He’s a world-renowned chef with a world-famous temper. But even Gordon Ramsay melts at the mention of Japanese cuisine. In Tokyo recently to launch a new Sunday lunch menu at his restaurant at the Conrad Hotel, he and Kate Graham chatted about keeping fit despite a tendency in his profession to graze.
OF ALL THE CITIES YOU HAVE BEEN TO, HOW DOES TOKYO RATE FOR FOOD LOVERS?
It’s unfortunate that it took something like the Michelin launch to wake up the sleeping beauty and announce to the world that Tokyo is one of the most sought-after, amazing cities, packed with politeness and full of delicious food.
DID YOU KNOW MUCH ABOUT JAPANESE CUISINE BEFORE YOU CAME HERE?
My first Japanese influence was 10 years ago in Nobu in London. Then, for the last eight years I have been associated with Singapore Airlines and the chef responsible for the Japanese food has an amazing retreat in Kyoto. It is religious. You turn up on time, otherwise the doors are closed, and it is a four-hour ordeal for dinner. It is extraordinary, a fascinating ceremony. The food here is like history on a plate.
HAVE YOU TRIED THE FULL RANGE OF JAPANESE FOOD?
Everything. I am very lucky. Every time I come here I am always in and out of the kitchen. Japanese food is very simple and healthy. Eating small portions four times a day is wonderful. I am at home here.
EVER EATEN ANYTHING HERE THAT HAS SURPRISED YOU?
Whale is extraordinary in a good way, it’s fascinating. I’ve eaten the blubber, meat and sperm, three ways.
WHALE SPERM?
Yes, you’d enjoy it. It’s independently textured, but is a delicacy here. When you think of all the crap you have to put up with whenever you mention whales and yet, I may be killing one soon in Norway.
They have a cull of a thousand because of the disintegration of their fish stocks, and I’m fascinated to go and see. From a chef’s point of view, it is a fascinating story. Here, we are bantering with Greenpeace, and then on the other hand, our depleted stocks of fish because of whale migration. Do you want to come with me?
I AM NOT VERY GOOD ON BOATS. BUT YOU'D REALLY BE THERE WITH HARPOON?
I would be. Whether I’d push that button or not, I don’t know.
HAVE YOU ENJOYED ANY OTHER CULTURAL EXPERIENCES IN JAPAN?
The gardens are extraordinary, in terms of how beautiful they are. And the Tsukiji fish market is amazing. From a chef’s point of view, a footballer would want to go and play at Wembley, I would want to go and camp at the fish market.
There is nowhere near it anywhere else in the world. Impossible to replicate, it is unique and very special.
IS THERE ANYTHING YOU NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT?
Running shoes. I ran recently in the London marathon and in November, I have my first Iron Man. Also, I skip a lot so a Lonsdale skipping rope goes everywhere with me.
Chefs graze. If I didn’t skip and run, I would be the size of a whale. I need to stay energised. I had an amazing run this morning and at 41, I am not sagging anywhere.
ANYWHERE LEFT ON YOUR LIST FOR CULINARY DESTINATIONS?
The one place I am dying to go in South America. There is phenomenal stuff coming out of Brazil. Having lived in Italy and France, South America is the next big place.
ANY TIPS FOR JETLAG?
There is no such thing as jetlag – it is all in the mind. You fall into the synchronisation of that time difference. Every time I land, I run, then I make myself tired so I fall into what is going on. When you are fit, your body clock adapts.
Jet lag is just a way of confirming how unfit you are.
