Features

Flavours of Europe

1 Jul 2005 by business traveller

France-Soir

11 Toorak Road, South Yarra,
tel +61 3 9866 8569
Think of your typical French restaurant experience – an abundance of garlic, strong coffee, overflowing plates of mussels, and charming waiters – double it, and you might come close to a night at this Melbourne institution that's been going since 1986. It's almost impossible to get a table here, even on a Tuesday or Wednesday night, and you feel like you're entering a place where everybody already knows each other. Mind you, there are so many repeat customers here, they quite possibly do.
With their moustaches and slicked back hair, the waiters look so, well, French. And they're so theatrical in their manner – rushing around holding trays up high and flirting outrageously with the women – that you almost expect them to jump onto the bar, whip off their aprons and burst into song. The atmosphere is noisy and buzzy and tables are packed in so close you can't help but get friendly with your neighbours.
All the French staples are here, including snails in garlic butter, moules marinieres, warm goat's cheese and succulent steaks, served up in all shapes, styles and sizes.
I generally treat myself to steak once or twice a year and decided this was the place to do it. I went for the pepper scotch fillet, with French fries of course, and it was cooked to perfection. Accompanied by delicious French bread and topped off with a chocolate mousse, I felt I'd been transported to the streets of Paris. Only when the bill came did I remember where I really was – it was less than half what you'd pay in the French capital!
Prices Main courses around AU$29/$22/£11.80.
Opening hours Open daily for lunch, 12pm-3pm and dinner from 6pm.

Pireaus Blues

310 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, +61 3 9417 0222
Imagine not only working with your wife or husband every day but with their mother too? At this authentic, super-friendly Greek restaurant, it really is a family affair. Two couples, Susie and John Rerakis and Vicki and Les Thomaidis, run the show front of house, while their respective mums (or mums-in-law) busy themselves in the kitchen, wearing flat shoes, aprons and hair nets, rustling up gorgeous Greek specialties from recipes passed down through generations.
Melbourne is home to the second-largest population of Greeks outside Athens and this place has earned a reputation for its authentic Greek dining – none of the smashing plates and stodgy moussaka that you get in some Greek establishments. Half of the diners here are Greek, so you know you're onto a good thing.
"Most of the food here is vegetarian. In fact, we do more of a veggie choice than in a vegetarian restaurant. There is a regular menu but most people go for our daily specials," Susie told me.
I had home-cooked zucchini flowers, stuffed eggplant, and a selection of other specials.  The portions are very generous and, if one of the mums is let loose from the kitchen, she'll be trying to feed you up with more. It's like staying with some long-lost Greek relatives. Make sure you save room for the Hava ice cream, which goes well with the warm baked figs.
Prices Main courses around AU$22/$17/£9.
Opening hours Open daily for lunch 12pm-3.30pm and dinner from 5pm and all day Sunday.

Café di Stasio

31 Fitzroy St, St Kilda, tel +61 3 9525 3999
Working in Ronaldo di Stasio's St Kilda restaurant is not your usual restaurant job. Consistently voted Melbourne's best Italian restaurant, staff regard it an honour to work here and Chef Michael Darmanin has been here for nearly 17 years. 
"In Italy, food and wine is taken seriously and working in this industry is seen as an honourable profession. It's rubbed off here," said manager Mallory Wall, who has been
here for 15 years. The menu doesn't change much either, but there are daily specials to give the many regulars a change. I was tempted by the crayfish omelette special but decided to go for the barramundi gratini, which was rich and smooth.
Outside, beach bums in bikinis and surf shorts were making their way noisily down to the beach, but in here it was executive-style smart and formal, with white linen table cloths, bare walls (except for two masks with lit-up eyes) and a splash of blue paint. Staff were so serious that I felt slightly intimated, but after a glass of di Stasio's own wine, I managed to relax.
Prices Main courses around AU$34/$26/£14.
Opening hours Open daily for lunch, 12pm-3pm and dinner from 6pm.

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