 86 898  8855 5888, www.crowneplaza.cn A newcomer to the Yalong Bay hotel clique, this 446-room property features a unique 24-hour  in-room spa service. But for those who can’t keep  away from business, there are executive floors equipped with all the necessary work tools to keep them connected and efficient. A 1,300 square-metre ballroom, 12 function rooms and a boardroom are ideal for events, whether large or intimate. Price: From US$110 with brekkie until April 30. Yalong Bay Mangrove Tree Resort Yalong Bay National Resort District, Sanya 572000, Hainan, China, tel 86 898 8855 8888, www.mangrovetreeresort.com The design conspires to bring guests as near to nature as possible from the no-walls lobby to the showers in the balconies! More than 82% of the 502 guestrooms look out to the Bay. Broadband internet access is free of charge.The Chinese restaurant specialises in hearty Shunde, Chongshan and Hakka cuisine. Price:  From US$185 Gloria Resort Yalong Bay National Resort District Sanya 572000, Hainan, China, tel 86 898 8856 8855, www.gloriaresort.com The property can safely say it blazed the trail for the hospitality industry in Yalong Bay, having operated here since 1996. Refurbishment has injected new life into the 404 guestrooms (some with Japanesestyle seating areas) and suites (which are funky). And the work continues until it touches every corner of this sprawling leisure complex. Price: From US$185. Sheraton Sanya Resort Yalong Bay National Resort District, Sanya, 572000, Hainan, China, tel 86 898 8855 8855, www.sheraton.com/sanya It’s a destination in itself with the range of facilities available such as a Mandara Spa and a 300m stretch of beach, offering water sports activities and team building. Accommodation is luxurious with Deluxe Laguna Rooms featuring water-slides into  private pools, while Diplomatic Suites, measuring 213sqm, come with a 72 square-metre balcony that’s got a decadent soaking tub. Since the Miss World beauty pageant breezed into town in 2003, this 511-room property has served as the contestants’ base.  An entire wall near the café – which general manager Claudio Nardini likes to show off to guests – is dedicated to portraits of previous participants. Price:  From US$191. Hilton Sanya Resort & Spa Yalong Bay National Resort District, Sanya 572000, Hainan, China, tel 86 898 8858 8888, www.hiltonsanya.cn Lots of wow features to look for in this very new kid on the block – the 501-room Hilton, which joined the hotel strip last month. Circular bathtubs, for example, are located in four-point open bathrooms or by the balcony facing the ocean. Dining outlets follow the five elements so dear to Chinese tradition: metal, wood, water, fire and earth, from service. IZE to its two bars La La gardens, Bar and Bar d’Or. More unique features are found in the Spa Retreat, which has spa valets in attendance and an enormous lagoon-style pool. Price:  Until June 30, an introductory price of  US$116.57, including breakfast and upgrade to the next room category is available. Sanya Marriott Resort & Spa Yalong Bay National Resort Districtm, Sanya 572000, Hainan, China, tel 86 898 8856 8888, www.marriotthotels.com A curving lobby, where much of the hotel’s activities takes place, boasts a spectacular view of Yalong Bay in all its azureness. The 456 guestrooms and suites feature a simple yet tropical elegance boosted by the latest technological features. Of its restaurants and one lounge, Indochine is a standout for its savoury Vietnamese selections and attentive service. The new Quan Spa, set in the extensive gardens. is the perfect spot to recharge. Price:  From US$205. Universal Resort Yalong Bay National Resort District, Sanya 572016, tel 86 898 8856 6666, www.universalresort.com.cn If the elephants in the lobby and zebra upholstery  remind you of Sun City in South Africa, you’re not far off the mark. Inspired by a visit to the famous attraction, Universal’s owner adopted the wildlife concept, which also spills onto the guestrooms’carpets and bedstands. A Presidential Villa offers theutmost in exclusivity with seven bedrooms, a kitchen,sitting rooms, a gym and game room. Price:  From US$76 (Superior Room) for FITs.

GETTING THERE

HONGKONG-SANYA China Southern flies daily, departing at 1220 and arriving at 1330. Price: US$588.87 (including taxes) for Business Class return; US$206 (including taxes) for Economy Class return Dragonair flies twice weekly, Friday and Sunday, departing at 0805, arriving at 0940. Price: US$588.87 (including taxes) for Business Class return; US$296.37 (including taxes) for Economy Class return.

BASICS

Don’t leave Hainan Island without trying these four famous dishes: Wenchang Chicken (also known as Hainan Chicken but not the same variety as the Singapore dish of a similar name), Jiaji Duck, Dongshan Mutton and Hele Crab. Be aware of the too-friendly cabbies, who volunteer to chauffeur you throughout your stay. They will often bring you to places which give them commission for your business. The fare from Yalong Bay to Sanya City is from CNY50 to CNY60 (US$5 to US$6), one way. If you really want one of those loud Hawaiian type shirts that most tourists don on their second day, buy it off the street, and not at the department store (as I did) – it’s certainly cheaper. There’s no need to pay airport tax, it’s already incorporated in your air fare.